Best Oil for: Four Barrel 340 V8, 4BBL

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Vloshko

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Hello, here are a few things that may help:

1. It just underwent a complete nut and bolt restoration (18 miles on the clock), you read that correctly :) .
2. Picture of the engine here (for a larger version of the uploaded picture below) : http://imgur.com/gallery/tPNYpim/


Other than that I use the car primarily outside San Francisco California, however I will eventually use it during the summertime near Aspen, Colorado (7,000+ feet) I was wondering if you could tell me which Two Oils I should use for each location that will benefit my engine the most.

Thank you.
 

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Royal Purple products work - they're expensive, but I think they're worth it.. their web site has pretty good info and will guide you to the right choice..
 
ScampMike said:
Royal Purple products work - they're expensive, but I think they're worth it.. their web site has pretty good info and will guide you to the right choice..
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Should I go with a break-in oil as well like thesiren74 said above you? If so, should I use it until the bottle is done, or switch it over to Royal Purple HPS oil before then?
 
ScampMike said:
so you had the car restored and they just gave it back and said thanks, good luck - see ya? go here http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/contact/ call them, I am sure they will point you in the right direction. Also, ANY engine rebuild book with have break in procedures in it.
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Actually my father had it restored, kept it in a garage in SF, used it often, then about 2 weeks after the restoration and while in the garage he had a heart attack. I literally just inherited the vehicle in his will and want to learn as much as I can about it since it was his baby and my mechanical brother. *edit: Brother I knew little to nothing about.
 
read this [ame]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/atk%20engine%20break%20in.pdf[/ame]
 
You need to learn if your engine has what is called a 'flat tappet' cam. It probably does, and will certainly be so if it was restored to original condition. If so, then you need to learn about keeping adequate levels of ZDDP in the engine oil. (ZDDP is a zinc compound that has been added to oil for decades to help the cams and lifters last a long time.) You can do a lot of searches on ZDDP to get info on that.
 
Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 and I like to pour the camshaft break-in oil (Lucas; O'reilly's sells it) right on top the cam while rotating the engine by hand. If the intake is already on, I'd just pour some of the Lucas break-in oil into the filter, and the rest in the engine. Should be fine.
 
Your question is a bit confusing.

Are you saying the car has already been started, and driven for 18 miles ?

Or the engine was rebuilt, and has never been started ?
 
Johnny Dart said:
Your question is a bit confusing.

Are you saying the car has already been started, and driven for 18 miles ?

Or the engine was rebuilt, and has never been started ?
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When he had it rebuilt it was done in Georgia, then shipped back to California, I believe from where it was unloaded he drove it back home 18 miles. So yes the car has already been started, however I thought that with so little mileage I could simply change the oil and put something else in to promote longer and/or better life of the vehicle. Am I mistaken?
 
Maybe it'd be good to talk to the folks who restored it. They could tell you not only what parts were in it but maybe even if they already broke it in.
 
I've been using Amsoil products in everything I have with great results - street and race.
 

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I use straight 30 weight VR-1 Valvoline. Works great! Also 30 Castrol or Pennzoil is ok but with zinc additive. Also I hear Mobil 1 15/50 full synthetic has good zinc content.O:)
 
Everybody has their favorite oil. Mine happens to be Valvoline but almost any brand name oil now days will do the trick. Regular, semi synthetic, or full synthetic can provide the lubrication, cooling, and cleaning that your engine needs. If it's a street car with tighter bearing clearances, most lighter weights will do. If it's a race engine with loose clearances then heavier weights are recommended. If you have a roller cam you really don't need a zinc additive. If you have a flat tappet solid or hydraulic cam I would suggest a ZDDP additive just to be safe.
 
Try these web sites www.enginelabs.com , www.badasscars.com ,or www.bobistheoilguy.com . Choosing the right oil for your engine shouldn't be taken lightly,with so many brands, viscosities ,additives , and types (ash based ,paraffin based and there's the synthetics ). Google choosing the right oil for high performance engines and educate yourself so you can make the right choice. Good luck
 
hotrod426 said:
Try these web sites www.enginelabs.com , www.badasscars.com ,or www.bobistheoilguy.com . Choosing the right oil for your engine shouldn't be taken lightly,with so many brands, viscosities ,additives , and types (ash based ,paraffin based and there's the synthetics ). Google choosing the right oil for high performance engines and educate yourself so you can make the right choice. Good luck
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Over the weekend I hope to read all the articles you provided links for. I just read the Engine Labs article and I feel confident that what I simply stated is true according to the article. The original poster of this thread has a stock built 340 in a restored car that will get limited driving and occasional hot rodding. I really wouldn't consider it a "high performance engine" and high performance or racing oil is not necessary. ZDDP additive is probably most important to combat camshaft and valve train wear. As I stated, a street engine built with tighter bearing clearances can use a thinner oil with ZDDP additive. Depending on how many miles he drives, how hard he drives, and how efficient the engine is (or how quickly the oil gets dirty) will tell you how often it gets changed. Not knowing all the OP's details, I would say a 10/30 with ZDDP additive changed every 2-3000 miles would be just fine.
 
Toolmanmike all I'm suggesting to our pal Vloshko is to do a little research so he's comfortable taking someone's advice. Other than that I would agree with what your saying.
 
Thanks for the links. They are a very interesting information.
 
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