73 dart not cranking
- Thread starter arfire
- Start date
-
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Review the MAD article.......
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
and the diagram on that page
The ignition switch, the "hot buss" in the fuse panel, and the headlights all get power from the welded splice in the black ammeter wire
If the headlights are good and bright, but the cluster won't come alive "with the key," and won't crank, then it's more likely to be the ignition switch connector or the switch itself.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
and the diagram on that page
The ignition switch, the "hot buss" in the fuse panel, and the headlights all get power from the welded splice in the black ammeter wire
If the headlights are good and bright, but the cluster won't come alive "with the key," and won't crank, then it's more likely to be the ignition switch connector or the switch itself.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK check "coming out" of the ignition switch for power at the yellow start wire
73? Can't remember "might" have the dreaded seat belt interlock, if so the yellow start wire goes through the reset box contacts:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=292463
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969624169
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=14304
If you DO have the interlock, find the two yellow / yellow tracer wires in the reset connector and hook them permanently
"Might be" neutral safety or clutch switch going bad. Identify the NSS wire on the start relay, comes of one of the two small "push on" terminals goes down the firewall to the transmission.
You can disconnect that and clip that relay terminal to ground to test. "BE CAREFUL" it will now start in any gear
"Might" be the starter relay going bad. Can you hear anything click? (quietly) when it won't crank?
Relay clicking "quietly" and no crank, might be bad, otherwise is bad wire to starter or bad starter
One loud "clank" is starter solenoid pulling in, if it's that, then bad battery cable to starter, or bad starter.
73? Can't remember "might" have the dreaded seat belt interlock, if so the yellow start wire goes through the reset box contacts:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=292463
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969624169
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=14304
If you DO have the interlock, find the two yellow / yellow tracer wires in the reset connector and hook them permanently
"Might be" neutral safety or clutch switch going bad. Identify the NSS wire on the start relay, comes of one of the two small "push on" terminals goes down the firewall to the transmission.
You can disconnect that and clip that relay terminal to ground to test. "BE CAREFUL" it will now start in any gear
"Might" be the starter relay going bad. Can you hear anything click? (quietly) when it won't crank?
Relay clicking "quietly" and no crank, might be bad, otherwise is bad wire to starter or bad starter
One loud "clank" is starter solenoid pulling in, if it's that, then bad battery cable to starter, or bad starter.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Get to the ignition switch connector. Map out what power you have going in and going out.
Finally got the schematic.
The yellow wire going to the start relay .showed
12.3 volts .but zeroed out .
Found bulkhead connector had bad connection
Repaired the connection .cranks great
Thanks for your help .
Now to figure why cluster is dead
The yellow wire going to the start relay .showed
12.3 volts .but zeroed out .
Found bulkhead connector had bad connection
Repaired the connection .cranks great
Thanks for your help .
Now to figure why cluster is dead
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Dash if often out from bad ground to body. Many run a dedicated wire from one of the screws.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Common cluster problems:
Ground as noted. Add a separate pigtail, and bolt to the column support, etc
Bad connections at the connector to the PC board. Pins work loose or break. Repair them. Mine were so bad, I went to a pair of "Molex" style connectors
Bad connections at the instrument regulator. On mine, the spring contact fingers were not making connection to the PC board traces, I had to solder jumpers across
On mine, the IVR itself was bad
On mine at least two of the gauge stud nuts were loose / corroded. Replace the "fake" nuts with real ones and loosen / tighten several times to "scrub" the board trace clean.
Repair, clean, replace, the bulb sockets as necessary
Below is where I had to solder jumpers on the IVR socket
The black is an added grounding pigtail, the blue / white is ignition switched 12V supplying the cluster
Ground as noted. Add a separate pigtail, and bolt to the column support, etc
Bad connections at the connector to the PC board. Pins work loose or break. Repair them. Mine were so bad, I went to a pair of "Molex" style connectors
Bad connections at the instrument regulator. On mine, the spring contact fingers were not making connection to the PC board traces, I had to solder jumpers across
On mine, the IVR itself was bad
On mine at least two of the gauge stud nuts were loose / corroded. Replace the "fake" nuts with real ones and loosen / tighten several times to "scrub" the board trace clean.
Repair, clean, replace, the bulb sockets as necessary
Below is where I had to solder jumpers on the IVR socket
The black is an added grounding pigtail, the blue / white is ignition switched 12V supplying the cluster
-
