74 Duster 318Ci Alternator Questions

[360Duster75]

So im trying to find where my issue is on my 74 Duster with not starting. I can jump the car and it starts fine and run fine when disconnected but then it will not start on its own again after about 10mins. The battery is new, voltage regulator is new. It also keeps blowing the number 7 Fuse for domelight and all. I looked at the Alternator incase its not charging and saw the wires look different to me of the wires is solo and the other is 2 wires in one. Which way is the correct way to hook this thing up?

The solo wire is Green and the double wire is blue and green wires. I followed them to the voltage regulator and the 2 double wires are hooking on the to point on top of the connector and the gree wire is on the bottom right.


I am trying to upload pictures but they are not working.

 

[Demonic]

What does your voltmeter say when applied to the battery at idle? New battery, with good cables you shouldn't have a cranking problem.

That fuse also does the brake lights I believe, so that is an issue.

 

[Mattax]

Starting. See demonic's post.

It also keeps blowing the number 7 Fuse for domelight and all.

Look in the owners manual or shop manual to confirm what else is on that fuse.
Fuses blow when there is a short to another or to ground.
Think of current like a stream flowing.
For a fuse to fail, the short must be downstream of the fuse.

Engine off, the flow path for the dome light looks like this:
Battery+ ----->connectors----> main splice ---->fuse---->Dome light ---->splices---->switch in door--body ground.
If the dome light doesn't get power, then the short is before the dome light.
A short after the dome light would turn the light on and not blow a fuse.

I looked at the Alternator incase its not charging and saw the wires look different to me of the wires is solo and the other is 2 wires in one. Which way is the correct way to hook this thing up?

The solo wire is Green and the double wire is blue and green wires. I followed them to the voltage regulator and the 2 double wires are hooking on the to point on top of the connector and the gree wire is on the bottom right.

A big wire with a ring terminal on the alternator's stud is the output wire.
The standard voltage regulator is two wires into a triangular connector.
They control electrical to the rotor. When electricity flows through the rotor windings it creates and magnetic field.
More on how it works in this link
If the solo green wire is factory, then it could be one of the optional high output alternators with three wires to the VR.
We'll need pictures for that.

I am trying to upload pictures but they are not working.

If you're using phone, I can't help.
On computer should be able to drop and drag with the mouse. Or click on the 'upload photos' button and go through your computers file folders to select the photos.

 

[67Dart273]

Mopar VR/ alternator wiring is easy. You have one wire off the VR green only goes one place---to either one of the alternator field terminals. Does not matter which one. That is all that is connected in that wire

The other VR terminal comes from "ignition run" so comes off the feed from the key that feeds the ballast. This also branches off at some point and feeds down to the remaining alternator field. Confirm you have "same as battery" with key in "run" and engine off

To troubleshoot, you need to bypass the VR and confirm wiring is good

Start by leaving key in "run" briefly, and disconnect green field wire in subdued light. Usually you can hear a small spark, and see it in subdued light. With green wire disconnected, measure voltage from the unconnected alternator terminal to ground. Should be same as battery. If so, apply a jumper clip from that terminal to ground, start engine, and slowly bring up RPM. See if it charges.