Another Mopar Off My Bucket List - Barracuda Fastback

-
With the plates tacked in place for the motor mounts I went ahead and made some brackets for a radiator. I'd picked up the radiator at a swap meet awhile back for $20 and wasn't sure I'd ever find a use for it but couldn't pass it up for that price.
Starting to look respectable,on mock up John....
It may seem out of place to run a cooling system on a funnycar but this will be more of an econo-funny.

View attachment 1714955322 View attachment 1714955323
 
How much is a (used) tube bender? Steel tubing must be possible to get in long lengths at much lower prices from non-auto part suppliers.

I haven't searched for used benders but I was tempted to buy one of those new cheap ones at Harbor Freight. I did read reviews on those it seems that owners tend to name them 'pipe crushers'. I'll start checking around for a better bender but unless I can find a cheap source for pipe soon I'll go ahead and grab my ankles.
 
Last edited:
Hell yes! Had 273 adjustable rockers,on my 408. Swapped to the Comp adjustment locknut\adjustment bolt,(hardened,to match the high zoot pushrods..),tapped to clean the pinch thread,in the rockers.Wd-40,wouldn't touch it,went with actual cutting oil.Holy Shnikes,what a difference.

I guess we're both believers now bomber. I'd always thought that all cutting fluid did was to help keep the bits cool so you wouldn't burn them.
 
Last edited:
The only decent pipe benders I found in the area would have cost me a few thousand dollars. I couldn't justify that kind of expenditure so I went ahead and ordered the tubing from JEGS. The zoomie tube header kit I already have has 2&1/2" tubes. That's what I figured I'd go with.

When I started looking over the pathway the exhaust needed to make to exit the chassis I saw that my motor mounts were going to be in the way. I could do it but the pipes for the front two cylinders were going to need large divots in them. Upon further examination I realized that the exhaust ports on the heads were closer to 2&1/4".

By downsizing the tubes I'd gain more clearance and save a bit on cost. The total tubing cost is now down around $200. It's still not cheap but it's far less than what I priced before. I'm expecting the pipe to show up before this weekend. It'd be nice to have a tig but we'll see how well I can do with a mig.

I really need to bite the bullet and order the transmission adapter soon. Without the transmission in place I can't really plan out the seating or any interior panels.

I suppose I could turn my attention back to body repairs. I'd gotten it rigid enough to do other work and was hoping on having access to a rotisserie before I went further. My buddy that ordered one should have it this week but I don't know how long it'll be before I'm able to use it.
 
I haven't searched for used benders but I was tempted to buy one of those new cheap ones at Harbor Freight. I did read reviews on those it seems that owners tend to name them 'pipe crushers'. I'll start checking around for a better bender but unless I can find a cheap source for pipe soon I'll go ahead and grab my ankles.
Yep,Harbor's pipe bender is fair,those dies are awful. Muffler shop people that I work &b.s.ed with,dealt with Allied Exhaust wholesalers.. They cover most of Western states,check it out ...
Just saw,you ordered Jeg's.... If it's Heart throb exhaust,it's usually got really nice bends....
 
The tubing should be here tomorrow according to the tracking numbers. Today I spent time modifying the body's inner structure. Due to the damage from the vandalism I've struggled to get the body back in the correct shape. One of the adjustments that needed to be made was the width of the body behind the front wheel openings. It was too narrow. I cut the braces underneath and lengthened them about 2" per side which added 4" to the body width. Then I added in an additional cross brace for strength.

One of the reasons I kept my focus on the body structure was that I was going to have to make sure the headers I'll be making will clear everything - so I'd better have stuff like body width correct.

I'm taking on the fiberglass work a little at a time. Between the dust and the fumes I'm limiting how much I expose my sinuses to until they totally settle down.

IMG_7335.JPG

IMG_7336.JPG


IMG_7337.JPG


IMG_7338.JPG


IMG_7339.JPG
 
Yep,Harbor's pipe bender is fair,those dies are awful. Muffler shop people that I work &b.s.ed with,dealt with Allied Exhaust wholesalers.. They cover most of Western states,check it out ...
Just saw,you ordered Jeg's.... If it's Heart throb exhaust,it's usually got really nice bends....


If the pipe from JEGS looks as good as the pictures I should be satisfied with it. The zoomies should be simple enough to make. I'll just have to be careful on measurements. If the 90' bends aren't ideal, I'll notch them with a cut off wheel and either add or subtract angle.

As much as I'd like a tubing bender I don't really have room in the garage the way it is now. - I'd rather invest in parts than equipment also.
 
Last edited:
The only decent pipe benders I found in the area would have cost me a few thousand dollars. I couldn't justify that kind of expenditure so I went ahead and ordered the tubing from JEGS. The zoomie tube header kit I already have has 2&1/2" tubes. That's what I figured I'd go with.

When I started looking over the pathway the exhaust needed to make to exit the chassis I saw that my motor mounts were going to be in the way. I could do it but the pipes for the front two cylinders were going to need large divots in them. Upon further examination I realized that the exhaust ports on the heads were closer to 2&1/4".

By downsizing the tubes I'd gain more clearance and save a bit on cost. The total tubing cost is now down around $200. It's still not cheap but it's far less than what I priced before. I'm expecting the pipe to show up before this weekend. It'd be nice to have a tig but we'll see how well I can do with a mig.

I really need to bite the bullet and order the transmission adapter soon. Without the transmission in place I can't really plan out the seating or any interior panels.

I suppose I could turn my attention back to body repairs. I'd gotten it rigid enough to do other work and was hoping on having access to a rotisserie before I went further. My buddy that ordered one should have it this week but I don't know how long it'll be before I'm able to use it.
Lemon's headers (badass work,you pay for it!$!$!$!$) ,is local.Just to build a stepped head of Rat oddball swap stepped headers,wa well ov
If the pipe from JEGS looks as good as the pictures I should be satisfied with it. The zoomies should be simple enough to make. I'll just have to be careful on measurements. If the 90' bends aren't ideal, I'll notch them with a cut off wheel and either add or subtract angle.

As much as I'd like a tubing bender I don't really have room in the garage the way it is now. - I'd rather invest in parts than equipment also.
That's ,a really good point... The speed shop I worked for,has dormant milling machines,that weigh near two tons,& a Mandrel tubing bender(manual!) for doing rollcages,yet still orders (situations, like yours...) pre mandrel exhaust bends...He has SOOO much stuff,in a two bay shop... The milling machine,is almost the size of a subcompact car....
 
That's ,a really good point... The speed shop I worked for,has dormant milling machines,that weigh near two tons,& a Mandrel tubing bender(manual!) for doing rollcages,yet still orders (situations, like yours...) pre mandrel exhaust bends...He has SOOO much stuff,in a two bay shop... The milling machine,is almost the size of a subcompact car....

I'm almost always working in the driveway because of lack of room inside. When I bought the parts washer awhile back I never even bothered to put it in the garage. It's still sitting outside. I was glad to get the Hemi mounted in the chassis so I didn't have it on the engine stand anymore. I'm trying to swing a deal with a guy in Omaha that wants the 512. If he buys it I'll gain a bit more space again.
 
Last edited:
I know you got the Fuelie B body back,you stated it "was lazy" ,witch implies "fat,or no aggressive timing curve/or timing dwell" to my archaic butt. Any self learning improvement,with driving it...?
(Loved that buddie's '62 'Vette convertible...Miss,my California ragtops...)
 
I know you got the Fuelie B body back,you stated it "was lazy" ,witch implies "fat,or no aggressive timing curve/or timing dwell" to my archaic butt. Any self learning improvement,with driving it...?
(Loved that buddie's '62 'Vette convertible...Miss,my California ragtops...)


I've been holding off making adjustments to the Roadrunner until my son comes back to the state. I want him to check it out before I start tinkering.

One thing that I do need to tackle is the instrument panel again. Awhile back I swapped out the Roadrunner cluster with the one for the Charger because of problems. I'd put some white faced overlays on those Charger gauges because the original paint was flaking. It looked alright but when we got it back from Grand Island I noticed that the speedometer overlay was wrinkling. I suppose the paint underneath must have continued flaking and that caused it.

I ordered a new set of overlays again and they showed up today. I'll have to pull the dash apart and re-do it.
 
Last edited:
I've been holding off making adjustments to the Roadrunner until my son comes back to the state. I want him to check it out before I start tinkering.

One thing that I do need to tackle is the instrument panel again. Awhile back I swapped out the Roadrunner cluster with the one for the Charger because of problems. I'd put some white faced overlays on those Charger gauges because the original paint was flaking. It looked alright but when we got it back from Grand Island I noticed that the speedometer overlay was wrinkling. I suppose the paint underneath must have continued flaking and that caused it.

I ordered a new set of overlays again and they showed up today. I'll have to pull the dash apart and re-do it.
I used to modify EVERYTHING,,for looks ,1990-Y2k-ish ,John.... It"'s an invigorating experience,done right...BUT the amounts of thought, and research,and application,...just , wiped me out....
 
I used to modify EVERYTHING,,for looks ,1990-Y2k-ish ,John.... It"'s an invigorating experience,done right...BUT the amounts of thought, and research,and application,...just , wiped me out....

You sure ain't kiddin' about the amount of research and planning. I think it's 80% of my time. I've been debating which transmission to put in the funnycar lately. The torqueflite adapters are cheaper but it might be less expensive in the long run to drop in a powerglide. Total cost will probably be the deciding factor. I've been adding up the costs of adapters, converters, and transmissions and comparing them.
 
Last edited:
I'm almost always working in the driveway because of lack of room inside. When I bought the parts washer awhile back I never even bothered to put it in the garage. It's still sitting outside. I was glad to get the Hemi mounted in the chassis so I didn't have it on the engine stand anymore. I'm trying to swing a deal with a guy in Omaha that wants the 512. If he buys it I'll gain a bit more space again.
Went from a 1200 sq.ft. shop(450 bucks,a month!),to a car and a half garage,with limited 110 volt hill billy wiring,(dad always did minimal depression era decisions), My compressor (H.F. 110 ,2.5 horse,40 gallon tank),runs best ,off the back bedroom 40 amp circuit breaker... The neighborhood thinks I am insane,running air hoses,out of a bedroom window....
 
You sure ain't kiddin' about the amount of research and planning. I think it's 80% of my time. I've been debating which transmission to put in the funnycar lately. The torqueflite adapters are cheaper but it might be less expensive in the long run to drop in a powerglide. Total cost will probably be the deciding factor. I've been adding up the costs of adapters, converters, and transmissions and comparing them.
You do sweet work,John... Depending on how that engine ends up,I would still consider a well prepped 'Glide,an viable option...
 
Went from a 1200 sq.ft. shop(450 bucks,a month!),to a car and a half garage,with limited 110 volt hill billy wiring,(dad always did minimal depression era decisions), My compressor (H.F. 110 ,2.5 horse,40 gallon tank),runs best ,off the back bedroom 40 amp circuit breaker... The neighborhood thinks I am insane,running air hoses,out of a bedroom window....

You mean normal people DON'T do that? LOL!!! I usually try to clear the car parts off the dining room table before company comes.
 
Last edited:
If the pipe from JEGS looks as good as the pictures I should be satisfied with it. The zoomies should be simple enough to make. I'll just have to be careful on measurements. If the 90' bends aren't ideal, I'll notch them with a cut off wheel and either add or subtract angle.

As much as I'd like a tubing bender I don't really have room in the garage the way it is now. - I'd rather invest in parts than equipment also.
My Jegs kit,had fantastic mandrel bends,the instructions blow ***,lol.. The quality was really good, hit the pipes with some acetone,or lacquer thinner ,before your preparations for welding...
 
Depending on how that engine ends up,I would still consider a well prepped 'Glide,an viable option...

I know that 'back in the day' they were simple, cheap to build and they didn't rob as much power off the motors as 3-speeds. Heck, if there were any around I'd even consider dropping a Vega converter in one for a 'poor man's high stall'.
 
Last edited:
My Jegs kit,had fantastic mandrel bends,the instructions blow ***,lol.. The quality was really good, hit the pipes with some acetone,or lacquer thinner ,before your preparations for welding...

These are listed as mandrel bent. It's not a kit so instructions won't be a concern. Do they coat them in oil or something?
 
Last edited:
I know that 'back in the day' they were simple, cheap to build and they didn't rob as much power off the motors as 3-speeds. Heck, if there were any around I'd even consider dropping a Vega converter in one for a 'poor man's high stall'.
Seen a V8 Vega with a 'Glide,with the Vega converter IN IT..,lol..
Went 27,2800..behind a mild 350...
 
These are listed as mandrel bent. It's not a kit so instructions won't be a concern. Do they coat them in oil or something?
It seemed ,like it... Some kind of oil,was on them on tack weld... Wiped pipes down,welding was more friendly (cheapo flux core H.F.110 welder)..I would still wash ,wipe with a good solvent.
 
Seen a V8 Vega with a 'Glide,with the Vega converter IN IT..,lol..
Went 27,2800..behind a mild 350...


One of my buddies used to run a 283 '64 Nova in stock class with a powerglide/Vega converter combo. I don't remember what it stalled at but I thought it was quite a bit higher. I know it'd pull one wheel leaving the line.

I always heard that they were spooky to use and could grenade on you but I also heard you could remedy that problem by re-welding the seams.
 
Last edited:
It seemed ,like it... Some kind of oil,was on them on tack weld... Wiped pipes down,welding was more friendly (cheapo flux core H.F.110 welder)..I would still wash ,wipe with a good solvent.

I guess it couldn't hurt.
 
Last edited:
One of my buddies used to run a 283 '64 Nova in stock class with a powerglide/Vega converter combo. I don't remember what it stalled at but I thought it was quite a bit higher. I know it'd pull one wheel leaving the line.

I always heard that they were spooky to use and could grenade on you but I also heard you could remedy that problem by re-welding the seams.
Haven't heard that John,wouldn't surprise me,in the slightest.. My favorite idea,of the old school racers...: Run a smaller ,lower pressure pressure plate,on a small tired car to hook.. 10-15 full boogie passes,the friction disc,is the built in replacement fuse,for small tired traction...
 
As expected, the tubing arrived from JEGS this morning.

IMG_7340.JPG


After unpacking and inspecting it was time to get to work. I took one of my old 'shorty' headers and cut the tack welds from the tubes. Then I ground the flange clean and bolted it to the motor.

IMG_7341.JPG


IMG_7342.JPG


I already knew I was going to have clearance issues with the motor mount plates. Before I could fit my first tube I had to notch for room.

IMG_7343.JPG


IMG_7344.JPG


I ordered way more tubing than I'll need. I couldn't be sure from preliminary measurements whether or not I was going to have to extend the bent tubes further from the heads in order to clear the frame. I'm glad they fit but they couldn't have been any shorter. Even with the notch in the motor mount plates I still had to flatten the front tube for clearance.

IMG_7345.JPG


IMG_7346.JPG


It may look like I'm almost done with the first side but I still have to fit the body back down to see how far I need to extend the tubes and make doubly sure everything is OK before final welding. I'm taking a break now, waiting for a second wind before continuing on.
 
-
Back
Top