famous bob
mopar misfit
have you checked the vacuum line check valve on the housing? I had a much hotter cam in my GMC and ended up using an aftermarket vacuum canister, worked really well .
Big Cam No Vacuum
- Thread starter Dan B.
- Start date
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
My Edelbrock has a large threaded port on the back and one large slip on on the front, so I used the front one for PCV and the rear one for the booster.
The power brakes should be routed to a dedicated port on the intake manifold.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
On the 2176 intake the dedicated port is right close to the head on intake runner #8
When you release power brakes it causes the #8 cylinder to go lean and miss for a second, and I don't like that at all.
With it connected at the carb base it spreads that momentary extra air over all 8 cylinders and you don't get that miss on one.
I would feel different about it if the port was at least more centered in the intake.
That's what you get for runnin a crappy intake. LOL
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
How did I miss that tid bit of wisdom, from the guy with a Ford?
Oh that's right, because it was from the guy with a Ford.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
One clever way to get better vacuum at idle is to use Rhoads leak-down hydraulic lifters. They give less lift at low rpm and full lift by 3000 rpm. The "variable valve" of newish sporty cars (aka Hondas) is the same idea. Gives better mileage and low-end torque as well. But, you lose that lopey glug-glug sound that many adore as the mark of a "race engine", plus the noxious fumes that do with it. The sound is from combustion gases blowing out the exhaust unused. But, unknowing people adore the noise and smell.
Diesels generate no intake vacuum (wide-open throttle on most), but still use vacuum accessories, especially brake boosters. Newer ones use small electric vacuum pumps, one dedicated to the booster and often another for door locks. You can buy used ones cheap on ebay, look for VW, Audi, etc. (~$30). I bought one to rig for my M-B diesels for when the very expensive mechanical vacuum pumps fail. You would also need to buy an adjustable vacuum switch (~$30). Or you can pay >$300 for an aftermarket one in race magazines.
Diesels generate no intake vacuum (wide-open throttle on most), but still use vacuum accessories, especially brake boosters. Newer ones use small electric vacuum pumps, one dedicated to the booster and often another for door locks. You can buy used ones cheap on ebay, look for VW, Audi, etc. (~$30). I bought one to rig for my M-B diesels for when the very expensive mechanical vacuum pumps fail. You would also need to buy an adjustable vacuum switch (~$30). Or you can pay >$300 for an aftermarket one in race magazines.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Go non-power. Bet you won't even notice it's gone.
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