ARP Head stud nut clearance with valve springs

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Sean Mooney

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I got ARP Head studs and 6pt nuts. On a couple of the studs the nut fits down between the valve springs but I can’t get the socket down between the springs to torque the nuts. I have ground down the socket as much as possible but it still won’t fit between the springs. Any suggestions?
I have Brodix B1BA small blockheads with solid roller cam.
 
:rofl:ARP has "great customer service" and an awesomely helpful "customer service" dept with knowledgeable "tech" representatives. Lol...
I'm gonna stir the pot, has ARP fixed any Mopar related issues? Sb main stud oil pump clearance issues and sb head stud oil feed issues?
 
You need 12 point nuts. It's not just a Chrysler deal. If you are running any decent valve spring you'll need a 12 point nut.

I never buy anything like that anymore without 12 point nuts.
 
You need 12 point nuts. It's not just a Chrysler deal. If you are running any decent valve spring you'll need a 12 point nut.

I never buy anything like that anymore without 12 point nuts.
A G R E E.
 
Are the 12pt nuts a smaller socket size?


Yes, smaller. IIRC (and to say for 100% sure) that the 1/2 stud uses a 3/4 6 point nut and takes a 3/4 socket (that I'm sure of) and the 6 point uses a 1/2 socket (I'm pretty sure on that...that is the biggest it would be) so it's a pretty big reduction in diameter.

There are some heads that you have to mount on the block and remover the 3-4-5-6 exhaust springs to get them together. When everything is torqued, you put the springs back on. PITA but if you want to make HP it is what it is.
 
Yes, smaller. IIRC (and to say for 100% sure) that the 1/2 stud uses a 3/4 6 point nut and takes a 3/4 socket (that I'm sure of) and the 6 point uses a 1/2 socket (I'm pretty sure on that...that is the biggest it would be) so it's a pretty big reduction in diameter.

There are some heads that you have to mount on the block and remover the 3-4-5-6 exhaust springs to get them together. When everything is torqued, you put the springs back on. PITA but if you want to make HP it is what it is.
Thanks
 
Yes, smaller. IIRC (and to say for 100% sure) that the 1/2 stud uses a 3/4 6 point nut and takes a 3/4 socket (that I'm sure of) and the 6 point uses a 1/2 socket (I'm pretty sure on that...that is the biggest it would be) so it's a pretty big reduction in diameter.

There are some heads that you have to mount on the block and remover the 3-4-5-6 exhaust springs to get them together. When everything is torqued, you put the springs back on. PITA but if you want to make HP it is what it is.
You can't have a 1/2" stud with a nut that takes a 1/2" socket/wrench. Per ARP's catalog their 1/2" 12-point nuts take a 9/16" or 5/8" socket.
 
You can't have a 1/2" stud with a nut that takes a 1/2" socket/wrench. Per ARP's catalog their 1/2" 12-point nuts take a 9/16" or 5/8" socket.


That's why I said I think. I would have to walk out and grab one. When you are my age, 1/2 and 9/16 are so close you just lump them together.

Now that I think about it, the 1/2 size is for 7/16 rod bolts with 12 point heads.
 
Yes I noticed none of the studs are cut for oil clearance in the head. Will this be an issue with the Brodix small block heads?
It is a possible issue for any head. The .500" dia stud shank is a lot larger than the .44" (or is it .42"?) reduced shank of the head bolts. No issues have surfaced that I am aware of however. This is probably because even with the reduced flow area around the stud, it is not the smallest restriction in the oil flow path to the rocker shafts; that spot is usually up where the shaft bolts down to the rocker stand carrying the oil up from the head.

If the Brodix clearance holes for the bolts/studs were smaller that the clearance holes in the stock heads, then maybe more thinking and computation of flow area is needed. If the same size, it looks like you will be OK. So I'd check a stock hole diameter at this point and compare to the Brodix's.
 
It is a possible issue for any head. The .500" dia stud shank is a lot larger than the .44" (or is it .42"?) reduced shank of the head bolts. No issues have surfaced that I am aware of however. This is probably because even with the reduced flow area around the stud, it is not the smallest restriction in the oil flow path to the rocker shafts; that spot is usually up where the shaft bolts down to the rocker stand carrying the oil up from the head.

If the Brodix clearance holes for the bolts/studs were smaller that the clearance holes in the stock heads, then maybe more thinking and computation of flow area is needed. If the same size, it looks like you will be OK. So I'd check a stock hole diameter at this point and compare to the Brodix's.
Thanks
 
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