Barbed fittings: Good or bad?

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I went with Chrysler style spring clamps on all barb's, hard lines etc, including radiator hoses. Have had various hoses original to many mopars with them and never any leaks, can't say that about much of the cheap china brand screw/worm gear types that you find nowadays. Always looening up, or coming apart because they're thin weak metal. Springs on any and all barb's for me.
 
And let's talk about hose clamps a bit. The quality has gone downhill since most are made overseas now. Ideal brand seem to still be good. I like the full circle type clamps for smaller diameter hose like the ones pictured. I use standard worm style or the factory flat band clamps on my daily drivers and Corbin clamps on my old Mopars for the coolant just because they are correct. They will seep occasionally though.

clamp.jpg
 
I stuffed a regular type milton barb into a 1/4” air hose without a clamp. 125 psi shop air and it held up to daily use for near a year.
The ones with the yellow ring require no clamps when correct hose is used (as mentioned)

Ideal clamps are about the best worm gear clamps you can buy.
The smaller high pressure clamps are widely used on efi supply lines.
I like to use the crimp on ones,with the right pliers.
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The spring style clamps are the only ones that stay dry, due to the constant tension. All others will squish the rubber, and temperature change will force the rubber to relax so to speak.but they have a limited pressure range.
 
toolmanmike said:
And let's talk about hose clamps a bit. The quality has gone downhill since most are made overseas now. Ideal brand seem to still be good. I like the full circle type clamps for smaller diameter hose like the ones pictured. I use standard worm style or the factory flat band clamps on my daily drivers and Corbin clamps on my old Mopars for the coolant just because they are correct. They will seep occasionally though.

View attachment 1715104523
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I prefer, where possible, to use those FI type hose clamps, for fuel and oil hose applications because they are less likely to cut into the hose like the worm drive clamps, especially if they are overtightened.
 
I have used those push-on fittings (top pix, OP's 1st post) with the right hose since the early 80's for oil cooler lies for all of my rally car use. Have put several hundreds of racing hours at full pressure and high heat on them with nary a drop of oil lost. As has been said, the hose only comes off when you slice it off the fitting.

The push-on fitting ends can be found in many types of styles; pipe threads and threaded coupling styles. I have used several styles, and they all worked. Some types used for plain hydraulic work have smaller ID's so look at that aspect carefully if you plan to use it for oil cooler fittings; I have drilled a few out for better flow.
 
I would have no problem with the barbed fittings and crimp clamps, we run them on our air system up to 150psi and never had one fail ( also unfortunately our system has a ton of water in it as well and never had a problem with the fittings)
 
Now if you really want a clean and secure hose + fitting you can always use crimp fittings I have used these on vehicles at times -- just did it on the tranny lines for my C10 project just because I could but I have a little advantage I work for a division of Parker
 
Dusterdenovo said:
This is why I LOVE FABO
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that is exactly what I was thinking just now before I read your (quoted) post, as I read down thru the posts, the attention to detail/all angles covered by dozens of respondents, best schooling there is (& free!) on multiple mechanical subjects/questions.
 
toolmanmike said:
The "Dixon fittings" that zombywolf linked to are tapered and it looks like the fittings on the oil adapter are. I am sure some aren't. but "most" automotive applications are tapered pipe thread. Many plugs and fittings sealed with a flat gasket, o ring, or seal are straight thread and not tapered. (like a oil pan drain plug)
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I don't need fancy, basic gets it done......J.I.C.works for A.N. in a carbed low pressure pinch , pipe gets it done,if you homework it right. (J.M.O) Great learning thread !
 
dodge71demon said:
Now if you really want a clean and secure hose + fitting you can always use crimp fittings I have used these on vehicles at times -- just did it on the tranny lines for my C10 project just because I could but I have a little advantage I work for a division of Parker
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This is securement,and cheaper than flashy fittings.
 
Going back to the fitting in the fuelpump
That style fitting,in my experience, is a severe restriction. It screws into the pump ok, but measure the hole inside it, and compare it to a conventional oem style fitting,with the single bubble on the end. You'll see what I mean. It'll work on your lo-po 2bbl engine, but don't try it on your HO 360. If you drill it out you'll be flirting with disaster.
I installed a 3/8 line, a 3/8 HO pump and the oem fitting. I did punch out the hole as far as I dared. I chained the engine down for limited motion and but a 3/8 steel jumper from pump to frame line, with EFI jumper hoses at each end, with no barbs, and double gear-clamped with screws diametrically opposed.I might even have looped it, can't recall. It's been good since 2004.
Point is you gotta be careful on the suction side, to avoid restrictions.

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Brass barbed fittings have worked great on my intake. I removed the steel corroded fittings. And the process was a PIA!! Threads on the front bypass hose fitting almost were stripped when i removed it. Had to chase it with a 3/4 pipe tap. It cleaned up ok but lost some material since some aluminum was present in threads of steel fitting. Do brass fittings come out easier than metal fittings after time of use? Or no difference?
 
QuickDart360 said:
Do brass fittings come out easier than metal fittings after time of use? Or no difference?
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I would expect things to be worse for an iron manifold over time as brass is more galvanically reactive with steel and iron than aluminum.

Steel and iron are also less galvanically reactive with an aluminum intake. Any plating with cadmium or zinc will effect it too.
Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge

The issue is that there is a conductive fluid around the parts all the time working to complete the electrical path to transfer ions. It is a harsh corrosion situation. Any teflon will help, but nothing can stop it.
 
nm9stheham said:
I would expect things to be worse for an iron manifold over time as brass is more galvanically reactive with steel and iron than aluminum.

Steel and iron are also less galvanically reactive with an aluminum intake. Any plating with cadmium or zinc will effect it too.
Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge

The issue is that there is a conductive fluid around the parts all the time working to complete the electrical path to transfer ions. It is a harsh corrosion situation. Any teflon will help, but nothing can stop it.
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That's why it's always a good idea to use teflon tape. It creates a barrier that keeps the two metals from interacting. It's not pereft but it does help!!

treblig
 
nm9stheham said:
I have used those push-on fittings (top pix, OP's 1st post) with the right hose since the early 80's for oil cooler lies for all of my rally car use. Have put several hundreds of racing hours at full pressure and high heat on them with nary a drop of oil lost. As has been said, the hose only comes off when you slice it off the fitting.

The push-on fitting ends can be found in many types of styles; pipe threads and threaded coupling styles. I have used several styles, and they all worked. Some types used for plain hydraulic work have smaller ID's so look at that aspect carefully if you plan to use it for oil cooler fittings; I have drilled a few out for better flow.
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AGREE W/ THIS . I am using the push on barbed fittings and appropriate hose that came w/ my fuel inj. set up , 350 psi hose , no clamps.
 
I use the push lock A N fittings where ever I can and use the heat shrink hose clamps, I think it looks better and you have to cut the hose to get them off anyways.

Jeff

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AJ/FormS said:
Going back to the fitting in the fuelpump
That style fitting,in my experience, is a severe restriction. It screws into the pump ok, but measure the hole inside it, and compare it to a conventional oem style fitting,with the single bubble on the end. You'll see what I mean. It'll work on your lo-po 2bbl engine, but don't try it on your HO 360. If you drill it out you'll be flirting with disaster.
I installed a 3/8 line, a 3/8 HO pump and the oem fitting. I did punch out the hole as far as I dared. I chained the engine down for limited motion and but a 3/8 steel jumper from pump to frame line, with EFI jumper hoses at each end, with no barbs, and double gear-clamped with screws diametrically opposed.I might even have looped it, can't recall. It's been good since 2004.
Point is you gotta be careful on the suction side, to avoid restrictions.

View attachment 1715105652
Click to expand...
what? I`m the only one to drill out those type fittings and sweep the inside corners ?!
 
Good idea! Drilling out stuck/stubborn fittings is a good idea. Just takes a little more effort/elbow grease but in the end it can be well worth it!!:rolleyes:
 
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