Beefing up a 727 trans!

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BoredandStroked

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Hey guys and gals I am back and hoping all over here again so here the problem is.

I recently got a 727 trans from a huge deal I made. Its a big block trans that came witht he 383 I bought from a 63 Chrysler 300. My question is how would I change things or get things that would make the 727 last through drag racing with 700 horsepower in front of it. I want a reverse manual valve body badly so what company sells a really nice one for the 727? I would like a cheap one yet one that will never fail at the track. So anyways what would I have to do to beef up the 727 trans and what company sells a nice reverse manual valve body?

Thanks all and I will always be here!
 
Is this the original cable shift push button tranny from the 63?
 
TCI sells a reverse pattern valve body but I'm not sure if it has the low/reverse band apply that would be necessary in your application.

Try to find front and rear clutch retainers that can handle five friction disks or TCI has a specially cut pressure plate and steels that allow you to use the five disks.

Get a high quality bolt in overunning clutch with extra rollers.

Consider an aluminum front drum, these are really pricey, but how much are your feet and ankles worth?

Don't forget red lined bands, front and rear. If this is a strip only application, you can go with the Kevlar bands, but Kevlar is too abrasive for the street.

Chris Andrews of Andrews Racing Transmissions should be able to help you with all these parts and I know they have a really high quality bolt in clutch. He's been super helpful for me with my 727 build and I highly recommend him. None of these parts will be cheap but Chysler never intended their 727s to be behind 700hp. Tell him Joe sent you from A-Bodies only.

Good Luck!
 
After scattering 727 parts all over the starting line last season - and it was far from stock - I was given this list as a must have to provide some assurance A- it will not happen again and B to make my feet feel safer.
I will also being adding a safety blanket.

Billet steel front drum and piston
Billet front Servo Piston
Billet one piece rear servo piston
Alto Clutches and Kolene steels
Seal Kit
Raybestos bands
Low Band apply Valve Body
Bolt in Sprag

The price for adding the parts to my core is ±$1500.
 
www.coperacingtrans.com

Call and talk to John....great guy and he won't see you stuff you don't need. He is making his on VB's now with low band apply. I run one in my 904 and it's fantastic.
 
Looks like a nice kit that Dusterb318 mentions. All parts appear to be from A&A, a well known supplier for tranny parts. At a minimum, I would suggest the kit with the billet steel drum for your application. The aluminum drum I mentioned would wear faster than the steel drum but may be worth a .10 second (or less) in the quarter due to less reciprocating weight.
 
Well thanks guys. Ramcharger... any idea how much all together the parts would be for your application you told me about. My feet and ankles arent worth a crap in my opinion since I have flat feet that give me more back problems then a horse dacing on my back would. But my car is so I will go with the aluminum one you mentioned due to lighter and hopefully as strong. Lighter is the name of the game on my project... just wait until i get pics of the finished interior and you will see what I mean. By the way you mentioned Kevlar bands... what if I was to drive it on the street lets say 10 times a year or so... would that be a really bad idea or ok or what bands would be the best for a lil street driving but mainly strip? Thanks everyone been a huge help!

P.S. Would the same go for a late 60s 727 (small block one)?
 
OK, are you ready?......$920.66 just for the aluminum drum. Here's the link http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=123900

I'm sure you can plug that part # in at the Summit Racing site and save a few bucks, but it 'aint cheap! As far as Kevlar bands go, you should be OK if it's mostly strip driven but I would still remove that trans once a year for an inspection and to freshen it up in the off season. Also, the trans should be pulled for an inspection if there was any driveline failure (driveshaft, ring gear, axle, etc.) I'm far from an expert on automatic transmissions as I have only rebuilt four in my lifetime and this is my first 727 build. I would urge you to contact a professional for your application as the consequences can be disasterous! (See this link! http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=2167 )

Both the billet steel or the billet aluminum would be far safer than the sintered iron OEM piece that has the tendency to explode when the overrunning clutch fails. With this in mind, the middle of the road kit on Dusterb318's link looks great unless your looking for a trans brake valve body. Give them a call, maybe you can substitute a billet aluminum drum for the billet steel. Also, ask them if the five clutch kit fits in four clutch retainer, which is what you most likely have (Unless it's a Hemi Trans!)

There is an excellent book by Carl Munroe on the 727 that you can use to build your transmission almost step by step and also has a few chapters on why the 727 explodes. Let me get the title and ISBN # for you after I get home from work.
 
Ouch... Trying to break my lil piggy bank on the drum I see! well 1500 dollars for it all seems alot better than only 900 some for an aluminum drum. Thanks anyways!
 
Just a little pricey, eh? :toothy5: The book I mentioned was called "Torqueflight A-727 Transmission Handbook" by Carl H. Munroe ISBN: 1-55788-413-7. I got it from Amazon.com for $21.95 I think. Worth it's weight in gold! :thumbup:
 
Call and tell John what you are doing with the trans.....he'll substitute parts in the kits. He makes transbrake VB's and the ones he doesn't make he sell Griner and A&A VB's both are high quality. John bulds some VERY radical 727's for strip action and I wouldn't run with out one of his trannys. You might even find it's cheaper to buy a full trans from him than just buying the parts....call and talk with him you won't be dissapointed I promise.
 
I have a B & M trans rebuild kit that will make your valve body manual and reverse pattern let you have it for 170 and I will pay for shipping.
 
170? You mind holding it a while for me. If you dont want to hold it then that is fine its all up to you Reddishdsb.

I was thinking about that Dusterb318. What would a manual reverse with trans brake run me from TCI or someone else?
 
What about ATI racing transmissons? Looked at their selection and it isnt bad at all. $922 dollars for a 727 or 904 trans with reverse manual valve body or $1542 for the same thing but with a trans brake. By the way... what is the difference between a 727 and 904. I heard that the 904 is lighter but not stronger. Is this true or just a myth?
 
Also... which transmisson from Cope Racing would you recommend for my project? 73 Dart Swinger (-3000lbs) 383 big block (stroked to 431) and 8 3/4 rear end. Would the Pro Race work?
 
727's should take 700 hp all day long as long as you aren't pulling a 15,000 pound trailer with it. In a car it's a piece of cake.

There is some good stuff mentioned in this thread but man is most of it overkill. You have to remember it's not just the power the engine produces that affects the longevity of the parts, it's also the vehicles usage and weight. A 3000 pound car with 700 hp will not be nearly as hard on the drivetrain as a 4000 pound car with 700 hp, or a 7000 pound truck with 400 hp.

My little nearly stock 904 has endured 600 hp with a transbrake for years and never failed in a 3000 pound car. Why in the world a near stock 727 wouldn't take another 100 hp is beyond me. It should easily take nearly double that.
 
Mmmm. I was actually wondering the same thing at one time. So what have you done to your 904 trans? Since you have a 904 can you tell me the big difference between it and a 727 by the way? Thanks !
 
Weight mostly. The 904 is a lighter duty trans that is about 100 pounds lighter than a 727. I don't feel that it offers any real substantial ET gain in most street/strip cars. Now if you are racing stock or super stock where every hundreth counts than it may be worthwhile. I have the 904 in my car because I swapped from a 4 speed. They both cost about the same when starting from scratch but I was looking to reduce the car's overall weight so that's why I went with it.

My 904 has all stock internals except the kickdown band is Kevlar and the valve body is a Turbo Action tranzbrake unit.
 
Guitar Jones said:
727's should take 700 hp all day long as long as you aren't pulling a 15,000 pound trailer with it. In a car it's a piece of cake.

There is some good stuff mentioned in this thread but man is most of it overkill. You have to remember it's not just the power the engine produces that affects the longevity of the parts, it's also the vehicles usage and weight. A 3000 pound car with 700 hp will not be nearly as hard on the drivetrain as a 4000 pound car with 700 hp, or a 7000 pound truck with 400 hp.

My little nearly stock 904 has endured 600 hp with a transbrake for years and never failed in a 3000 pound car. Why in the world a near stock 727 wouldn't take another 100 hp is beyond me. It should easily take nearly double that.
Click to expand...

This is why I advocate a billet steel front drum and bolt in clutch for anything over 400 hp!

brokenfoot.jpg
 
Now where did I see that before... oh yes, a Mustang trying to outrun a tuner. Ok here is plain and simple of what I want in my transmission: reverse manual valve body, strong, maybe trans brake, wont blow up, and most importantly cheap (not looking to spend 2000 on a trans). So we got TCI, Cope, ATI, rebuilding it and not having my leg. Anything but the last one will suit me fine just want everyones opinion on whats the best and why. Thanks guy!
 
ramcharger said:
This is why I advocate a billet steel front drum and bolt in clutch for anything over 400 hp!
Click to expand...

The billet steel or aluminum drum is a good idea, most bolt in sprags aren't any stronger than originals, they were designed as a service part to save the case if possible.

Otherwise having said that there are a few rules one should always follow when racing a TorqueFlite.

1. Never do a 1st gear burnout. Start in 2nd and shift to 3rd. If you absolutely have to start in 1st then shift immediately into 2nd then 3rd.

2. If you break any driveline part, u joint, driveshaft, ring and pinion, axle shaft, whatever, always remove the trans and inspect/replace the overrunning clutch.

3. Install a good SFI approved aluminum or steel trans shield or SFI approved ballistic blanket. Do not use the carbon fiber ones.

I'm not real keen on the low band apply valve bodies because they can mask a problem and some of the trans brake v/b's have a timed release of the l/r band which can shock the sprag at speed.

As always YMMV don't take my opinion for gospel, it's just that, my opinion.
 
Lol... Guitar Jones your a good guy. My auto teacher in high school is certified to work on almost everything and he has done alot of 727 trans rebuilds and I think i am going to haul it up to the shop and just work on it at school. Plus he use to be the transmission guy at a Chevy dealership before he opened up his own shop. Nothing wrong with a Chevy that much in my opinion since some of the parts we can use in our Mopars but still. He knows his stuff and yea I agree with you with the low band apply. Seems like it would mask other problems and could be a lil over the top for a youngster. No need to go all out race mode on my car.

P.S. Your right about opinions and I agree with ya. Sometimes wish people would look and actually talk to the person before thinking they are a dumbass and telling them everything to do and how to do it.

Mom use to street race alot and she scared one of those types of guys down on the floor of her 69 Chevelle to the point he pissed his self and sh*t his pants. Cant tell the whole story because you might think I was lying but hey want me to tell ya it just say "PM me Kid"
 
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