Another edelbrock carb question!

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So I advance my distributor only 2 degrees and the started did the kick back thing so I set it back to 16. Then I set my idle mixture screws to where I get highest vacuum (turns out they were out way to far, about 3 1/2 turns). I drove it around and all felt well then I changed the step up springs to the pinks and it feels great and responsive but before I even messed with it I drive to my buddies house and the idle was jumping around. It would idle real low around 500 then go up to around 800 then back down etc. does that sound like it could be a vacuum leak? And Moper, it's no so much the smell that bothers me but it loading up. Thanks so far for all your guys input! -kory
 
So - does it "hunt" for an idle speed after you made the changes, or it did it before? Not sure I read that clearly...
What PCV valve do you have? What ignition and distributor is being used?
 
Before I started it yesterday I changed the squirters back to normal and then drove to my buddies and that's when I noticed the idle and "hunting" for an idle is a great way to describe it. Then I tried the timing and idle mixture screws but the timing didn't work out so I put it back. My distributor is a stock unit with the pertronix set up, and I'm also running a digital 6 msd box. The PCV valve is just a basic style kind, I never knew there were different kinds.
 
On the disctributor - is the vacuum advance hooked up?
if it is: take a 7/32 allen wrench, remove the vacuum hose form the nipple of the distributor's can and stick the long side of wrench inside. You should feel it engage a hex down in the can. Turn it counter-clockwise 2 turns, and then reconnect and see if it still does it.
If it's not: remove the ignition cap and with a light look down under the advance plate (metal plate in the dsitributor) at the springs and weights. You may not see them well or at all depending on where the engine stopped turning.. but if they are grungy or rusty, you should remove the distributor, take it all apart and clean/lightly grease the advance weights and pivots. You may als want to look into the Mr. Gasket light advance weight package. It's the best $6 you'll spend on the car.
 
I actually already swapped in those mr. Gasket springs and it took away an off idle bog. But as soon as I get home I will try that with the vacuum advance. What will that do?
 
So turns out the weird idle was coming from a bad cap. Swapped it out and runs great. But the only area now I find scratching my head about is the transition plate! It takes off great off the line. But if I'm cruising in 3rd and drop to 1st, the power hits rights away with no bog but it doesn't really start to pick up until around 3000 rpm! My only thought is that the weighted plate isn't opening fast enough. I've heard of guys drilling out a little weight to make em open faster, any of you guys ever try that? And if so, did it work for you?
 
Yes - I've done it. It tends to be a trial and error thing and if you go too far you're screwed. How much and where you remove from the weights make a difference in how the plate reacts.
 
Keep in mind if you lighten the weights to make it open faster when you hit the gas at high revs, it might be too quick for when you floor it from a stop (which matters a lot more if you're drag racing) and cause a bog

EDIT: Your comment about the bad cap had me thinking I might have the same thing going on in my car, the idle is smooth but always "hunts" a bit no matter how much I mess with the mixture screws.
 
Because of the shape of the weight (and the placement of the mass as a result) the door is harder to start openiong than to continue opening once it's started. The weight basically looks like a "J" with the top of the J being a pointed, a narrow area, and the curve being the thickest part. If you remove from the tip of the "J" it will open earlier and a slightly faster opening rate. If you remove from the curve it will open at a faster opening rate but not necessarilly any earlier. I did it on my plow truck and a couple cars that I ran AFBs on and it was enough that I believed I could feel it. But that's using the butt dyno so who really knows. I'm sure it did something - I removed weight... but I can't say it was a night-and-day difference or anything because we're talking small amounts. Like 1/8" off the very center of the curve, or some off the "tip".
 
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