Align hone

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it is a better money spent on a quality aftermarket rod than to resize any.
always align hone when using studs on the mains if removing bolts. fyi ive ran bolts to 850hp and held fine at 8800rpms in a big and small chevy with big compression 15:1+
 
famous bob said:
Why don't u put the main caps on a torque them, (9NO CRANK) , then feel the parting lines w/ ur fingers, if their perfectly smooth w/ no ridges, I would run it if under 700 h.p.
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Because they've never matched up after screwing the studs in. The shoulders on the studs differ from stock bolts.
Ive had rod bolts hammeres in that kept a couple rod caps lining up, but mostly ...they don't.
 
yes sometimes
but the bores distort in roundness, sides pull in etc
if your align bore customer put the studs in without bottom tap they can be all screwed up
I put a bb in the hole before torqueing the stud down
tightening down a stud into the wedge at the bottom of the hole can split the block or at least distorts it
 
Wyrmrider said:
yes sometimes
but the bores distort in roundness, sides pull in etc
if your align bore customer put the studs in without bottom tap they can be all screwed up
I put a bb in the hole before torqueing the stud down
tightening down a stud into the wedge at the bottom of the hole can split the block or at least distorts it
Click to expand...
I thought you were never supposed to torque studs down. You thread them in lightly, securing them with loctite, you torque the nuts. I don't remember where I got that, possibly from ARP website or ARP literature.
 
turbofreek said:
it is a better money spent on a quality aftermarket rod than to resize any.
always align hone when using studs on the mains if removing bolts. fyi ive ran bolts to 850hp and held fine at 8800rpms in a big and small chevy with big compression 15:1+
Click to expand...

I was referring to aftermarket rods - any mid price point brand which is where my customers land in most cases.

I don't build by feel... Every time I've installed better bolts/studs - rod or main - the bores are distorted after as verified by measuring. If others' didn't I'd question if they measured first, then say it was dumb luck as a fallback...lol.
 
torque them down very lightly is what I should have said, just enough to put some pressure on the threads
problem with loctite is that you have it on the compression side of the thread and sometimes it allows the stud to move if you do not put the caps on and torque down immediately
mopar nails it
measure before and after torquing the new bolts down 3 times with the correct lube or measuring stretch and noting what the torque is at mfg recommended stretch
 
Wyrmrider said:
torque them down very lightly is what I should have said, just enough to put some pressure on the threads
problem with loctite is that you have it on the compression side of the thread and sometimes it allows the stud to move if you do not put the caps on and torque down immediately
mopar nails it
measure before and after torquing the new bolts down 3 times with the correct lube or measuring stretch and noting what the torque is at mfg recommended stretch
Click to expand...
ok, we're in agreement then.
 
Wyrmrider said:
yes sometimes
but the bores distort in roundness, sides pull in etc
if your align bore customer put the studs in without bottom tap they can be all screwed up
I put a bb in the hole before torqueing the stud down
tightening down a stud into the wedge at the bottom of the hole can split the block or at least distorts it
Click to expand...
BB in the hole... that is a new one. Seems logical...
 
If you use loctite the bb in the hole squeezes it thin on the pressure side when you snug down the stud
and remember when I said "torque the studs" in the block LIGHTLY, just enough to compress the loctite
 
Wyrmrider said:
If you use loctite the bb in the hole squeezes it thin on the pressure side when you snug down the stud
and remember when I said "torque the studs" in the block LIGHTLY, just enough to compress the loctite
Click to expand...
My ARP studs had directions that said to lightly oil them and screw them in hand tite, after bottom tapping the tread holes. (BIL JENKINS SAID THE SAME THING) The studs usually have larger diameter shafts and can move the main caps one way or another, need to check or just have them LINE HONED.
 
famous bob said:
My ARP studs had directions that said to lightly oil them and screw them in hand tite, after bottom tapping the tread holes. (BIL JENKINS SAID THE SAME THING) The studs usually have larger diameter shafts and can move the main caps one way or another, need to check or just have them LINE HONED.
Click to expand...
if the studs are moving the caps left or right because the stud shafts are interfering with the cap's bolt holes, I'd be more inclined to clearance the cap holes, first, than just align hone a moved-over cap, first.
 
I do not like to screw into the bottom of even a "bottom tapped" hole
bottom taps vary
if you tighten up the cap / block registers you most certainly will have to line bore or alignhone if you are lucky
you do not want to put it together with loose caps
I usually do not use loctite unless customer insists
 
rustycowll69 said:
if the studs are moving the caps left or right because the stud shafts are interfering with the cap's bolt holes, I'd be more inclined to clearance the cap holes, first, than just align hone a moved-over cap, first.
Click to expand...
cant move left or right because of the block, but can move fore and aft . If its off far enough that they wont go into the block, I would enlarge the holes and have them align honed for sure.
Or better yet , let ur machinist do it, and double check him.
 
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