A little help here? Smallblock build

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The best build with what you got:

Use the 360 short block. Recondition the rods with new bolts, get 9.2-9.5 pistons (sealed power or KB), your comp 268 cam with a set of Rhoades lifters (better fuel economy), 340 heads (fresh valve job with hardened seats and 2.02" intakes), the 340 intake and thermoquad. Buy a refresh kit from Mancini Racing with rings, rod bearings, main bearings, and gasket kit for $200.

Refresh kit with rings, rod & main bearings, and gasket kit:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sealedpowerkit.html


Or you can do the "C" klt for $420 and get a few extras;

C-KIT Includes:

-Sealed Power Rod bearings

-Sealed Power Main bearings

-Sealed Power Cam Bearings

-Freeze Plugs

-Melling Oil Pump

-Felpro Gasket Set

-Sealed Power Rings (Moly)

-Sterling Pistons (Cast)

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sealpowkitc.html



To learn how Rhoades lifters will work and give you better fuel economy, and more low end and mid range torque and power without sacrificing top end (part # 2018 ) read the second article here:

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Articles.html


That is using as many parts as you can pick from what you already have and build a good engine for cheap.


If you want a little better economy with a little less power, use the stock 340 cam if it is still good and Rhoades lifters.

For BEST fuel economy, use the stock 360 cam with a set of Rhoades lifters.


But I would run the Comp 268 cam myself with rhoades lifters for what you are doing.


If you want economy, use a 3.23 or 2.76 gear.
 
1970H497337[/SIZE]]No you missed the point entirely, and that makes you the jackass. REBUILD THE 360 is what I said earlier, but you missed that. So now I'M tired of explaining it

So let's not bullshit each other. A 7.5:1 318 is not gonna beat any decent running 340, either. Not.......going.....to......happen

Oh, n, yeah, fer yer edification, I just yanked a running 318 out of mine. So, been there done that.
Here, Here, Here!!!! Don't let your undies get in a bundle. NO name calling, play nice. 360's and 340's are better options than 318's, but that does not mean 318's are not a good option! Everytime someone wants to build a 318, they get told to buy a 360/340. So, I thought I would recommend a 318 to someone trying to build a 340....
 
360's and 340's are better options than 318's, but that does not mean 318's are not a good option! Everytime someone wants to build a 318, they get told to buy a 360/340. So, I thought I would recommend a 318 to someone trying to build a 340....


Yes, 318's can be made into good runners. I ran one for over 7 years and had 500,000 miles on it when I finally retired it (2 "refreshes"). Great daily driver, fun to drive, and 17.75 MPG highway.
 
Thank you for all the ideas. Unfortunately the Milodon oil pan and related parts cost me $6-8 bills. I promise nobody will give me more than 1/2 even though it sits unused new in original pkgs. hence the not throwing away good money after bad comment. I did gain some useful knowledge though. I now know and have confirmed you can buy a 3.58 stroke crank with 340 mains for $350ish. I will sell both my stock cranks, to pick up a portion of that tab. I will have both the J and magnum heads mag'ed and checked out. The heads offering best bang for buck vs money spent on appropriate pistons, reconditioning and potential intake purchase, will become the winning heads. Guessing it will be the J's but who knows. Cost of an intake or 2.02 valves? Should be an interesting study. Keeping my cam and TQ, and headers. Thanks for ALL of the input.
 
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