Bench Seat Clearance issue

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wes beem

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Howdy, I recently installed my factory bench seat in the 71 Duster and even slid all the way back im still too close to the steering wheel (im fat)

I need about 1-2" more of clearance to be comfortable, has anyone ever come up with a simple way to move a bench seat back further?
 
Howdy, I recently installed my factory bench seat in the 71 Duster and even slid all the way back im still too close to the steering wheel (im fat)

I need about 1-2" more of clearance to be comfortable, has anyone ever come up with a simple way to move a bench seat back further?
Can also go with smaller steering wheel
 
Howdy, I recently installed my factory bench seat in the 71 Duster and even slid all the way back im still too close to the steering wheel (im fat)

I need about 1-2" more of clearance to be comfortable, has anyone ever come up with a simple way to move a bench seat back further?
Just like in the other thread, the answer is the same. The seat relocation brackets from Year One. I put some in Vixen. They work well.
 
The dealer use to put a spacer under the front studs to lay the seat back. That is why the studs are so long for adjustment. You can raise the whole seat or lean it front or rear,. I used a hole saw and made some out of different thicknesses of plywood for a customer. I copied the diameter of the factory fiberglass spacers and painted them black. Use a small o-ring or rubber band on the threads to hold them in place while installing the seat
 
Just like in the other thread, the answer is the same. The seat relocation brackets from Year One. I put some in Vixen. They work well.
i saw them but i dont really understand how they work, and couldnt find any instructions
 
No too sure why whoever it was disagrees with me, but here’s a link to some brackets.

I’ve done it to a A Few cars as I’m tall an need leg room. Works good.

1966-74 A B E-Body Universal Seat Relocation Brackets

this sort of explained the process
Seat relocation brackets installation instructions.
After looking at them I like them. You can always return the studs to the seat if needed and they retain the hole position in the floor which is braced from the factory. Not a bad idea at all
 
I just had the same problem with the factory buckets in a 70 Dart I am finishing up. The studs that run through the floor are installed in square holes in the track. There are multiple square holes and the studs can be moved forward, which moves the seat back. Only difficulty I had was that the square on the studs are swaged in place. I had to take a little hand held grinder with a pointed abrasive bit and slowly grind the swaged part away until I could knock them out. Once moved I put a round push on washer on the stud and ran a nut on to snug it down, removed the nut and ready to go. Square holes were about an inch apart
 
Well I'm half blind and I figured it out. All he has to do is look at the plates it's so obvious.


Rusty,
It seems obvious that the OP is uncomfortable buying a "Pig in a Poke" and the information that the seller is providing is not leaving him feeling well informed. Since you have used this system, maybe you could describe how it works. You might even have some pictures from your use of this.
 
Rusty,
It seems obvious that the OP is uncomfortable buying a "Pig in a Poke" and the information that the seller is providing is not leaving him feeling well informed. Since you have used this system, maybe you could describe how it works. You might even have some pictures from your use of this.
That exactly...my bench seat is installed in the car. I know it has fixed long studs on the bottom so common sense would dictate they HAVE to pass through the floor. So i dont see how a flat piece of steel with some holes in it would work. Also dont want to pull a 1000$ freshly upholstered vench seat out of the car and risk screwing it up without doing some due dilligence and seeing if this system is even a thing i would want to use.
 
That exactly...my bench seat is installed in the car. I know it has fixed long studs on the bottom so common sense would dictate they HAVE to pass through the floor. So i dont see how a flat piece of steel with some holes in it would work. Also dont want to pull a 1000$ freshly upholstered vench seat out of the car and risk screwing it up without doing some due dilligence and seeing if this system is even a thing i would want to use.
Would it help you if I took pictures of mine? I'll be glad to. You'll see what I'm talking about then and how simple it is. I wasn't trying to be insulting....just funny. Sorry if it didn't come across that way. As usual, AJ should mind his own business.
 
that would actually help, and no worries, i have thick skin...I was a fat kid in Grade school LOL!
 
that would actually help, and no worries, i have thick skin...I was a fat kid in Grade school LOL!
I wasn't fat, but I was the kid everybody picked on. I'll see if I can get some good shots in the dark. If not, I'll post some tomorrow.
 
Here, I did better than pictures. I found the deestruckshuns. If you need pictures of mine, I'll be glad too. Only thing, I cannot remember if I laid the carpet over them or not. If I did, you really won't be able to tell anything, but in the meantime, see if this helps.
SEAT BRACKET DEESTRUCKSHUNS.png
 
One suggestion, if you look under the car you will see that the studs go through braces as well as the sheet metal of the floor. If you move the stud location back, the new holes will be outside of those braces. Restoring function would mean you need a "big *** washer" (BAW - that's a technical term) so that the studs have no chance of being pulled up through the sheet metal of the floor in the event of an accident. Take your stud nuts to the hardware store. This replaces the function of the brace in the system. Since the brace also stabilizes the rocker panel, the bolt through the provided metal bar clamps it to the floorpan like your original seat stud. Maybe the kit actually has BAWs provided?
 
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