Ballast Question

-

MOPARJ

What can I upgrade now?
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
861
Reaction score
7
Location
Thousand Oaks, Ca
I have noticed something on my 73 Duster and its electronic iginition. It has an orange box, MP distributor and a 4 prong ballast resistor. Of the four prongs, only the bottom two are hooked up. The top two have nothing hooked on either side. The motor runs like this. Is this set up right, or does it need to change?
 
That's my thinking.

I have been chasing an issue where the car most of the time starts and runs great, but every once in a while, after shutting it off and restarting shortly later, it will not fire. There is no spark. Usually, if you wait 3-5 minutes, it will fire right up and run fine and start fine the rest of the day, no problems. It does this occassionally. I have swapped a spare ecu and ballast to no avail.

I am just looking over everything in the ignition. My next project is to check the wire connections to the power wires, possibly those coming towards or away from the ballast and ecu and even the ignition switch.
 
Years ago my parents bought a 73 Satellite Sebring Plus new as my moms car. On several occasions while driving the car, it would just quit, only to restart several minutes later and drive for an undetermined duration, sometimes weeks, until it would happen again. Finally happened once too often and it died on Dad in the parking lot of the Montgomery Wards service center. One of their mechanics came out, opened the hood and quickly claimed the problem to be the ballast resistor. Changed it out and it never happened again!!! Could be your problem!!! Geof
 
My Duster does not have a ballast resistor. Should I be using one? I'm using a Mallory electronic ignition box. I didn't think I needed a resistor since I'm using that.
 
Check the pickup in the distributor as it may be over heating causing no spark. I had a 74 pickup years ago that did that every now and then. One time it happened while I was in line at the bank, so I pushed it out of the way walked home to get help towing it and when I got back to it -it started right up after cooling down. A friend changed out the pickup and it never happened again.
 
Check the pickup in the distributor as it may be over heating causing no spark. I had a 74 pickup years ago that did that every now and then. One time it happened while I was in line at the bank, so I pushed it out of the way walked home to get help towing it and when I got back to it -it started right up after cooling down. A friend changed out the pickup and it never happened again.

If it was the pick-up, I would just change the entire dizzy. The distributor is only 2 years old though, and is a MP quicker advance unit.

It never dies while running and the starting issue only happens after it has run a bit, never when cold. I will usually crank it for a bit, sit, crank it some more, sit, and it will usually fire after about 3-5 minutes. More often than not, it will not do it again for the rest of the day when driving.

It almost seems ignition switch related.
 
I agree with the coil being a potential problem. When they heat up the internal coil opens up and fails to work at that point. They then cool down, the coil makes connection again and it works for a while till the least opportune moment and then fail again. Buy a quality coil and hope for the best!
 
I agree with the coil being a potential problem. When they heat up the internal coil opens up and fails to work at that point. They then cool down, the coil makes connection again and it works for a while till the least opportune moment and then fail again. Buy a quality coil and hope for the best!

I would think that an MSD Blaster coil would be quality, atleast, better than Accel or factory.
 
Change the reluctor coil in the distributor as was mentioned above. I have had them run perfectly then shut the engine off and 5 minutes later won't start. Wait till engine cools down and they fire right back up. Don't ask me why or if, they just do it.

Terry
 
My Duster does not have a ballast resistor. Should I be using one? I'm using a Mallory electronic ignition box. I didn't think I needed a resistor since I'm using that.

Check the specs of your Mallory box; all CDI and some inductive aftermarket boxes run without them.
 
you may need to close down the pick-up coil to reluctor air gap. I know .008 is the spec w/a non metalic feeler gauge, but you may "cheat" some as long as the two do not touch! sometimes this helps out!
 
Just putting a shout out to my buddy Eppy. Thanks for all yours and Rays help at the track this year:thumleft: Greg
 
-
Back
Top