850 holley ?

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flathead31coupe

flathead31coupe

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my straight axel dart has a harder ride, the 850 holley doesn't seem to like the bouncing around..tends to flood if the road is less that smooth...ideas...float level it good...one sujestion was spring loaded needle and seat like the rock crawlers use as well as a anti slosh tube and jet extenders thoughts?
 
How many leafs do you have? maybe it's just to stiff. Take out every other leaf to soften it up, or try one leaf at a time.
 
brian6pac said:
How many leafs do you have? maybe it's just to stiff. Take out every other leaf to soften it up, or try one leaf at a time.
Click to expand...
it was a axel kit from speedway, with the 440 in it the springs setteled to low so I reached the and got the ride hight back so hoping its settles back down some should be about right,,
 
you might look at parts that 4x4 wheels use to keep the fuel level . we would take the bowl breathers tubes and hose them together with a high ark in the aircleaner and put a tee at the top . on the wheels we would bring that tee up out through the top of the aircleaner lid . buy thats not a good look for a gasser . if it from float bounce we used a lite spring under the float itself to help dampen the bounce .
 
If the spring rate is correct it shouldn't ride that rough.
 
its a gasser , until coilovers n connecting bars came in to tech , straight axles road ruff on buggy springs , transverse or paralleled pair . and were kind a scary at speed . it was all about weight and weight transfer , not ride .
 
That doesn't matter to spring rate, look at torsion bars, you can get .810 dia or you can get 1.03 dia and the ride height is the same. If you have a big stack of leafs the spring rate is high, if you have 3 leafs the spring rate is low and if you put a big arch in them they flatten out more than the thick stack but the ride height is the same. does that make sense.
 
i drive leaf sprung front end every day . but converted this one to c/o and bars

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I was looking at speedways site and the front axle leaf spring kits all use the same 6 leaf 400 lb in spring! Way stiff, A .810 torsion bar is 90 lb in rating.
 
I also added one extra leaf that was a little thicker....I re arched it a little more than it was stock thinking it will settle down to what I like....should I be taking leafs out to get a better ride
 
If you know what the front end weighs you can calculate the spring rate
if you added a leaf I'm sure it's way to stiff, if you have 6 leafs take 2 out and the 1 you added. You can re arch the main and the other 3 to match and It wont change the spring rate only the height. A stock 383 a body t bar is 130 lb in rate. What is your spring rate?
 
thanks , yes its a 64 , oem paint . 383 typewriter auto now , was/6 tw auto , added park to mine . and thats mr dropped tube axle '' phank n dodge , a 60 d100 big window .

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A 440 isn't much heavier than a 383 so your spring weight should be the same or real close to stock 150 lb in max. T bar for road racing are 200 lb in.
 
Well, I'm not sure this will help, but I once took my 750DP equiped 68 Barracuda to a grass rally-cross. It was about 1 minute of shear madness, with the tail whipping this way an that and all the little berms and then the big one in the middle of the back berm, which I hit way to fast and launched the nose into the sky. When it came down it buried the Milodon road-race pan in the dirt, and it was like hitting a brick wall. I put my foot back into it, and streaked across the finish line.
I was only a couple of seconds off the fast time. I didn't come to win but to have a great time. And I did.
When I got to the pits, I noticed a huge cloud of oil-smoke following me, but the engine was idling normally.
It seems the continuous second gear slide at something like 5000 to 7000 rpm for 1 minute, was enough to blow the oil filter off the pad, which sprayed a little oil on the TTIs.
So I fixed that,
and the cracked pan,
and fabricated a belly pan,
and checked the alignment, cuz that was a really hard hit.
But the engine was purring like a kitten.
No jet extensions, no baffles, just the white vent covers, and the HO mechanical Mopar pump.
Man I tell you; grass rally-cross is a blast! Just put it in second and let the 295s have it!
I should mention that nearly every McPherson strut equipped 4-banger that "hit" that back speedbump promptly broke stuff, and landed with the wheels folded under the car.
I should also maybe mention that my street car was only 5 seconds slower than the winning "fully prepped" car; a stripped out Honda with welded doors and stuff. Accord I think it was.
Anyway, I don't know if it helps but my 750DP seems to be able to survive anything,lol.
 
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OO, I just thought of something; My brother in law came to me once with his brandy new Mack conventional semi-tractor, that had a running issue, that nobody seemed to be able to solve. Well I didn't know chit about that truck.But we went for a roadtest,anyway. Well once he got into the higher gears, this truck would go into this bucking mode where the hood would just start to go up and down and rest of the truck too. This was the first year for the Macks to get a RoadRanger transmission. It was the only tranny that could take the 1200 ftlbs that big engine was putting down.
Anyway, it seemed to me to be fuel related cuz empty, that big old motor was barely being taxed. And you know diesels run WFO all the time, only adding fuel for the load. That means his right foot was directly attached to the injector pump,sorta.
So I looked down at his big fat right foot, and low and behold, it was dancing on the pedal! Well the whole cab was dancing except his air-ride suspension seat which was just floating.So the thought came to me; was the foot dancing cuz the cab was dancing, or was the cab dancing cuz the foot was?
So I said take your foot off the gas and put it back on. And the dancing stopped. And then it restarted.
Now I had just converted his 9 speed to a 13 speed by adding a splitter box on the rear. This required shortening the drive shaft.And this behavior only started after the Auxiliary box went on. So the thought occurred to me that the driveshaft was not properly balanced and was shaking the frame which found it's way into the cab, and started his foot a-dancing.
Well my tight-azz B-i-l didn't want to hear that. He was thinking I screwed up. But the A-box was working perfectly and he really loved it. So after a bit, he relented, and sent the D-shaft out again. Sure enough, it was out of balance, and after the rebalance no more shaking. I tell you what, I was his hero for a long time after.

Now I'm not suggesting that your driveshaft is shaking your carb or anything at all like that. But an 850 has pretty big airvalves, so it doesn't take much butterfly action with some combos for the engine to get excited.
I can imagine a big engine,in a light chassis,with a manual trans,and race gears,with a floor-mounted gas-pedal, and a light duty return spring, doing something like that. LOL. I said imagine......
 
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ok so I went to the track yesterday it was hot...along the way the car ran good for about 15 miles temp 190.. in traffic temp got to 195 car dies, 850 dp holley mech fuel pump return line to the tank...pop the hood no fuel press...hold it to the floor it starts runs another 6 miles to the track gate dies again...did the same thing..held to the floor started got me in...when the sun went down, drove all the way home very little issues.. thoughts ideas.... the intake still has the exhaust dross over under the carb non blocked..alum rad hood scoop..air movement under the hood seem good...
 
block that heat raiser cross , carbs getting over heated and boiling the fuel ., maybe . do you have the levels low in the bowls it can be worse . in cold climates the ford hot water carb plate works great to bring the carb to temp . i use the blocked cross over on my 383 with a rpm and carter . helped that package . still employ gaskets and separator plates under the carb to help stop the heat transfer .
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noticed that when running iam at 6# fuel press was told 4-5 is ideal... also ? if my return line is working how do I have press on the gauge after I shut it off...I would think it would return to the tank....also has any heard the you can take a hand held vacuum pump and put on the of the pump it should hold vac if the pump is good? also car never runs above 200 - 212 with a 16 # cap
 
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I was just thinking what AJ said (is it up hill tank to pump) is it up hill from your house to the track? Maybe the stance of the car and going up hill would make it worse, going home down hill would be good.
 
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