All 7 bolts are in the housing and tight. I took a video of the bellhousing alignment. Looks like the side to side bore has an issue or am I looking at it wrong. Where do I go from here?
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That will work. If the hole is "dead" round then you need to make sure that the back surface of the bell is parallel to the back of the block. If the back surface of the bell is not parallel to the block then the bell might have been machined improperly which will make the hole in the bell indicate like an oval. You already have the set-up, just move your indicator to the back surface of the bell to check for parallelism. If the "back" bell surface is parallel to the back of the block and the hole is round go to step 3.Center of the flywheel
Good luck, we have seen FABO members who have found that the back of their block is not perpendicular to the crank bore, hope yours is not that way???At the moment I don't have a mic to check the hole roundness. I will see what I can round up. I will check the back of the bellhousing for squareness tomorrow.
I have .014” offset dowels in at the moment.That looks typical of some of the engine/bell combos I have indicated.
For a one time install, I just take out the pins, loosen the bolts slightly, tap the bell into alignment and torque the bolts. It may be 120,000 miles or 20 years before you have to go back in there.
But on a car you may be taking the trans out 5 times in one summer (yeah I did that; three times in one week even), well then you need to get the alignment pin kit and do it right.
.004 (parallel) is really good on the back face of the bell!! If you got it within .005 on the concentricity you're probably as close as your gonna get. Did you have to remove the alignment pins??I forgot the video. But I got it down to .005” tolerance. The parallel measurement is .004” off on one side. Would this be acceptable?
I would install it without dowels and only 3 bolts just to see if you can tap it around until it centers up???