best soaking carb cleaner?

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There is none. I soda blast mine now.
 
Rapid Robert said:
how do you get to the inside passages with that?
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Aerosol spray and hope. If you're just dying to get a soak style cleaner, get the Berryman. The EPA cut the balls off all of it years ago but I think the Berryman is "a little" better. I'd still spray out the inside passages with a good aerosol cleaner.
 
1966Post said:
Ultrasonic cleaners work great. Amazing what comes out of what you think was fairly clean already
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Yup.. I bought an ultrasonic tank four years ago, cleans as well as the old dip tanks without destroying the finish... Gets all the passages clean... Carbs that wouldn't run right after soaking & kitting suddenly have a new lease on life...
 
1WildRT said:
Yup.. I bought an ultrasonic tank four years ago, cleans as well as the old dip tanks without destroying the finish... Gets all the passages clean... Carbs that wouldn't run right after soaking & kitting suddenly have a new lease on life...
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What do you put in for the cleaning fluid? Is it heated? How long does it take to do its thing? What ultrasonic did you buy, brand and model number?
 
I bought a 5 gallon pail of the berrymans. It works decent but takes a lot longer than the old stuff did.
I still have a couple gallons of some from around 25 years ago. You could soak a carb for an hour and it came out like new. The new stuff takes a couple days.
 
RustyRatRod said:
There is none. I soda blast mine now.
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RustyRatRod said:
I have one. It doesn't do chit.
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correct on both accounts from my experience but, my sonic cleaner is a harbor freight special. I tried pinesol and super purple or what ever it is called. There was dirt on the tank floor, but the carb was still dirty. One may have better luck with a higher grade model though. All carb dips are methyene chloride. Paint stripper and it doesn’t clean the green meanies off. I got pissed after the third dip so I left the carb in the dip for a week. It ate away the casting. Good thing it was a worthless carb, that time I was smart enough to experiment before I dipped a good carb in.
Now I worked in a motor cycle shop for a summer a few years ago and I swear the good dip is dicloromethane but I’m just not sure. You can get a 5 gallon pail of that stuff at a chemical supply warehouse but is not cheap and how do you dipose of it after your done? Its damn nasty ****, rubber gloves and respiratory nasty. But most of all I’m just not sure thats the stuff. And I don’t need the department of homeland security showing up instead of a 5 gallon pail of it, you know what I mean.
 
Was that ultrasonic cleaner a tupper wear bowl on a compressor? My ultrasonic cleaner (jewelry size but could take a metering block) used a cleaning powder. No heat. The ultrasonics uses high frequencies to cavitate the water and the microscopic bursting bubbles do the scrubbing. a little Simple green would not hurt.
 
I read in another thread that the simple green turns the carbs black before they are clean.
 
bob is the oil guy recipe for a dip:
1. = Parts gasoline
1. = Parts diesel / kerosene
1. = Part MEK or Acetone
.5 = Parts auto trans fluid Be careful .

It is toxic and VERY flammable

Pine-Sol doesnt work. MEK is nasty stuff, use outdoors, wear nitrile gloves and then seal the vat.
IIRC pine sol actually ate my Carter boosters after 3 days, turned them to sliver porous sponges. The new Berrymans (CA formula?) isnt worth it. The old stuff will turn a gold Holley gray.
 
ch1ll said:
correct on both accounts from my experience but, my sonic cleaner is a harbor freight special. I tried pinesol and super purple or what ever it is called. There was dirt on the tank floor, but the carb was still dirty. One may have better luck with a higher grade model though. All carb dips are methyene chloride. Paint stripper and it doesn’t clean the green meanies off. I got pissed after the third dip so I left the carb in the dip for a week. It ate away the casting. Good thing it was a worthless carb, that time I was smart enough to experiment before I dipped a good carb in.
Now I worked in a motor cycle shop for a summer a few years ago and I swear the good dip is dicloromethane but I’m just not sure. You can get a 5 gallon pail of that stuff at a chemical supply warehouse but is not cheap and how do you dipose of it after your done? Its damn nasty ****, rubber gloves and respiratory nasty. But most of all I’m just not sure thats the stuff. And I don’t need the department of homeland security showing up instead of a 5 gallon pail of it, you know what I mean.
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I have tried everything. Water, pine sol, purple stuff, simple green and on and on and on. Tried preheating, not preheating, you name it. It passed the tin foil test.....with flying colors. The **** just don't work.
 
I bought an older version of this one...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRF4KJF/?tag=fabo03-20

I start with straight hot water from my tap & I set the heat to it's max heat setting which on my unit is 200 degrees Fahrenheit, I let the unit heat the solution for 4-6 hours till it gets up to full temperature...

I use a commercial automotive cleaner sold by Automagic called 713, it is similar to Simple Green.... Or not, it doesn't effect aluminum, it just cleans it..

Once up to temp I put the carb in the tank & turn on the sonic function typically for 30-45 minutes...

Pull the carb out as soon as it times out & rinse... It should be good but if not back in the tank for more time...

Do not let the tank cool before pulling the parts out, the crud will just reattach itself to the part..

Plus if it's not clean enough you'd have to re-heat... Once the solution cools it takes for ever to get back up to temp & it's never as effective once re-heated...
 
1WildRT said:
I bought an older version of this one...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRF4KJF/?tag=fabo03-20

I start with straight hot water from my tap & I set the heat to it's max heat setting which on my unit is 200 degrees Fahrenheit, I let the unit heat the solution for 4-6 hours till it gets up to full temperature...

I use a commercial automotive cleaner sold by Automagic called 713, it is similar to Simple Green.... Or not, it doesn't effect aluminum, it just cleans it..

Once up to temp I put the carb in the tank & turn on the sonic function typically for 30-45 minutes...

Pull the carb out as soon as it times out & rinse... It should be good but if not back in the tank for more time...

Do not let the tank cool before pulling the parts out, the crud will just reattach itself to the part..

Plus if it's not clean enough you'd have to re-heat... Once the solution cools it takes for ever to get back up to temp & it's never as effective once re-heated...
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That looks identical to mine. It'll fit a Holley dominator in it, but won't do chit but get it wet.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That looks identical to mine. It'll fit a Holley dominator in it, but won't do chit but get it wet.
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We get it, now let others share their experience.


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dadsbee said:
Simple Green is not aluminum safe...
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Not long after it came on the market, it didn't take long for the FAA to put out the notification to "not" use simple green on aircraft, bare aluminum, it water spots like hell and promotes corrosion. We can always tell when one of our customers (airplane owner's) never got the word. You have to watch out for Dawn liquid...it's rough on bare aluminum also.
 
I thought laquer thinner was an option from back in the day.

Seem to recall reading it in a FSM IIRC
 
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