Aluminum or steel mid plate with trans shield?

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max512wedge

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OK, Here goes I’m running Big block Victor heads in a 72 duster. I have to run an engine plate so I bought a aluminum one from ARenginering to raise the engine about 1/2 an inch or more so I can make it clear the torsion bar do to my TTI headers. So what would you use aluminum or steel for the mid plate. When I raise the engine what trans shield would fit in this tighter area now do to raising it? Also do I use spacers etc….? To mount the converter to the flex plate do to the thicker aluminum one. Thanks guys in advance. PS. Pictures of mid plates mounted holding transmission in place would be appreciated.
 
I have just standard port trickflows & 2-1/8 tti headers.
Here is a photo of my mid plate after trimming for the headers. It is .090 steel from competition engineering also it was made for a centered driveline. I also had to trim the firewall up 2 inches from the original hump to clear my flex plate shield and had to cut the pinch weld at the lower part of firewall.
FYI the passenger side is cut even farther into the mid plate. I will be adding some extra metal to strengthen these areas. Also I made it that shape before I put it in and test fit so I messed it up a little

IMG_20240331_195331806.jpg


IMG_20240331_192757004.jpg
 
There was about 3/4 of an inch from stock location on the bell of the trans to the firewall.
Spacer should come with mid plate.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I have just standard port trickflows & 2-1/8 tti headers.
Here is a photo of my mid plate after trimming for the headers. It is .090 steel from competition engineering also it was made for a centered driveline. I also had to trim the firewall up 2 inches from the original hump to clear my flex plate shield and had to cut the pinch weld at the lower part of firewall.
FYI the passenger side is cut even farther into the mid plate. I will be adding some extra metal to strengthen these areas. Also I made it that shape before I put it in and test fit so I messed it up a little

View attachment 1716230569

View attachment 1716230575
Click to expand...
Is there enough material on the outside edges to move it from one side or to the other about a 1/2 inch as I was told I may have to move it sideways also to clear it.
 
max512wedge said:
Is there enough material on the outside edges to move it from one side or to the other about a 1/2 inch as I was told I may have to move it sideways also to clear it.
Click to expand...
I used a mock up block and transmission to figure out where it went. I had to notch the passenger side about 1 inch and I welded that piece I cut off to the other side.
 
Congrats on using the AR front plate. I made my own elephant ears, but if I was doing it again, I'd definitely use the AR.
I used a 3/16 steel mid plate too, but I had a glide with a brake, and a custom converter to use with the mid plate.
The composite trans shields are nice..... but you might have to wait a couple years for one. Other than that, you're probably stuck with a blanket.... or tunnel mods.
 
The only car I’ve ever had a mid plate in was my 91 Daytona chassis car. A mid plate has a few benefits and causes a few issues. With a powerglide car I think it makes it easier as far as shimming the converter because we shim every new setup.
 
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