Assembling my first big block HELP!

[zac_F71]

I have lots of knowledge of how to assemble an engine and a 68 service manual - but haven't worked with a big block yet besides tearing them down LOL what little tricks or tips can I get for putting one together?

I bought a "running" 71 383 from a guy as I want to get my Demon on the road within a couple months to enjoy it for the summer..

I get it and tear it down to inspect it - all seems fine BUT he honed the cylinders and I'm not sure if he replaced the rings.. How can I tell if the rings have been replaced? - he did a home refresh on it - new gaskets, bearings, honed the cylinders, inspected/greased the valve guides, ect, ect..

I have it torn down to the short block minus the oil pan currently and parts are starting to show up to reassemble it.. I got everything but rings and pushrods.. should I buy rings and pushrods?

My questions-
How do you install the rear main seal?
How do you clock the dist in the block?
Are stock pushrods ok for the added pressure of the stealth head springs (it will be beat on but not rev'd high)
Any special measures that I should take with the MP shim head gaskets?


Going to do a mild 383 -

71 hp 300hp 383 - pistons are .050"-.055" in the hole
Milodon 7qt oil pan
MP windage tray
stock oil pump
Summit double roller chain
Comp hyd 230* @.050"/ .480" 110* cam
stock pushrods/rockers (for now - plan to buy new rods when I get rockers)
440 source Stealth heads OOTB - nothing will be done to them just bolted on
MP shim head gaskets (should be 9:1 static w/ the shims/ stealth heads)
Edelbrock torker 383 (low rise single plane)
1/2" 4 hole spacer
Holley 3310 750
Hedman 1 3/4" B body headers
Summit 3" X pipe
Dynomax Ultraflows dumped at axle
crank under drive pulley off ebay
Mancini lightweight modern alt kit (Toyota 120amp alt)

drive train will be -
stock A727 w/ a refresh kit in it as well as a Transgo shift kit (installed heavy springs)
Original Mopar Super Stock 4.2 band lever
Hughes 3500rpm stall
Hurst Pro-matic 2 shifter
B body 8 3/4 w/ 3.23's

And finally what do you guys think it will make for power?

 

[moper]

Hmm... If it was me, I'd take the rods and pistons out. You'll know if the rings are worn or not by looking at them. It als gives you the opportunity to verify other things. I'd buy a set of micrometers and measure the crrank at least. New bearings on old journals are asking for problems unless the journals are good, and plastigage isn't going to give you good enough measuring. In terms of putting it together - I like using rope seals in the rear main unless it's a race engine. The best instructions are in factory service manuals that can be purchased online. Don;t over-use silicone. Do overuse brake clean to make sure gasket and sylinder wall surfaces a surgically clean before you assemble.

 

[zac_F71]

Hmm... If it was me, I'd take the rods and pistons out. You'll know if the rings are worn or not by looking at them. It als gives you the opportunity to verify other things. I'd buy a set of micrometers and measure the crrank at least. New bearings on old journals are asking for problems unless the journals are good, and plastigage isn't going to give you good enough measuring. In terms of putting it together - I like using rope seals in the rear main unless it's a race engine. The best instructions are in factory service manuals that can be purchased online. Don;t over-use silicone. Do overuse brake clean to make sure gasket and cylinder wall surfaces a surgically clean before you assemble.

I have a 68 service manual so I'm covered there..

Crank looks really good, and it does have new bearings in it, like you said I will probably pull the pistons and inspect the ring as the cylinders have been honed so they've been puled once already.. as all I've heard so far is it's not good to reuse rings.. I also seen the guy didn't clean the decks very good so I will take my roloc bristle (yellow) to it to clean it up some..

This is a budget of budget builds, reusing all the hardware, stock pushrods, stock rockers.

I only bought the stealth heads as 1. lose 60lbs off the front end 2. gain 40-50hp over the stock 440 heads

 

[69conv]

440 source used to cut a few too many corners on the locks and retainers. Maybe they have improved in the last year or 2 but check close.

 

[moper]

The steaths are fine. Reusing rings is fine provided you can remove them properly and reinstall them properly (ring expander...) Just take care in taking thigns apart, clean them good, and take care putting them back.

 

[bOb shingler]

did he remove the ridge at the top of each cylinder or did he have a machine shop do the honing?

 

[zac_F71]

Honing was done by him (previous owner) with a dingle ball hone - there is no ridge likely wasn't one either..

I bought new Hastings moly rings thru work so I'm gapping/installing new one's as it hasn't been fired since it was asembled and I have no clue if there used or not.. and I don't trust it - only want to build this motor once..

 

[Marcohotrod]

the rings, bearings, gaskets, cam, lifters, timing set, valvesprings rebuild and block hone and wash, freezeplugs and measure + polish crank rebuild can work. u check ring end gap on the rings in question? thinking the person u got the engine from honed the cylinders and used new rings, I would have checked some ring end gaps.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Easiest way to find a used ring is to feel the edges. If they are sharp enough to cut you the have been run.
Second easiest is to look at the sides. Used rings will be shiny on one side,and possibly show a wear pattern.
Third is to measure the end gaps.

 

[zac_F71]

It hasn't been fired since the work and he didn't say they were new.. I'm not taking any chance, I'm replacing them.. as I said I only want to assemble the motor once, til I build the 438 stroker short block that is..