Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster

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i like `em

also, i had to remove quite a bit more material from the center register than i had to on the other rims. took me a few hours w/ the good ole dremel.
 
2 mopars and you live in hawaii. who has it better than you... i cant decide what rims to run on the wifes duster. there are some dirt cheap cast aluminum rims out there in 17"s that wont need spacers. i like the idea of using factory parts no matter what brand they come from though. id really like to get a set of the black bullits.
 
2 mopars and you live in hawaii. who has it better than you...

actually i have 4 mopars, three are classics.
my `70 runs 20's all around

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The 13 inch brake kits I make are designed to work with a Mustang rim. 17x8 with 5.72 fits on B and E body cars. For an A body car sometimes the 5.72 BS fits and sometimes you need to go to the newer rims with more backspacing. I have customers who also run the 17x9 Mustang rims. Sometimes a thin spacer is required.

The 18 inch rims help out a bunch in regards to tie rod and upper ball joint clearance.

Spacer out back is one solution but another popular setup is to use a B body rear end in an A body car. Or just get a custom rearend made up that is the correct width.
 
yeah, i've been looking for the b-body rear, thats why i'm not in a hurry to change rear brakes to disc. heck i don't think i need them anyways. i did however get ehrenbergs problem solver wheel cylinders though so no need to use an inline residual valve when i change out the brakes on the front.

sorry, didn't mean to hijack thread.
 
The 13 inch brake kits I make are designed to work with a Mustang rim. 17x8 with 5.72 fits on B and E body cars. For an A body car sometimes the 5.72 BS fits and sometimes you need to go to the newer rims with more backspacing. I have customers who also run the 17x9 Mustang rims. Sometimes a thin spacer is required.

The 18 inch rims help out a bunch in regards to tie rod and upper ball joint clearance.

Spacer out back is one solution but another popular setup is to use a B body rear end in an A body car. Or just get a custom rearend made up that is the correct width.

how can i get ahold of you about the brakes?
 
any you guys know of anybody that has ever canged the outer tie rod out to a heim joint?
 
i took some decent pics of the duster today. 9" is wide on the front!! i may have to do some "creative messaging" on the front steering to do away with the spacers! 10mm doesn't quite cut it! i think 18's would be the way to go like pauly did. it looks killer though i think!
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Yep, looks great. The A body cars look really good with 17x9 rubber on them, especially if they are lowered down a little bit. The 9 inch wide rubber up front takes a little body work to clear and you have to have the backspacing dead nuts on to clear everything. 18 inch rims make it easier to clear the suspension components but then you end up with really short sidewalls.
 
hey pauly,you ever heard of anybody heating up the steering arm and tweeking it a little? i think it was the dude at lofgren i talked to that said he had done it on some drag cars. i am worried about the side load though doing auto-x! i may try it just for on the street to get me by,but no racing! it would be nice if someone had a steering arm laying around that i could get and make a pattern to do some billitt arms! anybody help me out?!
 
i can't say as i've heard of anybody doing that with any car. but after some cloudy sunday morning logic, i can't think of any reason you couldn't do that. people heat coils and leafs all the time for their desired results and i haven't heard of any catastrophys to date.

just for reference, do you have the later v-8 k frame and suspension?
73-76 i think, w/ the stock discs, or did you use a brake kit.
just trying to figure out why i have tie rod clearance and you don't.

thanks for the link to the spoiler, they're really nice pieces but the shipping for that would kill me... i'll be checking the boneyards for something similar.
 
yes. i have the later k-frame with disk. my only problem is the clearance on the outer tierod end! i will be talking to andyf about the viper kit. we took her to the grand run in pigeon forge,tn yeterday. fat front tires bring out all the slop in the frontend as usual! i will be talking to dick at firm feel about building a performance box tomorrow. the bushing for the sector shaft is shot. everything else is almost new. i need to do that before the brakes,but i want the brakes in the next couple months!
 
wracks, how the hell did you fit the 9" rims on your duster with a 3/8" spacer? you have an abody rear? what rear 8 1/4 or 8 3/4? i took some measuremeents on the duster tonight and face of drum to leaf spring i only have 5.5." i want to order some wheels this week. i want to make sure i know what im getting myself into before i buy them. i see 10.5-11" of wheel well so it looks like ill be needing a big *** spacer/adapter until i stick a wider rear in the car. 1" or more.
 
i am running an 8 3/4 a body rear. the spacer is actually 10mm thick,which is about .015 thicker than 3/8,not much difference! the tire is close,but it works.
 
ok, so what are you guys with bullit rims on mopars running for centercaps? i got my wheels i have to make up a set of spacers. i have read of guys turning down the rotor or opening up the rim to fit without spacers but that will make the grease cap stick out even further through the rim.
 
ok, so what are you guys with bullit rims on mopars running for centercaps? i got my wheels i have to make up a set of spacers. i have read of guys turning down the rotor or opening up the rim to fit without spacers but that will make the grease cap stick out even further through the rim.

i didn't have to do anything to mine! when i go to the 8" in front i can ditch the spacers,but i put the 9's on to trial fit and they went on without a hitch!
 
yes, in order to run ford rims without a spacer you have to hog out the lip on the inside part of the rim. i just used a dremel. it wont change the size of the register on the outside though so you'll be able to use the stock size center cap, preferably one without ferd written on it. lol
 
i looked at the rim real good, if i hog out that lip, the center caps that came with my rims wont have anything to attach to. on my car the grease caps for the wheel bearings stick out past the rim. just like that picture of the green valiant with the black front end, and your white valiant. you can see the grease caps sticking out past the rim. first time i went to fit the rim the grease cap knocked the center cap right out.
 
the two new bullitt's i bought came with a hofey raised center cap,would that work?
 
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