Big Block Oil Pans...

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72Duster440

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I currently have a Milodan 7 quart pan on the 440 installed in my Duster. I'm in the process of redoing the suspension and noticed that the pan is very close to the ground with the ride height I want. I sticks considerably lower than my k member. What pans are most of you running and how much clearance to the ground do you have? Mine is currently under 3" and I feel that is too low, are there any good options out there?
 
I currently have a Milodan 7 quart pan on the 440 installed in my Duster. I'm in the process of redoing the suspension and noticed that the pan is very close to the ground with the ride height I want. I sticks considerably lower than my k member. What pans are most of you running and how much clearance to the ground do you have? Mine is currently under 3" and I feel that is too low, are there any good options out there?

this pan is spendy but it is a very very nice piece. i have it on my dart and it is above the front suspension

Milodon Road Race Oil Pans 31580
 
I use the original 893 pan.
 

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I have run a hemi pan, the 402 Road Runner pan, and the original 893 A body pan. But, I have an original 68 383 Barracuda. The Hemi pan sticks below the K frame.
 
I just received a gold center sump pan from 440Source part#121-1030 7quart but I am not done with the engine yet. 440Source said it should work with an aftermarket k member like from QA1. That's what I am going with. Don't know if you want to upgrade to aftermarket k member but that's my 2cents.
 
I'd like to upgrade to an aftermarket K member, but it's not in the budget this year. Would there be any disadvantage of running a stock pan vs the Miloden pan?

And I assume the motor has to come out to swap oil pans?
 
I'd like to upgrade to an aftermarket K member, but it's not in the budget this year. Would there be any disadvantage of running a stock pan vs the Miloden pan?

And I assume the motor has to come out to swap oil pans?

you could disconnect the center link and unbolt the engine mounts, pull the engine up a few inches with a hoist and swap it out pretty easily.
 
this pan is spendy but it is a very very nice piece. i have it on my dart and it is above the front suspension

Milodon Road Race Oil Pans 31580

MIL-31580_800_zpstwwrjzdp.jpg

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.... 7 Quart MILODON #31580.........approx $500.00 with the pickup
 
$500 for a pan/pick-up?.......we used the stock 440 pan, deepened it with a 2" strip welded into it (cost $0) then used a single line Milodon external system that worked well at 7300rpm.(race car only)....had enough ground clearance even with low profile front tyres (f/wells), would rather spend $500 on external oiling then a flash sump.....or you could lengthen the internal pick-up?...save $$$'s.
 
Howzabout a skid plate and big bump stops? Drop the centerlink from the pitman and idler only. And the pan comes out easily. Done it many,many times with an auto and a manual with scattershield. And I have the steering gear where the centerlink needs to go up to remove it. You just have to steer the front wheels back and forth to get the clearance needed. You can also leave the idler on the centerlink and drop it from the k frame. One bolt. One less ball joint to separate. I hate separating ball joints.....oops...I just reliezed ya got internal pickup. Sorry!
 
Here is mine with 165/80 front runners even with the top fender lip of my Demon - Milodon 7qt pan, QA1 K member. I also am considering using the stock pan my 383 came with.. kinda LOL

True story I have 3" exhaust, and 3.5" collector TTI headers that are higher than the sump pictured

Pop can for scale LOL -

demon%20148_zpst5cxvvd4.jpg
 
I believe you about the exhaust, my 3 1/2" collectors are also higher than my oil pan. I'm not looking to drop $500 on one, I'll keep my eyes open for a stock pan for now.
 
I am trying to limit compression on the suspension - crappy part about the QA1 tubular lower arms - they don't have a spot for a frame bump stop - I have a fairly wide bushing/bump stop in there that contacts the lip of the K member - under full compression the sump is 1.5" - 2" off the ground LOL - my car won't make much more than 450hp if that in it's current form though so I'm not worried about pulling a tire, coming down hard, and plus I already go slow over railroad tracks, and avoid bumps (have 3.5" wide Welds so kinda have to..)
 
Mine won't see any track time anymore. I'm converting it over from a street/strip setup to just a street setup. I have some stiffer torsion bars and a sway bar up front, so I'm not too worried about it bottoming out, I'm more concerned with our crappy pot hole filled roads causing it to bottom out. I try to avoid them, but there are too many to miss all of them. I'll have to measure the space to the bumpstops and compare to current clearance. Maybe some bigger bump stops would get me by. I currently have just under 3" clearance below the pan.

 
I have slant 6 torsion bars and no sway bar LOL, speed bumps are easy.. I've had cars just as low as my oil pan (no mopar cars) and clear them just fine.. go at them at an angle is usually all that's needed
 
Speed bumps aren't my concern, don't even remember the last time I've gone over a speed bump. I guess we don't have many around here. Steep driveways and potholes are what I'm concerned about. For now I'll raise the ride height back up. Maybe a skid plate would work, or at least warn me that I'm about to lose my pan.
 
Isn't there a rare big block a-body oil pan for sale? Only around a grand?
 
x2. This is what I run as well
HemiDenny just put one on his silver Duster and HemiMark has one on his soon to debut Hemi Demon.

You need to see a picture of the inside with all of the trap doors to see how it concentrates the oil in the
location of the pickup.
 
while were talking oil pans,i was going to put a 426 hemi in my 71 dart,using 5481 hooker headers,on mock up,headers are so close to the pan ,I cant use a external oil line like I want to,im kinda at a stand still and might abort the build,dont know what to do,not unless I have custom headers made which I cant do that
 
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