famous bob
mopar misfit
correct, agree about a few minutes, after that should be as normal.
My experiance is that they will run a little cooler after the rings seat , mine took a while to seat !
correct, agree about a few minutes, after that should be as normal.
My experiance is that they will run a little cooler after the rings seat , mine took a while to seat !
they usually take minutes to seat.
That said, the garbage the OP was told was a crock
Mine have always taken longer for some reason . Maybe rings and crosshatch off a little -------???
Head plate and decked , this engine even has gapless rings and still took a long time ---
This is what my fan clearance is on previously mentioned parts, '69 Dart. This whole thing is a package though, right parts, engine timing etc.
View attachment 1715689787
I'm sure there is some context lost in there. What is true is people continually don't dial in enough ignition timing during cam break in, and rings seating does help. I imagine that's what was being relayed.it doesnt matter. This thread is about a guy being told his motor is supposed to run hot when new, and then will cool off 30 degrees when broken in.
I cant in my wildest thoughts believe you could call a company and they would honestly give you as a customer such drivel...its not remotely true.
Its a crock of poop. You know it and i know it
it doesnt matter. This thread is about a guy being told his motor is supposed to run hot when new, and then will cool off 30 degrees when broken in.
I cant in my wildest thoughts believe you could call a company and they would honestly give you as a customer such drivel...its not remotely true.
Its a crock of poop. You know it and i know it
There’s many ways of looking at a situation like this. If your the sort that buys essentially a bolt-in engine and add your own peripheral related parts and then have a problem the first reaction is to blame the engine assembly, and reach out to them for answers and defend your part of the equation....as in: “it just can’t be what I’ve done”! I’ve seen it countless times. On the other hand if you did all the work yourself assembling things you’re going to likely be giving thought to everything related to what YOU did. This particular issue is not because of the engine block cooling cavities being blocked or scaled up, the head gaskets being incorrect, or blocking any passages to the head, or the head having any of the same issues that a block could have. It’s the peripheral things that an end user has control over. Sorry, but that statement gets a “Period” . It ain’t the engine, it’s what an end user (applies to all not just the OP) has or hasn’t done, either by overlooking, wrong parts used, tuning, not considering everything as you would if you built and assemble start to finish.
I'm sure there is some context lost in there. What is true is people continually don't dial in enough ignition timing during cam break in, and rings seating does help. I imagine that's what was being relayed.
Lots of good advice in the comments relating to timing, fans, etc. I gave a long post about things to check, and didn't see it responded it. Heavy springs in the dist is a problem. As well as dieseling. Thats fuel/timing. Noone wants him blindly throwing parts at it, but clearly have issues to work through.
@Moparmadness408 Was this purchased as a turn key engine? Carb and intake on it? Or longblock only?
How many miles are on it?
BluePrint engines is always happy to help customers. I will again openly state you are welcome to contact me directly.
Without reading all 3 pages, not sure if the water pump ever came up in the discussion.
What water pumps is Blueprint uses on their motors ?
Notice the numbers of vanes.
View attachment 1715689855
View attachment 1715689856
Neither of the two pumps pictured are high flow pumps.
If you are going to underdrive the water pump (bad idea) then you need 8 find. If you are going to overdrive the pump (the right way to do it) you can use 6 fins.
The number of fins is less important when the pup speed is correct and the fins are closed off with a plate OR you mill the timing cover until the fins just touch the cover and then use the gasket to set the clearance between the fins and the cover.
Not so fast.
Not sure where underdriving the water pump came up ?
That wasn't where I was going with this.
The 6 vane pump is actually an AC pump, which uses a smaller AC pulley.
The 8 vane pump is a Non-AC pump, which uses a bigger Non-AC pulley.
The problem is running an AC 6 vane water pump, on a
Non-AC car. Parts suppliers sell them all the time, and unsuspecting people just bolt them on. Less flow and hotter temps will result from doing this.
That's why I brought this question up.
What pump is on the motor ?
Maybe BP didn't supply the WP ?
I'm guessing it was sold as a longblock without intake, carb, distributor, etc. Makes it hard to help diagnose issues when it's not our equipment on the engine.Maybe BP didn't supply the WP ?
Exactly what I stated.
If engine cooling is a problem, the 70-73 non-AC pump should be used.
I’m not disagreeing. I’m saying if you spend all that money on an engine and you want to run a 30 dollar pump, then you need 8 fins.
If you actually spend the 120 rubles or whatever a Milodon or Flowkooler costs, then fin count means nothing.
I wasn’t suggesting what the OP has, or doesn’t have for a water pump.
I brought up pump speed because it’s damned hard to find overdriven water pump pulleys in the aftermarket, and guys love that shiny ****.
I’m only at 3% over, and I’d rather be at 18% over. March Performance wants a 100 bucks per pulley with a 15 minimum order to build a water pump pulley that is 18% over their crank pulley.
I’m considering doing it, but I’d use one pulley, my buddy one pulley and I’d be sitting on 13 pulleys.
Convincing guys that water pump speed is critical and that saving a few HP under driving the pump will cost way more HP in not controlling engine temp.
Any decent street performance engine should never see the high side of 180, except maybe at stop lights and such, and 160 is better. You can’t get much lower and still have a defrost.
The leakage around the fins is a bigger deal than how many fins you have. There is a reason why Milodon only uses 6 fins on their pumps. IIRC, part of it has to do with RPM and cavitation. I may be wrong on that, because it’s been so long since I discussed it with them.