Anyone tried one of these HEI Distributors?
- Thread starter PocketAces
- Start date
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19dartsport76
Active Member
is that a "single wire"? i bought one from a guy that used it in a 78 pickup. was thinking of puttin it in my dart. he said i just hook one wire from the igntion power supply to the terminal on the distributor with no external coil or other requirements...haven't been brave enough to try it yet though....
scrappydoo
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's right.
Single power wire setup. should be a lot cleaner in the engine bay, if it fits.
Looks like it has the GM HEI 4 pin module in it.
I'll check how much advance is in it as well and let you all know.
74DartSwinger360
The Brat Pack
I put HEI on my 1983 Slant 6 Mirada I just sold I can send you a diagram for the wiring PM me.
scrappydoo
Well-Known Member
Thanks, but this distributor is all in one, so just needs 12v connected and away you go.
74DartSwinger360
The Brat Pack
Oh okay but if anyone else wants to know all i did was find a factory non leanburn distributor and went to junk yard cut wiring from a chebby for the connector ends and spliced it in and ran a cooling fan from a computer about 2 inch in diameter and never had a prob.
67 gt
A Wog boy who loves his Mopars !
Mine is the std type cap and running a external coil (bosh) with getting 12v all i did was join the 4 wires from the Ballest resister.Soldered the 2 wires on the right together and 2 left together than purchased a small joiner with locking screws from jaycar and thats it.Nice and neat as you dont even notice the join as the wires are tucked away.Removed the Ballest resister and refitted self tapper screw back into the fire wall.With the Bosh coil its mounted to the heater motor studs which protrude through the fire wall and it sits nicely tucked behind the rocker cover and its still assessable to mount all the wires to it as the LD4B didnt have any where to mount it and i refused to drill more holes onto the inner guard or fire wall so i used what was available.
PocketAces
Well-Known Member
I just finished my second tank of gas with the new distributor, this time with the plugs gapped at .050". The gas mileage worked out to 12.9 mpg. I doubt the bigger gap hurt the mileage so I'm guessing it's just margin of error. The two tanks average together at 13.2 which is a 1.8 mpg improvement with the new distributor.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I haven't been driving my 65 Dart 273 regularly yet, but hope to do better. Is that mixed city/hwy miles? If so, not terrible, especially if short trips with a cold engine. You might try running leaner. The big spark may make that possible. Not real easy with a carb, unless yours has metering rods (Carter or Edelbrock I think). I have Holley TBI in my BB, so as easy as turning a knob, though I have O2 feedback anyway.
jmfasc
Member
I got one a couple months ago and just now decided to put it in. No luck. I read that it sometimes omes with a bad module so I put a new one in. Still no luck. Still wondering if I have the wiring right. The dizzy wires go straight to the coil and then the coil is grounded and I have it hot wired to the batt just till I make sure everything works. (I have a batt cut off so don't yall think it hot all the time) 12.8 volts at coil and the same at the lack and red on module. So any thoughts? Oh and i have the blaster 2 coil. Btw. This is the first time I really asked anything on here. I've reading for years and have built my duster all alone(except for everyone's help here) and I thank this site and the people here.
PocketAces
Well-Known Member
It's all city but on a main road that flows pretty good. 10 miles each way to work and a short trip at lunch time. There's also a pretty big hill in there, about 1000 feet elevation change. I have a carter 2 bbl. It doesn't smell rich and the plugs looked OK. Back in the 70's my dad used to tin the jets in all his carbs with solder. Cheaper than buying different jets. LOL.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
You should start a new thread for this question. I don't quite follow your wiring description. If you can draw a schematic and scan it, that would help. I haven't installed mine yet, but I think there should be only 1 wire going from the HEI module to coil-. coil+ should be wired to IGN (12 V w/ key on). The HEI module also needs IGN (red wire?). I forgot if it has a ground wire or relies on the mounting to get its ground.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
jmfasc,
Red wire to coil +, 12V ignition to coil +. Black to coil -. Distributor gets ground via bolt clamp. Do not ground coil, the module does that! If you want to ground something, add a ground wire to distributor body to engine. It prevents loss of ground when clamp is loose to adjust timing.
Red wire to coil +, 12V ignition to coil +. Black to coil -. Distributor gets ground via bolt clamp. Do not ground coil, the module does that! If you want to ground something, add a ground wire to distributor body to engine. It prevents loss of ground when clamp is loose to adjust timing.
Hersbird
Well-Known Member
you said "dizzy wires to coil" there should be only one wire from the distributor right? Are you still trying to use the factory wires? just do it how KitCarlson said above.
Hersbird
Well-Known Member
oh wait you are talking about the original distributor on this thread. in that case wire as above but also remember you need the right kind of coil.
jmfasc
Member
i got it! thanks! yeah i had the coil grounded too
good thing i was testing it on the original coil! but yeah i took all the original ignition wires out and tapped into the main harness under the dash and put a kill switch with it. runs great though. very impressed. i was scared about trying it at first. thanks for the help guys
good thing i was testing it on the original coil! but yeah i took all the original ignition wires out and tapped into the main harness under the dash and put a kill switch with it. runs great though. very impressed. i was scared about trying it at first. thanks for the help guys
jmfasc
Member
im talking about the hei unit off ebay, but i got it thanks
scrappydoo
Well-Known Member
Just a follow up on this dizzy, it fits, clearance is fine just gets close to the kickdown bracket.
Only thing is you have to dremel the locating lug on the cap and clock the cap 180 deg. I'll post some pics if you want.
scrappydoo
Well-Known Member
Ok, I just checked the advance mech is about 18deg all in by 2100rpm, vac adds about another 25deg
some pics ignore the leads lol, waiting on some more, and pics are from phone. sorry about quality.
some pics ignore the leads lol, waiting on some more, and pics are from phone. sorry about quality.
i got a 6al box & msd dist. an a accel super coil which was on the car when i got it. the manager at the parts house told me to go with a colder plug & gap at 30. along with a mini starter it's been 2&1/2 yrs starts almost instantly. other than the price almost 700 $ for the dist & box i love it. oh he also said to use a champion plug. i tried e-3 which r praised on horsepower tv but didn't want to idle at all. another expensive mistake,almost 50 & for a set of plugs i used 2 0r 3 days. as far as mileage, with 2x4's on a 440-60 10.5 to 1 compression, about 6 or 7 mph . so i've decided to go to a 360 stroker to 408 i figured alittle more hp & less weight
darc1722
Well-Known Member
Just installed a new HEI procomp distributor on my 1969 318. Also installed new engine wiring harness, removed ballast resisitor (jumpered connections together) and replaced voltage regulator with new electronic regulator, that looks stock. Started right up on first try and everything looked good, but it's not charging the system. Hooked HEI (2 wires red to + black to - on coil) and used connections per the 1969 wiring diagram (except for jumpered out ballast resistor) there's also a blue wire from wiring harness to the + side of the coil as well. I checked the wiring from the FLD on the regulator to the FLD wire on the alternator and it's good, what am I missing as it seems easy enough.............
PocketAces
Well-Known Member
Finally finished my third tank of gas. This time only 12.5 mpg which brings my 3 tank average with the new distributor to 12.9. Still better than the old distributor, but not as much as I thought.
The best tank was the first tank before I increased the spark plug gap. Is it possible the bigger gap hurt the mileage?
EDIT: I remember now that the first tank had some freeway miles.
LH23H2R
Well-Known Member
I'm quite the neophyte here , esp when electronics are involved ; however , please permit me to offer the following :
- Have you been affording the gas pedal a bit more largesse because of a power increase (real or perceived) ?
- Torrance is in L.A.'s "South Bay" (e.g. , beach city for our brothers from out of the area ; it's near L.A.X.) . Lots of temperature and humidity changes as of late ; perhaps these factors are contributing to the marginal mileage loss ?
My theory is that , like any increase in performance (better cam , 4 bbl swap , dual exhaust , gear swaps) , there's a natural desire to tap-into these improvements . Could it be that you've been "on-it" more with the upgraded ignition (thusly compromising fuel economy) ?
Best of luck , my So Cal bradah ! :glasses7:
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