Alternator wiring

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Ironmike

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My 71 Demon has 3 wire connections and was hoping someone could help me .
Of course the main hot post, then there are 2 smaller spade connections. I THINK one goes to my voltage regulator. The other one, I have no idea what it's for.
I no longer have a ballast resistor or the factory ignition box.

Wondering if anyone knows what exactly the spade connectors go to.....and if I could eliminate either one, or both.

Electrical is like bodywork to me. Not my thing for sure.
 
One spade goes to the voltage regulator, the other to the ballast resistor...
 
Thanks, kuda. I guess I certainly don't need that 3rd wire plugged in then. No more ballast resistor.

There's actually 2 wires connected to the regulator spade. Does that sound right?
 
"There's actually 2 wires connected to the regulator spade. Does that sound right?"

Not originally

One of two spades, does not matter which, goes to switched 12V "run" ignition power

The remaining goes to green which goes to the VR. Then the VR power also goes to same place as the first spade, that is, 12V switched power

That switched 'run' power comes out of the bulkhead connector, and went originally to the ballast. Somewhere in that harness, it branched off and fed the alternator field, the VR power, and depending on year, some smog du-dads
 
Agree that's not how it was originally done.
But it could be routed that way. It doesn't matter as long as its connected well.
The blue dot represents the spliced connection, which could have had a couple more wires but they are not important for your question.
upload_2019-3-3_21-50-48.png


If this is what was done, it will work the same. (as long as the connections are good and the wires not too long)
upload_2019-3-3_21-58-42.png
 
Agree that's not how it was originally done.
But it could be routed that way. It doesn't matter as long as its connected well.
The blue dot represents the spliced connection, which could have had a couple more wires but they are not important for your question.
View attachment 1715298085

If this is what was done, it will work the same. (as long as the connections are good and the wires not too long)
View attachment 1715298100
I get the feeling pic number 2 is what I'm dealing with. I got the car in 2008 and all this was done already.
I'd like to know for sure but don't want to hack in to my harness. It's all still fairly tidy.

How do guys convert to 1 wire alternators?
 
The problem with one wire is that you need a huge charging cable because it is the sense wire. Any voltage drop on the charge wire causes problems. Basically "it's one wire". You run a wire (with circuit breaker or fuse/ fuse link) to the battery.
 
I no longer have a ballast resistor or the factory ignition box.

I'd like to know for sure but don't want to hack in to my harness. It's all still fairly tidy.
One thing you can do is check if the terminals are all connected together by the wires. In other words do some continuity checks. Do you have multi-meter or test light?

Another thing that would be very helpful is to make a sketch like above of the wires you're checking. Then mark it up as you're working.

In addition to checking for continuity, visually look for similarities and differences with an unaltered '71 Plymouth A-body wiring.
Look at the diagram in the '71 Plymouth Service manual and note color, wire size and cavity the ignition in the bulkhead connector.
The ones you care most about are:
Ignition 1, this is powered when the key is in RUN and usually dark blue.
Ignition 2, this is powered only when the key is in START and often is brown.

Then look at the connections on the car, its usually obvious when people make alterations or even repairs because the connecting terminals don't look like the factory ones.
For example, on my '67.
Connector on left is original, on right is a replacement.
upload_2019-3-4_9-39-6.png


Original terminal (removed from connector)
upload_2019-3-4_9-42-14.png


Replacement (but this style terminal may have been factory for '71)
upload_2019-3-4_9-44-52.png


When you see wire terminals like shown below you know its been altered or repaired.
upload_2019-3-4_9-54-26.png


Colors and wire sizes sometimes are different too. Mark up your sketch to what ever you find. Use the meter to see which ones connect together. Hopefully that makes sense.

* '71 would have been early for a factory ignition box.
But what does it now use for ignition? If there's no box, then its either points or an amplifier on the distributor like can be done with Pertronix or HEI.
Points will have one wire off the distributor, the others will have at least two.

Power for the ignition in Start somehow has been tied to the power for ignition in Run. Originally this was done at the ballast resistor, so see if you can find where that wire was moved.

You can use this to begin. Add the rest of the info such as where those wires are on the bulkhead connectors. Then see if they are there on the car..
upload_2019-3-4_9-16-32.png


Based on what you've written, these are the wire connections in question.
upload_2019-3-4_9-22-56.png
 
Last edited:
I think those type fit some of the newer Mopar connector housings, but generally, you need the kind that curls in from the sides

upload_2019-3-4_9-44-52-png.png


My 67 originally used all this style, and the type above will not fit the housings

upload_2019-3-4_9-42-14-png.png
 
I think those type fit some of the newer Mopar connector housings, but generally, you need the kind that curls in from the sides

View attachment 1715298326

My 67 originally used all this style, and the type above will not fit the housings

View attachment 1715298327
Lots of help! Pic 2 above is exactly what's on the spade connector closest to the main "hot" post on my alt. Same colors too.
I'm running a FAST box with 2 step and MSD distrib and coil. Factory stuff loooooong gone. Although I still have it all, somewhere.
20190305_002207.jpg
20190305_002219.jpg
 
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