ASPX Wide Band

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Brandon Weaver

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I guess this would be the section to put this in, feel free to move it if not.

Was just cruisin' Ebag, found this here

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/APSX-D1-Digital-Wideband-Controller-LED-AFR-Display-and-Bosch-LSU4-2-Sensor-/181273702846?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a34c131be&vxp=mtr"]Apsx D1 Digital Wideband Controller LED afr Display and Bosch LSU4 2 Sensor | eBay[/ame]

which led me to their website, with more products/lower prices than their ebay site

http://www.wide-band.com/widebandproducts

never heard of them before, but according to a quick google search, they do group buys...

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/153738-wide-bandcom-apsx-d1-kit-group-buy/

I think the price is quite reasonable, it comes with a bosch sensor, MS compatible, supposedly good customer support, did I mention cheaper than everyone else?

Does anyone have any input on this? I was going to do narrowband, but this is reasonable, and with a group buy would be even better...
 
If you are looking for a wideband I had tremendous luck with this when I had my 04 neon SRT-4, which was boosted. It sure helped with tuning at Wide Open Throttle.

I'm not sure how this would work with a Header, I guess you just drill and a hole and weld a bung on for the o2 sensor, just not sure what the best placement would be.

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?...th=41_72_152&gclid=CMPB6srHvsECFcyyMgodKDAA4Q
 
Look on amazon or ebay for an AEM. Have a couple of friends that have them in use.

I have an old school LM1 that has worked great.

The Kevco line is probably because their oil pans usually have some wire spatter/slag in them that needs some attention. Those welds are some of the ugliest "chicken shitting molten metal" workmanship I've seen. I'd be embarrassed to post a photo if my work quality was that poor.
 
[/QUOTE]The Kevco line is probably because their oil pans usually have some wire spatter/slag in them that needs some attention. Those welds are some of the ugliest "chicken shitting molten metal" workmanship I've seen. I'd be embarrassed to post a photo if my work quality was that poor.[/QUOTE]

Ah. Make sense. I googled Kevko and came up with oil pans, then got lost...

Since the OP is inquiring about a slant, its obvious he only has 1 header for the o2 sensor, but where would this go on a v8? Would there have to be an x-pipe for 02 to go into?

Just curious. Sorry for the thread hijack.
 
I install the O2 right after the collector on V8 cars. Read one bank at a time. There are some widebands that have two sensors. Unfortunately, you can't leave a sensor installed and not have it active. The sense element needs to be warmed otherwise deposit load up on it. A little swapping side to side has worked OK for me.

Putting the sensor the x pipe isn't the best place to install. You can't isolate a bank that way.
 
crackedback said:
I install the O2 right after the collector on V8 cars. Read one bank at a time. There are some widebands that have two sensors. Unfortunately, you can't leave a sensor installed and not have it active. The sense element needs to be warmed otherwise deposit load up on it. A little swapping side to side has worked OK for me.

Putting the sensor the x pipe isn't the best place to install. You can't isolate a bank that way.
Click to expand...

So really this method would be for tuning each bank not really for constant monitoring?
 
Since the OP is inquiring about a slant, its obvious he only has 1 header for the o2 sensor...[/QUOTE]

Well... not exactly... :glasses7:

I'm running true duals, with 2 dutra manifolds lol
I also would be interested in getting a read on both pipes, as the front 3 usually are leaner than the rear 3
 
I just bought the Summit brand wide band for $165 and it works great. I welded the bung just aft of collector. AEM stamped on the back of the gauge, plain white box. Best $165 I've ever spent on my car.
 
mderoy340 said:
I just bought the Summit brand wide band for $165 and it works great. I welded the bung just aft of collector. AEM stamped on the back of the gauge, plain white box. Best $165 I've ever spent on my car.
Click to expand...

Really? that's pretty good to know.
 
Brandon Weaver said:
Update: nevermind, this product is hardly mentioned online (except for his abundance of advertising) but this makes me want to run away...
http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2138
Click to expand...


Hey Brandon, Fred over at diyefi.org is a real saint, eh? I met him in Fallbrook when he was on his USA tour helping freeEms guys if they would house and feed him. Not a bad way to see the country, eh? I would trust his judgement, he pulls NO punches.
 
Hey, if you can swing a 4.9 instead of a 4.2 sensor, they are much better. They use a closed cell reference pump as opposed to a 4.2 open air sample. That means longer life and more accurate readings. A 4.2 behind a leaking exhaust header will throw some crazy readings refferencing off that exhaust leak. The heater integrated into the controller is very important too. The 14.7 has a temperature scale too.
 
pishta said:
Hey Brandon, Fred over at diyefi.org is a real saint, eh? I met him in Fallbrook when he was on his USA tour helping freeEms guys if they would house and feed him. Not a bad way to see the country, eh? I would trust his judgement, he pulls NO punches.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was thinking that wasn't too bad of a product, and was thinking about getting one, despite no reviews online. Good thing I stumbles across that!

Glad to hear about the differences in the sensors, I'll have to check and see which use what now.

*Update: looks like only three of the gauges under $200 that I was looking at have 4.9.
The new gen4 PLX, AEM, and...
the glowshift. I never would've guessed glowshift to have some of the better product.

And it looks like summit has changed their gauge. mderoy340's was AEM, but they may not be any more http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-170634
 
AEM all the way, I also had one on my srt4 with a big turbo and engine work, always worked awesome, just know if you ever run race fuel to pull the sensor and clean it off with brake or carb cleaner, the lead builds up and causes them to not read as accurately, but not far off. I have some for my race car now which will be twin turbo later, but I'll also be using them on my 67 dart that's also twin turbo.
 
Brandon Weaver said:
Yeah, I was thinking that wasn't too bad of a product, and was thinking about getting one, despite no reviews online. Good thing I stumbles across that!

Glad to hear about the differences in the sensors, I'll have to check and see which use what now.

*Update: looks like only three of the gauges under $200 that I was looking at have 4.9.
The new gen4 PLX, AEM, and...
the glowshift. I never would've guessed glowshift to have some of the better product.

And it looks like summit has changed their gauge. mderoy340's was AEM, but they may not be any more http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-170634
Click to expand...

This is the Summit kit I purchased. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2996/overview/
 
A couple of things to note about A/F guages, and some of it has already been mentioned here.
I paid around 160 or so for mine and LOVE it.
It will allow you to set your mixture at all rpm's without guess work or having to pull plugs to check how they are running. (of course pulling a plug or two is a nice verification of what the guage is telling you.)
On my own car, for instance I will end up getting the next size up needles for the Edelbrock because I am a little on the rich side in the normal midrange of my throttle, and just a hair rich on WOT.
I may also accomplish this with smaller primary jetting, but the point is that I can make that adjustment even though it probably would not even be noticable while driving the car.

One other thing I would like to mention, is that just because 14.7 to 1 is the perfect chemical mixture it doesn't mean you can run the car at that mixture.
Idle quality starts going downhill at about 14 to 1 at 180 degrees (worse if the engine is colder)
And around 14.7 to 1 an engine under load will run too lean and hot.
Don't take the 14 to 1 too literally or you won't be very happy about how your engine runs.
In my own case over a few months my car seems to like around 13.5 or so in all ranges of throttle. (1 point leaner than what would be considered perfect as far as optimum chemical mixture)
My idle mixture is currently at almost exactly 14.7 to one and the car doesn't idle right until it gets up to 180+ degrees. (lean misses) until fully warmed up.


Most kits are single sensor kits and they tell you that you can add a bung to each side and swap the sensor from side to side when checking the total A/F ration of the entire engine. (of course this requires a plug for the unused side, or two plugs if only used to tune and then removed)
Crackedback (Rob) mentioned that the wideband sensors MUST be powered (in use) whenever they are in the pipe.
This is because they are a heated sensor and without the heat the exhaust buildup on the element will ruin the sensor.

The A/F guages have other advantages that you will find out later on.
The one I have also shows error codes, so one night I was downtown and the guage started flashing a E9 error (which is a low voltage code)
I pulled over and found my field wire had popped off the alternator, so I crimped it tighter and put it back on and the problem went away. (i might not have noticed the guage in time before the battery was to low)

The other advantage I found was that I was driving along one day and as I stepped on the gas the engine hesitated a little.
One look at my A/F guage showed the engine went lean at that moment.
I had fairly new filters, enough fuel, and a clean tank so I knew it was the electric fuel pump so I picked one up while I was downtown.
2 days later my fuel pump died, but I already had a replacement in the trunk and 10 min later it was back on the road.

They make a great time cutting tune and diagnostic tool if you notice what it tells you, and know what the solution is.


Sorry for the long wind, but most of this is what I didn't know until I started using one so hope the info helps others.
 
TrailBeast said:
Sorry for the long wind, but most of this is what I didn't know until I started using one so hope the info helps others.
Click to expand...

No worries, long wind usually means good info! I wouldn't of thought the uses of the gauge like you describe, it's very good to know!

Out of curiosity, which gauge did you get for $160?

I had heard that 14.7 wasn't THE perfect number, but that it varied for different motors, and different conditions.

Thanks for the input!

As of right now, I'm kind of at conflict with myself over the Summit/AEM , which is simple, known to work good, a little cheaper,(http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2996/overview/) and the PLX, high tech, super awesome gauge, multiple features available down the road, at a very high price of course (http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=WDBDSMAFR_DM6G4)
 
Brandon Weaver said:
No worries, long wind usually means good info! I wouldn't of thought the uses of the gauge like you describe, it's very good to know!

Out of curiosity, which gauge did you get for $160?

I had heard that 14.7 wasn't THE perfect number, but that it varied for different motors, and different conditions.

Thanks for the input!

As of right now, I'm kind of at conflict with myself over the Summit/AEM , which is simple, known to work good, a little cheaper,(http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2996/overview/) and the PLX, high tech, super awesome gauge, multiple features available down the road, at a very high price of course (http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=WDBDSMAFR_DM6G4)
Click to expand...

I got the Innovate Motorsports wideband kit like this one and it has worked flawlessly for about 6 months now.
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/INNOVATE-MOTORSPORTS-MTX-L-WIDEBAND-AIR-FUEL-RATIO-GAUGE-KIT-W-O2-SENSOR-3844-/191176238188?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c82fde46c&vxp=mtr#ht_460wt_684"]Innovate Motorsports MTX L Wideband Air Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit w O2 Sensor 3844 | eBay[/ame]

And I understand every motor is different also, from waht I hear and read anyway.
Have to keep in mind that 14.7 to one may be the chemically perfect air fuel mixture for complete burn of both the fuel and air, but it doesn't mean it's perfect for under load ignition in an engine cylinder, right?
 
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