72 dart
- Thread starter Chub380
- Start date
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I would be very proud of her. Check engine timing, a little more advanced than spec's would be good. Then we need to adjust the carb. Proper engine speed, then proper fuel adjust (two small screws in the front).
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
I see the problem - the distributor is on the wrong end of the engine 
Yes, it's possible to crack the ceramic insulator on a new plug when installing it... or it could have been defective to start with. Best way to find out is to idle the engine and short each plug wire to ground - the one that makes no difference is the bad cylinder.
Also, are you sure the firing order is now correct?
Yes, it's possible to crack the ceramic insulator on a new plug when installing it... or it could have been defective to start with. Best way to find out is to idle the engine and short each plug wire to ground - the one that makes no difference is the bad cylinder.
Also, are you sure the firing order is now correct?
Haha on the distributor but I don’t think she needs any more for her first car,when it’s going through the gears is way more snappy than I expected, great tip on the wires I’ll give it a try will It shock me if I pull them off while idling
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
Depends on how hot your ignition is and the insulation of the wires/boot where you are grasping! I prefer to use a cheap pair of plastic pliers (say that fast without spitting!) designed for doing just that. I've been shocked enough times that I am much more leery of high voltages ;)
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You can do an easy, rudimentary test to see if the cylinders are all firing. First, though, do some basics. Make sure the plug wires are in the right firing order. NO 5 and 7 are easy to switch Make sure the timing is OK. Take a quick look at all the plugs
If you can't find the problem, warm it up so it will idle, and get it set up to "best" idle. With engine shut down, remove all plug wires one at a time from the dist, and put them back in "loose". It helps if you have some insulated (non metallic) pliers like a cartridge fuse puller. You can get these at any electrical supplier, or Lowes/ HD. Pull one wire part way out of the dist, with the engine idling, and as you bring it "out" slide a grounding probe into the dist. Use a tach and monitor RPM or LISTEN carefully. Each position, when shorted, should drop RPM equally. If you get a "dead" one you can tell immediately
If you don't have insulated pliers, you can also loosen the dist boots and insert small brads/ pieces of wire/ paper clips down beside each plug wire. Now, start it up and use your grounding probe to simply ground each one in turn.
If you can't find the problem, warm it up so it will idle, and get it set up to "best" idle. With engine shut down, remove all plug wires one at a time from the dist, and put them back in "loose". It helps if you have some insulated (non metallic) pliers like a cartridge fuse puller. You can get these at any electrical supplier, or Lowes/ HD. Pull one wire part way out of the dist, with the engine idling, and as you bring it "out" slide a grounding probe into the dist. Use a tach and monitor RPM or LISTEN carefully. Each position, when shorted, should drop RPM equally. If you get a "dead" one you can tell immediately
If you don't have insulated pliers, you can also loosen the dist boots and insert small brads/ pieces of wire/ paper clips down beside each plug wire. Now, start it up and use your grounding probe to simply ground each one in turn.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Do you know how to set idle mixture/ speed? Set timing first, and best to have tach and or vacuum gauge. With engine fully warm and idling, turn mixture screws out some looking for RPM increase. When none, screw them in carefully until it drops a bit. Then back and forth, in and out, for "peak" RPM or vacuum. You want them screwed in / lean just a tiny bit without substantially lowering RPM.
Some guys like to set final mixture in drive, but this can be dangerous. Block the wheels and use a reliable person LOL foot on the brake.
Some guys like to set final mixture in drive, but this can be dangerous. Block the wheels and use a reliable person LOL foot on the brake.
Another trick is to hook up your timing light as usual, then move it from number one plug wire to all the rest, one at a time. the light won't strobe properly if you have a problem with the ignition on that cylinder. You won't zap yourself using this method. Simple, but effective.
The tips worked great guys got it to be pretty acceptable all around. One crazy thing even stumped my friend who swung by to look at it, so I marked the balancer timing mark with a white paint marker warmed it up took off vac advance and couldn’t see anything with the timing light. Any ideas I did have positive and negative and 1 cylinder hooked up?
The elastomeric piece between the inner and outer ring on the harmonic balancer may have slipped, especially if it's the old stock piece. This will cause timing problems at all RPM's. Put number 1 cylinder at TDC, and check the harmonic balancer for TDC. This will help check the TDC timing. All this is easy to do with basic tools. If you don't have them, ask a friend for help.
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