Been fighting with my Millermatic 185....

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bOb shingler said:
hadn't had that happen in 20 years.
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Good to know, thank you Sir.

Went to weld the legs together using my old wire....spool went into the recycling pile...using HF .023 wire with an ear plug before the feeder.......damn, I do remember how to weld. Not the most pretty but will work for me. Will take a few pictures next time I go outside...
 
To answer your question about using a tip one size bigger than the wire.If a spatter ball hits the tip at the wire there is more room around it to keep feeding wire same as if the tip gets gummed up.Catch 22 though,the bigger clearance also allows a bigger chance of getting stuff into the tip further down.Example if a spatter ball hit the tip hole it can form into the hole further making it hard to clean out and some times near impossible.It also let the spatter ball get hot while welding and makes the wire drag.I prefer to use the right tip for the wire but either way is fine just different strokes for different folks.
 
mopar410 said:
To answer your question about using a tip one size bigger than the wire.If a spatter ball hits the tip at the wire there is more room around it to keep feeding wire same as if the tip gets gummed up.Catch 22 though,the bigger clearance also allows a bigger chance of getting stuff into the tip further down.Example if a spatter ball hit the tip hole it can form into the hole further making it hard to clean out and some times near impossible.It also let the spatter ball get hot while welding and makes the wire drag.I prefer to use the right tip for the wire but either way is fine just different strokes for different folks.
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Thanks for the explanation. Tried using a bigger than the wire tip today....had a burn back, operator brain cramp, that took a while to fix. When it burned back it balled the wire up just inside the tip....Had to snip before the feeder and re-thread the damn thing. Went back to the normal tip.
 
Too large of a tip can cause arcing between the wire and tip inside the gun. It's best to just use the proper tip.
 
DNasty777 said:
Too large of a tip can cause arcing between the wire and tip inside the gun. It's best to just use the proper tip.
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x2 The proper tip will provide a more stable arc and on another note, I think the co2 burns hotter for better penetration at a given amperage.
 
Thing was putting up a hell of a fight yesterday. Welds fine when it is "turned up", at lower power/wire speed settings it is a whole different story. Noticed that the feed surges a bit every now and then....although it seems to be at a consistent pace. It happens once a revolution, when the spool is at the same spot. Will be taking it apart to see if I can find anything with the drive motor. When we were in AZ the welder sat outside, under a covered porch for a few years so I am sure there is a crap load of junk in it. Not to mention we had 2 male dogs that used to have a marking contest....one would hike a leg on something....he would walk away then the other one would come along and hike a leg....

Glad I saved that old spool of wire. No point in me un-spooling the good one into the trash while I am trying to figure this out. The liner is new but I very well may pick up another one for it. Or just put the old one back in it, there was nothing wrong with it. When I fought with it the last time I tried to use it some folks on the Miller forum suggested using the "right liner for the wire", old liner was for .035 wire and I was using .023 at that time. Spool I just purchased is a .023 as well. Talked to a fellow the lost time I was in one of the local welding suppliers, his claim was using the .035 line with .023 wire is not going to cause a problem. This guy was an old grizzled looking soul, who has been welding for a living for almost as long as I have been alive....not that it means much....
 
I just don't know, Doug.

Is this a "high use" welder, IE did you buy it new?

Sitting outdoors may have caused some problems, but I would not expect so unless it had been water damaged

What I'd try

Save for last, LOL, tear apart the motor and inspect. This is a DC brush motor of some sort, so the brushes / commutator / bearings

Depending on what you might thing the "time" on the unit is, I'd think about a new liner

Inspect clean and maybe just replace the wire roller (s) and make sure you have the right one

Make sure all power connections are tight, at the gun connection, and inspect internally, there's bound to be a couple / three big bolted connections off the transformer / rectifier / filter / etc

You might try furiously working the speed / heat control pots back and forth to clean the wipers. These would be suspect for replacement from water damage.
 
Make sure the spool mount is turning and that doesn't have a groove cut into it.also make sure Wire feed roller is the right size some have two size grooves and can be flipped over, make sure the roller is tight and clean with no slippage.if you are using a liquid clean as mentioned above it may cause a slip if the roller is lose.you may have to sand the contacts inside the welder.My welder is new but still fickle about the way the lead is laid out.If it drags a little I rotate the gun one rotation is it still feels like it's dragging I rotate it back around then one more time.Sometimes that's all it needs.Also if you cut the liner too long or short it will drag and using a liner a size bigger is fine chances are it has the biggest wire size liner when new.Mine can handle from .023 to .035 so it has a .035 liner in it.
As for the co2, a 95% argon5% co2 burns hotter than 75% argon 25% co2 so straight co2 should burn colder than a mix.I have never used straight co2 so I can't say for sure.
 
A new liner should have instructions with it but if you have the original you can usually go by that.
 
mopar410 said:
.My welder is new but still fickle about the way the lead is laid out.If it drags a little I rotate the gun one rotation is it still feels like it's dragging I rotate it back around then one more time.Sometimes that's all it needs.
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I have two Lincolns, a little 120V MIG and a 180 A both MIGS and both have this same problem. I would guess if the gun was coiled up "tight and cold" and especially when somewhat kinked, that could be even more of an issue.
 
67Dart273 said:
I have two Lincolns, a little 120V MIG and a 180 A both MIGS and both have this same problem. I would guess if the gun was coiled up "tight and cold" and especially when somewhat kinked, that could be even more of an issue.
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I think so too.when mine is not in use I leave the lead loose out of the machine then lay the lead over the welder from side to side then continue with a loop and lay the gun on the welder.I have seen people roll them up tight, with solid .035 or bigger it's not as much of an issue but small Flux core especially can't push through a kink very well.And pulling the cart around by the lead is a bad idea.The top two places a liner kinks is at the gun and at the machine.But nearly every time it's at the gun so don't hang the gun on a hook.The way you store or lay the lead during down time is where the lead and gun flow together like on a table or the welder it self.
 
67Dart273 said:
I just don't know, Doug.

Is this a "high use" welder, IE did you buy it new?

Sitting outdoors may have caused some problems, but I would not expect so unless it had been water damaged

What I'd try

Save for last, LOL, tear apart the motor and inspect. This is a DC brush motor of some sort, so the brushes / commutator / bearings

Depending on what you might thing the "time" on the unit is, I'd think about a new liner

Inspect clean and maybe just replace the wire roller (s) and make sure you have the right one

Make sure all power connections are tight, at the gun connection, and inspect internally, there's bound to be a couple / three big bolted connections off the transformer / rectifier / filter / etc

You might try furiously working the speed / heat control pots back and forth to clean the wipers. These would be suspect for replacement from water damage.
Click to expand...

67Dart273 said:
I have two Lincolns, a little 120V MIG and a 180 A both MIGS and both have this same problem. I would guess if the gun was coiled up "tight and cold" and especially when somewhat kinked, that could be even more of an issue.
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Del, the welder was brand new when I got it....was still strapped to a pallet in the oem box. I have hardly used it, if you combined all the wire I have ran thru the thing it may total what ever one of the big spools weigh, I believe it is 33 pounds.
Like I mentioned earlier....two dogs used to hike a leg on it several times a day. The bottom of the welder is somewhat rusty. For a while, it was sitting near the edge of my covered patio in AZ. When it was raining, if the re was the slightest breeze, I am sure it got wet.
I replaced the liner a short while ago. It may have 8 pounds or so of wire thru it. Not saying it might not be damaged. I am planning on ordering a new liner, along with a new drive wheel for it over the weekend. My machine only has 1 drive wheel available.

http://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/miller-023-035-drive-roll-090423

This wheel is used for .023-.035 wire.

I will be opening it up here shortly to check all the connections on it. I do know that the 2 wires under the lid, in the wire compartment, are tight. I am going to put the welder on the desk I have been using to build my bike table on, hopefully tomorrow. Going to pull it apart and see if I can find anything.

I have never coiled the gun up. I always have looped it very loosely around the welder when I am done using it. Again, I am not ruling out the liner being tweaked at this point. I am going to check the feed motor out as well. Thanks for the advice....
 
mopar410 said:
I think so too.when mine is not in use I leave the lead loose out of the machine then lay the lead over the welder from side to side then continue with a loop and lay the gun on the welder.I have seen people roll them up tight, with solid .035 or bigger it's not as much of an issue but small Flux core especially can't push through a kink very well.And pulling the cart around by the lead is a bad idea.The top two places a liner kinks is at the gun and at the machine.But nearly every time it's at the gun so don't hang the gun on a hook.The way you store or lay the lead during down time is where the lead and gun flow together like on a table or the welder it self.
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I have never pulled the machine around by the lead. This thing is really starting to frustrate me...
 
Weldaid/ Lube-matic-pads are great. I sell a ton of it and the guys like the results. A new liner would likely help you. And both Lincoln and Miller have youtube tutorials that can help you a lot. I don't know where you are, but find an Airgas location near you. I can tell you where it is if you tell me where you are. We can hook you up with all the help and advice you need.
CO2 will be a dirtier weld. A lot more soot/smoke when welding. good for exhaust type work, not as good as 75/25 for body work or frame type steel. I take it you are welding indoors???
 
I'm not completely sure about the smaller welders but the contacts I mentioned should be the only moving part inside the welder when you hit the trigger the contacts close.Unplug the welder (obviously) and make sure they are not carbon arced or rusty, this is the power that melts the metal so it needs a solid "contact".Also a liner doesn't have to be kinked to "drag" the main reason for failed liners is gunk build up.If it set out the liner may be rusty or gunked up.I would check the liner, contacts and feed wheel before buying anything.You said only one feed wheel for .023-.035 wire.That should have two grooves one on each side.Unless it is V'ed that will scare the edges of the bigger wire.But if that's all there is use it just don't over tighten it on the small wire, it will try to pinch into the groove.
 
Kinda lost track here. Doug have you checked that the voltage is correct polarity? I believe mine was reversed for flux core, I seem to remember having to switch mine

You want the torch positive polarity, and the ground clamp neg. for shield gas
 
67Dart273 said:
I believe you'd have to have the valve changed to a CO2 valve. If you are interested, I'd just look for a CO2 bottle and keep the mix "for when you need it"

No need for a different regulator for the Co2, there is an adapter to use the same regulator.

My take is that the mix is less spatter, and probably works better on lighter stuff.
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^^ That is correct, the straight Co2 would be used for heavier welding (thicker steel) for more penetration.
 
WoodenNickle said:
Weldaid/ Lube-matic-pads are great. I sell a ton of it and the guys like the results. A new liner would likely help you. And both Lincoln and Miller have youtube tutorials that can help you a lot. I don't know where you are, but find an Airgas location near you. I can tell you where it is if you tell me where you are. We can hook you up with all the help and advice you need.
CO2 will be a dirtier weld. A lot more soot/smoke when welding. good for exhaust type work, not as good as 75/25 for body work or frame type steel. I take it you are welding indoors???
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I am near Spokane Washington...zip is 99013 if that helps....

mopar410 said:
I'm not completely sure about the smaller welders but the contacts I mentioned should be the only moving part inside the welder when you hit the trigger the contacts close.Unplug the welder (obviously) and make sure they are not carbon arced or rusty, this is the power that melts the metal so it needs a solid "contact".Also a liner doesn't have to be kinked to "drag" the main reason for failed liners is gunk build up.If it set out the liner may be rusty or gunked up.I would check the liner, contacts and feed wheel before buying anything.You said only one feed wheel for .023-.035 wire.That should have two grooves one on each side.Unless it is V'ed that will scare the edges of the bigger wire.But if that's all there is use it just don't over tighten it on the small wire, it will try to pinch into the groove.
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There is indeed only one wheel. When I get home tomorrow I will run outside and take a picture of the wheel. I believe it is V'ed...The line has recently been replaced.....so it has not sat outside since being replaced.

67Dart273 said:
Kinda lost track here. Doug have you checked that the voltage is correct polarity? I believe mine was reversed for flux core, I seem to remember having to switch mine

You want the torch positive polarity, and the ground clamp neg. for shield gas
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It is indeed correct....
 
Have a hard time believing it is. Run some wire out the end of the gun.

View attachment IMG_4218 (Medium).jpg
Cut it off at the 1 inch mark.....grab it with a pair of cutters and push it back into the gun

View attachment IMG_4220 (Medium).jpg

on mine the wire will move back about 3/8 of an inch....

View attachment IMG_4221 (Medium).jpg

give it a pull the other direction and it will move out to just about the 1 1/16" mark....


When it is turned up it welds like a champ. Turn it down and not so much. When I had the .035 wire in it the thing was an absolute pain in the a** to use. First time I went use it up here I replaced the liner with a new .035 one and bought a spool of .035 wire. If you tried to weld anything under 1/4" with you ended up with a mess. I bought the .023 liner and wire just as an experiment. Solved the problem on thicker stuff thanks to turning the feeder up. But now on anything thin it is more than a bit challenging....
 
Play is normal as long as you can't pull the wire out more with little effort.If you can then the wheel is slipping.
Describe "challenging".Is your thin metal galvanil or rusty.Fluxcore pops more and has more spatter so thinner stuff is harder to make look good.i don't think its the liner from what you have said but I would check the contacts.Also make sure the guide on each side of the feed wheel are clean.
 
Metal is mild steel. Believe it is called "open metal", no rust/oil. Base metal is 3/16" mild steel, no rust/oil. Be welding along,beautiful looking bead, good penetration. Split second later open metal vaporizes, or weld gets really heavy looking, or very porse. Mig gin is same distance/angle. I also get a lot of burn back while trying to establish an arc. Like I mentioned earlier, seems like the feeder is pulsing slightly.
Going to take the machine apart today to see if everything is clean/tight. Will try to take a video with my phone as well.
I do have the feed tension cranked up quite a bit. Could this be part of the problem? Tension on spool is set so that it does not have a belly in it between the spool and feed wheels.
 
WoodenNickle said:
Weldaid/ Lube-matic-pads are great. I sell a ton of it and the guys like the results. A new liner would likely help you. And both Lincoln and Miller have youtube tutorials that can help you a lot. I don't know where you are, but find an Airgas location near you. I can tell you where it is if you tell me where you are. We can hook you up with all the help and advice you need.
CO2 will be a dirtier weld. A lot more soot/smoke when welding. good for exhaust type work, not as good as 75/25 for body work or frame type steel. I take it you are welding indoors???
Click to expand...
Nearest Airgas is 90 miles or so...
 
inkjunkie said:
I do have the feed tension cranked up quite a bit. Could this be part of the problem?
Click to expand...

It could, I had it too tight on my other welder, and if the spool hung up for a nano second, it would leave a flat spot on the wire causing it to feed erratically.
 
The spool tension may be too tight and if it hangs a little it causes the wire to surge.I set mine at home and work (when I was a welder) so the spool spins by hand VERY easy.Tight enough that the spool doesn't unwind when the trigger is released.As Bad Sport said if the feeder wheel is too tight it can flat spot the wire and if the wire burns back to the tip a tight wheel can cause the wire to wad up in the gun or at the wheel and waste wire by forcing the wire through with no where to go.
What you described sounds like dragging/surgeing wire but don't rule out something on the inside getting hot and failing.
 
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