I put a new thermostat in a slant when I changed out the leaking radiator. The new thermostat was junk, took it out and left off a thermostat, never ran hot again! ha Go figure.
I am not liking this, is this per instruction? I would like to see the sensor on the intake manifold if possible. Placement in the radiator can have very different temps depending where the sensor is placed. Me I would find the correct radiator for your car and the stock fan blades. If you still have your old radiator you can have a new core installed and using your stock brackets. You have ask yourself just when did your heating problems start....The radiator has a place for a sensor so I installed a thermostatic switch at 185
Even a very shallow one as long as it covers the entire radiator and makes the puller pull air across the entire core. your pusher at idle is only really affecting the area of the fans diameter.
yep, perhaps but so pricy, cant afford that right now. Readying some threads from SSdan and he is having good results with the aluminum one so, if bad Ill be post likely heading that way. Of course unless I run into a good deal somewhere. I do see US Radiator has a new copper/brass one for the similar price re-cored one.
All else being equal, an alum rad cools better than copper brass.
Fact: If every component is working properly and in good condition, these engines all ran cool 50 years ago and would so still today. If!
Fact: If every component is working properly and in good condition, these engines all ran cool 50 years ago and would so still today. If!
So here is my problem, I am overheating at just getting around, I cant drive two miles here in Seattle, read that cool, and it will overheat.
A little history, engine was rebuilt completely a few years ago, block was tanked and cleaned, head rebuilt and all. I had the original radiator checked and it was toast so I bought one off of CL for a later model Dart.
The problem I found though is that the core is biased towards the engine compartment while the original was biased away from the compartment, end result, the radiator is too close to the fan so I removed the stock fan and am using a 16" electric fan in front of the radiator pushing air through. Ive had it there since 2017.
So time for an update.
A perfect example of Occam's razor and the principle of parsimony, I took the radiator off and was going to go get it tanked at the radiator shop 20 miles away, but having read so many good suggestions, I decided to run the garden hose through the radiator. Turned it upside down and full blast, the water ran through without backing up at all. Thought I'd try my old radiator and water just trickled through. Nuff said.
I also took the suggestion of removing the brackets from the old radiator and putting them on the replacement. Not a totally perfect fit but none then less, I got them on.
Put the radiator in and drove the car and was able to go much further for longer this time just cruising and temp was about 160. I got on a back road and punched it really hard and fast for a little bit and watched the temp climb to about 210-215. I got home fan came on and cooled down pretty quickly.
I mounted the original 4 blade fan, yeah I know, get a flex blade, and had adequate clearance from the radiator.
Took her for another drive and the temp was down below 160.
Tomorrow or Tuesday it'll be a new thermostat and work on through the other issues.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions yall.
John