Anyone tried one of these HEI Distributors?

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Each application will be slightly different. A heavier vehicle like a truck will want a slower advance curve,and thus heavier spring's. For an A body which is light,most likely a light adv spring will do,but given that it's an hei dist in a mopar maybe less adv is needed?
 
I am familiar with the sounds my engine makes after 34 years of experience. It is an automatic, if I give it heavy throttle from a start it goes thru the gears and it sounds fine. If it is in 3rd and I give it medium throttle without kicking it down it rattles some at lower RPMs. By retarding the base timing a few degrees the rattle goes away, however the idle and vacuum at idle, is better with more advance. This could be improved by modifying mechanical and vacuum advance.

The ignition I am working on provides an electronic advance via a 3D table based on RPM and manifold pressure. Accurate tuning is possible for operating conditions by changing values in table. There is additional degree of freedom in the adjustment vs two 2D tables.
 
Sure pays to shop around! Currently looking for vynil plank flooring,but there's not much competition around here.
 
needsaresto said:
Bill,would youplease provide the link for what you'r talking about?
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Sorry, I was lazy and figured people would Search. The link to my post is:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=176755

This was an ambitious project and took much time, so don't feel it is a regular checklist item. It mainly helps if you plan upgrades like HEI and EFI. A few before me did similar, but I didn't see posts w/ photos. I am planning EFI for my 64 Valiant too, so looking for another under-hood relay box. Amazingly slim pickings on ebay, so maybe my next PickNPull trip. After looking a bit, the 91-95 Jeep box I used on the Dart still appears about the best candidate. Mopar minivan boxes should work too (a FABO guy used one). The Slant is a little harder engine wiring since you can't run across the front timing cover like the SB.
 
If I wanted to use one of these distributors what do I do with the wires/plug for the factory module? just tuck them away or what do I have to do with them?
 
64drtGt said:
If I wanted to use one of these distributors what do I do with the wires/plug for the factory module? just tuck them away or what do I have to do with them?
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If your car is a 64, the "factory module" isn't factory, it was added. I just removed mine and taped the wire where the previous owner had spliced into the harness for power. All the other wires go to either the distributor or the coil and they can be removed. If they did a nice job and taped them into the harness, you may have to untape the harness to get rid of them.

I guess you could leave the module and the wires in the car until you're satisfied you don't need them anymore. You would unplug the wires to the distributor when you pull out the old distributor. Also remove the wires that go from the ignition module to the coil and tape up all the ends so they don't short to ground accidentally.

After you've installed the new 12V low resistance coil, hook up the original wire that supplies voltage to the coil and short out the ballast resistor so the coil gets 12 volts all the time. Finally, connect the red and black wire from the new distributor to the coil.

That's it.
 
Just fitted one of these to my sb Dart and what a difference compared to the twin point,Nite and Day. I used the bosh coil nice and small and mounted it on the heater motor mount bolts nicely tucked behind the rocker cover.
 
65DartGTConv said:
If your car is a 64, the "factory module" isn't factory, it was added. I just removed mine and taped the wire where the previous owner had spliced into the harness for power. All the other wires go to either the distributor or the coil and they can be removed. If they did a nice job and taped them into the harness, you may have to untape the harness to get rid of them.

I guess you could leave the module and the wires in the car until you're satisfied you don't need them anymore. You would unplug the wires to the distributor when you pull out the old distributor. Also remove the wires that go from the ignition module to the coil and tape up all the ends so they don't short to ground accidentally.

After you've installed the new 12V low resistance coil, hook up the original wire that supplies voltage to the coil and short out the ballast resistor so the coil gets 12 volts all the time. Finally, connect the red and black wire from the new distributor to the coil.

That's it.
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Not wanting one for my dart was thinking about one for my 1984 pickup.
 
I got mine in the mail today. Hoping to have the 273 back together in a couple of weeks.
 
I paid around 65 dollars + 20 for postage in Australia and it wasn't in a white box as every one has stated and the supplier has even offered a 3 year warranty on faulty workmanship! mate you cannot beat that regardless if you had an MSD or ICE ignition which would have put me out around $1100.00 for the ICE system and$ 600 for the MSD
 
I was looking at the new distributor next to my old one and noticed that it lines up different. Please see photo, the original has the rotor parallel to the key that goes to the oil pump gear (they both point in the same direction). The new one is off by at least an inch as the rotor is off by about two plug wires. Is this normal or did I get a bad one?
 

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So I just found out somthing nice skipwhite the guy who is sold the one in the first link has a real store about 40 minutes from my house so maybe he has more and I can cut out ebay all together.
 
darc1722 said:
I was looking at the new distributor next to my old one and noticed that it lines up different. Please see photo, the original has the rotor parallel to the key that goes to the oil pump gear (they both point in the same direction). The new one is off by at least an inch as the rotor is off by about two plug wires. Is this normal or did I get a bad one?
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I wouldn't think that is normal as normally you would be able to put the distributor in time or 180 out and that would throw it out. If the rotor is solid on the shaft you could over come this by just moving the plug wires over to the correct places.

Someone else chime in if im wrong.
 
darc1722 said:
I was looking at the new distributor next to my old one and noticed that it lines up different. Please see photo, the original has the rotor parallel to the key that goes to the oil pump gear (they both point in the same direction). The new one is off by at least an inch as the rotor is off by about two plug wires. Is this normal or did I get a bad one?
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Mine was the same way. I had to re-route the plug wires to get the timing right.

I guess that would be bummer if your wires are custom cut to the perfect length. Alternatively, you could rotate the distributor body a corresponding amount, but not sure where that would leave the vacuum advance diaphragm pointing.


It's easier if you make note of which cylinder the rotor is pointing to before you pull the old distributor out of the engine. Then transfer the wires to the new distributor in order going around the cap starting with the one that the rotor is pointing to.
 
Yeah, guess I'll just move the #1 plug over a couple spots, shouldn't be a problem as long as #1 fires at TDC. I was preparing to send it back but I guess they're all like that, I'm still going to call the guy to see what he says. thanks
 
darc1722 said:
I was looking at the new distributor next to my old one and noticed that it lines up different. Please see photo, the original has the rotor parallel to the key that goes to the oil pump gear (they both point in the same direction). The new one is off by at least an inch as the rotor is off by about two plug wires. Is this normal or did I get a bad one?
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Mine was the same when i got it and i thought the same as you, just make sure that number one piston is on TDC with both valves closed and firing fit dizzy in the same way as the old one now look at the rotor button with the cap slightly lifted to see which one is firing so you make that one number one and go in the firing order from there.Once you have fired it up and every thing checks out ok, put a timing light on and adjust to your preference. Remember if the rotor is not exactly lined up dont freak as you can move dizzy CLOCKWISE or ANTICLOCKWISE.
 
70aarcuda said:
or just move the intermediate shaft....
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DO this!!!

It's not a defect, it's just the way they are built. Look at an MSD distributor, same deal as the one I dropped in my 360. Had to move the oil pump drive a little to get #1 lined up where I wanted.
 
Just purchased this distributor with coil in cap.
$125 delivered.
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scrappydoo said:
Just purchased this distributor with coil in cap.
$125 delivered.
2012-05-10%252019.44.22.jpg

2012-05-10%252019.46.55.jpg

IMAG0227.jpg
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How much room do you have on the wiper motor, my stock mopar electronic one is pretty tight on my duster.
 
Please do not buy that I bought it and. Ever got spark to the plugs wound up using msd if your gonna do something mite as well do it rite.
 
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