best distributor for the buck

[RustyRatRod]

i've never shopped these pieces.The summit catalogue has a confusing selection
but individually the MSD distributors and control boxes price out around $250 +or - each
no?

It depends on which distributor you want. Their ready to run vacuum advance unit is about a hundred dollars more than your posted price. The Summit version of the same thing is about 250.

250-350 dollars is a LOT of money for JUST a distributor when you can upgrade a stock one with the HEI swap and a curve kit from FBO. Financially, it's a no brainer.

And talking about how the HEI breaks up at 7K RPM. That's hilarious. How many of us will really see those RPMs? If we're honest, probably not many at all. Besides, there are performance HEI modules available that will fire just fine beyond 7K if you just want the big bench racin bragging balls. That's about all they're worth to most people.

 

[mech1nxh]

Oh come on dude, you know the mullet is the fashion rage right now. Business in the front, party in the back LOL. BTW i get that West Texas sunburn on my neck every summer even though i am not a fan of camaros in 4x4 form , does the neck still make me a Redneck

Laugh My Everlovin Gearhead *** off...

I just researched Your Flag...

Yea that's it We are talking about Electron Flow,
--- Proxy--- Nikola Tesla is Wrong...

Laugh My Everlovin Gearhead *** off...

 

[moparmat2000]

250-350 dollars is a LOT of money for JUST a distributor when you can upgrade a stock one with the HEI swap and a curve kit from FBO. Financially, it's a no brainer.

And talking about how the HEI breaks up at 7K RPM. That's hilarious. How many of us will really see those RPMs? If we're honest, probably not many at all. Besides, there are performance HEI modules available that will fire just fine beyond 7K if you just want the big bench racin bragging balls. That's about all they're worth to most people.[/QUOTE]

I agree the mopar distributor w HEI upgrade is cheap n good for most apps you will find on this forum. Thats why im doing this as well. I also noted that these engines in streetable modified form max out power wise typically at 5,500rpm. Which makes the stock HEI modules peaking at 7K just fine. Rusty, i mentioned the 7k on stock modules in my original post, since most people doing this are not going to see 7,000 rpms.

If your a purist and a drag racer with a high rpm engine a gold box with a 1.4 ohm resistor works great at high rpms too Or as rusty mentioned put a high perf HEI module in

Yep my flag is Poland. I like to be funny that way. Actually I'm half Polish half Italian. However since I'm born in the great U.S. of A. I am 100% American Texan.

I will let y'all in on a secret tho, shhhhh dont tell anyone. Not even johnny dart. I am the owner of that sweet camaro 4x4 he posted on this thread. Just joking !!!! LOL.!!!! Being i am a mopar guy, i actually prefer 69 charger bodies on top of dodge ramcharger chassis with the prerequisite HEI module hack job install of course.

Matt

 

[Abodybomber]

No one asked what I thought about MSD, but I'm going to tell you anyway.
I think that's a shootload of money for the pretty red stuff with the MSD logo on it when there are so many totally functional ignition system combinations for so much less.
And if something ever quits I don't want to find out it's on order and wait for it for days.

We had this discussion,at Carl's. Doesn't make any sense, just use what's commonly available.

 

[ir3333]

..Ignitions are one of my many weak areas.
i have always made do with the mopar electronic unit...welding the slots,changing the springs and adjusting the vacuum advance,using auto parts house 7mm wires and a $20 coil.
I had one Mopar orange ecu fail but other than that they all worked fine.
my engines very rarely see 6000 rpm

 

[stroked340]

No one asked what I thought about MSD, but I'm going to tell you anyway.
I think that's a shootload of money for the pretty red stuff with the MSD logo on it when there are so many totally functional ignition system combinations for so much less.
And if something ever quits I don't want to find out it's on order and wait for it for days.

Bottom line the pretty red expensive stuff works,and is well worth the money spent,and i've never had a failure using the system on more then a few cars...

 

[moparmat2000]

..Ignitions are one of my many weak areas.
i have always made do with the mopar electronic unit...welding the slots,changing the springs and adjusting the vacuum advance,using auto parts house 7mm wires and a $20 coil.
I had one Mopar orange ecu fail but other than that they all worked fine.
my engines very rarely see 6000 rpm

Check out 4secondsflat.com , and take a look at their mopar distributor recurve disc kit i bet you will never weld up slots again.

 

[Abodybomber]

Check out 4secondsflat.com , and take a look at their mopar distributor recurve disc kit i bet you will never weld up slots again.

Absolutely... If it's known & good,why not use it?.. Unless you have a spectacularly different combo,(most street combos need near the same..) take advantage.

 

[BillGrissom]

First, I don't see discussing HEI modules as a high-jack of a distributor question, as Johnny suggested. That is a great way to use a Mopar electronic distributor w/o having to rely on older ballast-required ECU's (like 70's Mopar orange box). It is the only choice for a slant six, since there is no ready-to-run distributor for it.

Re the connector issue in post #63, I took parts from a 85-95 GM V-8 truck, including all connectors (~$15), but you can buy new parts from TrailBeast here ($150) if scared of junkyards. That is the 8-pin HEI module, which has rugged sealed weather-pack connectors. One GM cable connects module to GM e-core coil, so "easy". For the mating double-bullet connector for Mopar distributor, best to use a Mopar connector. A standard appliance style double-bullet will give an erratic connection since the male terminal is shorter. I even ran across Mopar pickups with that incorrect connector (darn Chinese). Connect that to the special GM mag pickup connector that you snipped. You have a 50/50 chance on polarity. Follow post #63, but confirm w/ timing light (should flash when reluctor teeth align). For more tech info, go to the megasquirt site.

 

[tarvin890]

uh oh sure are alot of people accussing other people of hi jacking threads when they dont like what someone else says... what gives? this is discussion right?

 

[TrailBeast]

uh oh sure are alot of people accussing other people of hi jacking threads when they dont like what someone else says... what gives? this is discussion right?

What gives is I have sold three HEI conversion kits since this "discussion" started.

It happens every time someone jumps in all upset about modding to it.

 

[Jay_340]

I guess Johnny dart thinks all HEI module installs are hack jobs done by rednecks. heres the pix of my stock dizzy after i overhauled it, and added the HEI to it. first pic was right after i rebuilt it.

if your gonna do one of these brackets, i recommend dissassembling the distributor first, as you will have to tap the 2 drain holes for 8-32 countersunk mounting screws. and remove some casting flash on the distributor where the bracket has to sit. the holes are correct sized to just go at it with a tap. i modded my housing while i had it all apart for the rebuild, then added another drain hole opposite of the module.

Hey Johnny, you can keep your weak spark mopar module hobbled by a 6V ballast resistor. i know better. i still recommend you try an HEI 4 pin setup on your mopar, you may be surprised. BTW you seem to think these are all hack job installs check out the pix of mine. The remaining 2 module pins go to coil + and - a NAPA GM alternator plug with black and red wires plugs in perfectly on this end. i will be running a cylindrical pertronix ignitor 3 coil which has similar ohms resistance as the GM E coil. this will appear close to stock in my car. instead of just connecting the ballast resistor wires together, i even hollowed out the ballast resistor removing the resistor wire and installing a 10 gage wire inside the ceramic housing, turning it into a 12V jumper so it appears as if its still a ballast resistor.

for those of you who like the HEI module mounting bracket.

i got it at www.designed2drive.com

Nathan of designed2drive makes a great product that fills this need. i made the adaptor plug on my dizzy myself. I guess according to Johnny dart, maybe its time to put in my billybob teeth and grow a mullet

Matt

This is the exact setup I have on my 360 Duster, which replaced an Orange box setup. No changes to timing or the curve. Did it add 20hp? No. Was there a noticeable improvement in response. Definitely.

 

[moparmat2000]

What gives is I have sold three HEI conversion kits since this "discussion" started.

It happens every time someone jumps in all upset about modding to it.

Cool deal trailbeast

 

[RustyRatRod]

What gives is I have sold three HEI conversion kits since this "discussion" started.

It happens every time someone jumps in all upset about modding to it.

Awesome. I MAY well end up getting a kit from you for the Hemi. I am trying to decide which way to go on it. I don't have a small block distributor. That's my only hang up. If I could find a cheap used one......

 

[RustyRatRod]

Also I think the point here is run what you want to run. If you want to spend 500 plus bucks on MSD stuff, go for it. But no need to bash someone else for their choice not to do the same. That's just childish.

 

[crackedback]

Also I think the point here is run what you want to run. If you want to spend 500 plus bucks on MSD stuff, go for it. But no need to bash someone else for their choice not to do the same. That's just childish.

Give that man a prize. My thoughts EXACTLY!!!

If what was good back in the day was good enough now, then we'd all be running purple cams, pinion snubbers, total timing only, AVS carbs, BB 906 heads and any number of other things that have been either debunked or better quality products have emerged.

My own experience with MP ignition products are ones I'd rather forget. If I wanted a part that would fail, need a ballast, retard timing as rpm increase and poorer idle/start quality than an alternative solution, sign me up!

This thread is a great example of why I don't post much anymore in this place.

 

[TrailBeast]

I'm sure you all have noticed I never until right now said one word about selling them, and the sentiment RRR posted above is exactly why.
I don't want to push/convince anyone into anything, but I do want them to have all the available options at hand so they don't overlook something they might have not known about.
The HEI kits speak for themselves probably better than I could ever explain. (without it sounding like a obvious giant BS sales pitch)
Please correct me if I am wrong, but out of all the HEI kits I have sold we had ONE failure after the buyer installed it.
Also not ONE person unhappy with it.

 

[moparmat2000]

I'm sure you all have noticed I never until right now said one word about selling them, and the sentiment RRR posted above is exactly why.
I don't want to push/convince anyone into anything, but I do want them to have all the available options at hand so they don't overlook something they might have not known about.
The HEI kits speak for themselves probably better than I could ever explain. (without it sounding like a obvious giant BS sales pitch)
Please correct me if I am wrong, but out of all the HEI kits I have sold we had ONE failure after the buyer installed it.
Also not ONE person unhappy with it.

Trailbeast, thats exactly the point i was trying to make too. I think its better to have more information than less on a subject when making a decision like this, especially since it can get expensive.

 

[hollywood hig]

What gives is I have sold three HEI conversion kits since this "discussion" started.

It happens every time someone jumps in all upset about modding to it.

lol, good for u man, i'm glad someone is bennefitting from this thread!

Also I think the point here is run what you want to run. If you want to spend 500 plus bucks on MSD stuff, go for it. But no need to bash someone else for their choice not to do the same. That's just childish.

well said rob.........

Give that man a prize. My thoughts EXACTLY!!!

If what was good back in the day was good enough now, then we'd all be running purple cams, pinion snubbers, total timing only, AVS carbs, BB 906 heads and any number of other things that have been either debunked or better quality products have emerged.

My own experience with MP ignition products are ones I'd rather forget. If I wanted a part that would fail, need a ballast, retard timing as rpm increase and poorer idle/start quality than an alternative solution, sign me up!

This thread is a great example of why I don't post much anymore in this place.

it's unfortunate that guys w/great knowledge don't post up here anymore because things get out of hand.

it's a shame........

fact is there all kinds of different ways to go on ignition mods.....just depends on what u want to do and how much u would like to spend.
higgs

 

[540Valiant]

Here is the fbo box! Not to be confused with the Rev-n-ator! Shane

 

[moparmat2000]

Give that man a prize. My thoughts EXACTLY!!!

If what was good back in the day was good enough now, then we'd all be running purple cams, pinion snubbers, total timing only, AVS carbs, BB 906 heads and any number of other things that have been either debunked or better quality products have emerged.

My own experience with MP ignition products are ones I'd rather forget. If I wanted a part that would fail, need a ballast, retard timing as rpm increase and poorer idle/start quality than an alternative solution, sign me up!

This thread is a great example of why I don't post much anymore in this place.

Dude, you have lots of great ideas, and such. You shouldent feel that way about not posting because of the piss ants that dont get along. I enjoy reading what you have to post. Some stuff i use, some stuff i have gone different directions, this site is a wealth of good information because folks like you post on it.

 

[mopowers]

Do you guys with HEIs run them off a relay from the battery, or just use a switched 12v from the ignition key?

 

[AJ/FormS]

Whatever you get,get vacuum advance.

Now thats the smart answer!
Fuththermore, get a dizzy with a top-side adjustable advance mech. It will save you hours and hours of work.
That limiter disc seems like a pretty good alternative to welding and filing, and an excellent alternative to expensive assys.

 

[moparmat2000]

Do you guys with HEIs run them off a relay from the battery, or just use a switched 12v from the ignition key?

Switched 12 v off the key. Remove ballast, attach both wires together. You can get a little male-male spade and a bit of electrical tape just plug em together. After that just wire the module up.

Matt

 

[TrailBeast]

Do you guys with HEIs run them off a relay from the battery, or just use a switched 12v from the ignition key?

Same as Matt.
My wiring is in pretty good condition, so with a quick voltage check I decided without the relay should be fine and it is.
Mine is all soldered in and heat shrink wrapped.