Axle Housing U-Bolts

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SoulSurvivor

SoulSurvivor

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High gang,

I am about to embark on the replacement of the stock 7-1/4 rear axle with a 8-3/4 on my 69 Dart. Got the 8-3/4, new SS springs, adjustable snubber, and shock mounts. I just need to get the U-Bolts. Do you know what lengths the U-bolts should be?

Doug
 
Well..I'm almost done with the swap. Just waiting for the driveshaft to come back from the shop. Shortening it by 1/1/2 inch.
I was shocked to see how wimpy the 7-1/4 axle is once I had it laying away from the car. Compared to the 8-3/4 it was just plain puny.
 
Hey Soul Survivor, I'm actually doing the same swap myself. That 7-1/4 is puny! What did you do for the lower shock/spring brackets? Did you purchase n.o.s. or did you find an aftermarket source? Did you use your original driveshaft and shorten the differential end and change the rear yoke? Excuse my ignorance. What are MRE271's?

Thanks,
KUHL DART
 
MRE 271 is the part number for the larger U-bolts you will need for the larger axle tube diameter on the 8 3/4. For the shock plates, I elongated the holes on the same ones used on the 7 1/4 with an air grinder and a good carbide bit. I had my driveshaft shorted by a local driveline shop. Just search the tech archive, thats what I did to find the difference b/w the two rears. I want to say it was 1 3/4 I had taken off the shaft but not 100% sure. MY yokes were the same (741 case).
 
After I Sent My Reply It Struck Me That The Mre271's Stood For Mancini Racing Equipment Part Number For The Rear U Bolts.

When You Slotted Your Old 7-1/4 Spring Plates Did You Just Cut Out To The Edge And Make A Slot? Will This Effect The Strength Enough To Worry About?
 
KUHL DART said:
After I Sent My Reply It Struck Me That The Mre271's Stood For Mancini Racing Equipment Part Number For The Rear U Bolts.

When You Slotted Your Old 7-1/4 Spring Plates Did You Just Cut Out To The Edge And Make A Slot? Will This Effect The Strength Enough To Worry About?
Click to expand...
I just purchased a set of used 8-3/4 shock plates from a fellow FABO member. I think I paid $45 and they were bead blasted and primered.
The thinwalled driveshaft worried me(318,904,7-14) so I had one made made with thick walled tubing. It weighed about 5lbs more than stock and cost me $245 including the Spicer U-joints. It was shorten 1-1/2 inches.
Now I just have to figure out if the Richmond gear set will quiet down after a few miles or if I have to re-adjust. They seem to be noisy..probably because they are not stock, used, or I messed up the lash(I'm not an expert). I notice that Randy's Ring and Pinion states that the Richmond ring and pinion gear sets they sell state 'not for quiet ride'.
 
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