A/C Leak Inside on Passenger Floor?

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FrankReal66

FrankReal66

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Hey guys, I picked my beautiful and blue 1966 barracuda about a year ago a bit north in Fl and let me just say i could not be happier about making that trip.

Now down to the problem before i get carried away...

The previous owner could not tell me much about the car except for pretty much what you can see. It has the original dealer installed A/C unit from when it was sold, or so that is what i was told from the previous owner, and it does work which i find awesome.

Now every time i use it, i get a leak on the passenger side from the main center black box. It does not leak immediately when put to use but within half an hour it will begin to leak. Steady cold droplets. When the car shuts off, or the AC is turned off, it pours down and soaks everything. It leaks for a while after its shut off.

i posted a picture so you guys can have a look...
2016-05-19 18.37.28.jpg

it leaks from that circled outlet i guess i could call it...

I have no idea what to do but possibly run a hose from the leak point run it behind the carpet and cut a whole on the floor, but that seems to extreme and i definitely do not want to do that and tamper with the car.

Any ideas what i can be? how to fix?

Thanks guys and gals.
 
That's about the best solution unless you make another drain closer to the firewall and plug that one. I get a puddle behind the minivan rear tire when the ac has been running. Strange it was put there unless the factory hose is missing. The condenser is sweating.
 
That looks like a dealer installed under-dash AC unit. I'll bet that the nipple that is dripping should be connected to a short rubber hose and through a new drilled hole in the floor. Show us some more photos from a little further away of the unit.
 
Take care of it before it rusts out the floor under your carpet. I bet it's already started
 
Quick help haha! Thanks for all the replies guys, and i know it had to be with the condenser sweating and leaking @pishta ... but boy that thing leaks! And i generally keep a shammy or a towel before it reaches the carpet but man it soaks it all and the towels end up looking like they fell in a pool. Shes a super clean and 98% rust free car and i always check under the carpets.

And it is an undermounted unit @68gtxman , heres some more of those pics you asked for! this was one i had before but if you guys need to see anything specific let me know! She sits under a roof, and covered in my back yard :)
20160519_175715.jpg
 
Man that radio is ugly. and its pointless there since i have an aftermarket one inside the glovebox and i have the original AM(unsure if working) which the previous owner gave to me.. just havent had the time to get around it and switch it out even it is just for looks.
 
yeah it sure looks like a knee knocker add on a/c unit. Original installer should have plumbed/routed its condensate drain out of the cabin. Would be nice to have a less obvious location for it.
Approx' 1/2 inch ID rubber hose might req' a 3/4 diameter hole. Optimal cutter for a hole that large through the sheet metal floor would be a hole saw. Just set the pilot drill short so it doesn't enter the trans.
There is a way to doctor the exit end of that drain tube. This takes advantage of the air flow under the moving vehicle to create a draw/vacuum of sorts. Not rocket science to do, just difficult to describe.
Also, If major flow occurs only after the unit is stopped I would suspect coil icing. Just a slight amount of refrigerant lost or under charge is the most common cause. There again, , "Lack of freon causes ice ?" That sounds a little closer to rocket science I guess. Refriderant pressure equals temperature ( range between those values varies with refridgerant type ). With gauges one would add refridgerant until low side pressure is 34 to 38 p.s.i. Icing doesn't occur.
Then again, our vintage vehicle cabins were far from air tight. Ambient moisture entering the cabin varies with location. Florida you say ? Yeah buddy, you could end a drought with that thing, even with proper refrigerant charge. Lots of humidity onboard LOL
The very similar system I had in our first 67 fish would toss snow flakes out the vents.
 
RedFish said:
yeah it sure looks like a knee knocker add on a/c unit. Original installer should have plumbed/routed its condensate drain out of the cabin. Would be nice to have a less obvious location for it.
Approx' 1/2 inch ID rubber hose might req' a 3/4 diameter hole. Optimal cutter for a hole that large through the sheet metal floor would be a hole saw. Just set the pilot drill short so it doesn't enter the trans.
There is a way to doctor the exit end of that drain tube. This takes advantage of the air flow under the moving vehicle to create a draw/vacuum of sorts. Not rocket science to do, just difficult to describe.
Also, If major flow occurs only after the unit is stopped I would suspect coil icing. Just a slight amount of refrigerant lost or under charge is the most common cause. There again, , "Lack of freon causes ice ?" That sounds a little closer to rocket science I guess. Refriderant pressure equals temperature ( range between those values varies with refridgerant type ). With gauges one would add refridgerant until low side pressure is 34 to 38 p.s.i. Icing doesn't occur.
Then again, our vintage vehicle cabins were far from air tight. Ambient moisture entering the cabin varies with location. Florida you say ? Yeah buddy, you could end a drought with that thing, even with proper refrigerant charge. Lots of humidity onboard LOL
The very similar system I had in our first 67 fish would toss snow flakes out the vents.
Click to expand...

This is awesome! Thanks for all the help! When properly charged this little unit really beats the heat here in Florida! Doesn't freeze me to death (unless its raining) but it definitely keeps me cool and from sweating. Ive got the gauges and i have to add more freon. The cold does seep slowly away but its takes a long while before i notice.. then again it is 50 years old... only so much i can ask for it lol.
 
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Yes! You guys are right on! The evaporator sweats and has to have a drain. Mine in my 70 Swinger is a dealer installed unit and has a hose hooked to the nipple you photo'd and drains through the floor. I wish the car was handy. I would snap a picture. And yes, be careful not to drill into the transmission. tmm
 
toolmanmike said:
Yes! You guys are right on! The evaporator sweats and has to have a drain. Mine in my 70 Swinger is a dealer installed unit and has a hose hooked to the nipple you photo'd and drains through the floor. I wish the car was handy. I would snap a picture. And yes, be careful not to drill into the transmission. tmm
Click to expand...

Oh boy a picture wouldve helped! But then again thanks for the help! ill be sure to steer clear from the Tranny haha.
 
the condensate drain on our darts under dash a/c unit go straight down and through the floor via rubber hose. drill a hole and put a hose on it. problem solved.
 
The fact that a lot of water is draining out of the condensate connection is a good thing. The A/C unit is doing its job. However, the open inlet to the fan needs some kind of guard. Put a firm screen with maybe a 3/8" mesh over the inlet on each side of the fan so little fingers or toes don't wander in. OSHA would approve.
 
Pics above lend to my "less obvious location" comment. To go farther forward under the dash will require a offset drill motor.
You don't really need 2 drains either ( if your case has both L and R ). I tied the 2 together to dump through 1 hole right side.
 
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