bondo questions.

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hw612

hw612

The Mopar Martian.
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okay i am stripping old paint and bondo from my car in some tight spaces.
you can see some pics here http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=153812 i am just picking at the old cracked bondo an getting chunks and all the loose stuff off. so can i leave the stuff that is still solid for when i re do it with new filler or should i not mix 50 year old bondo with new bondo? also while stripping the paint its down to bare metal in some areas so should i prime before i fill because im not ready to fill and i dont really want to leave metal exposed...
thanks.
hec
 
well what we do is strip the whole car and spray with epoxy primer... its hard as nails and has materials in it to protect from rust...

when your ready to do an area DA the epoxy till it is no longer shinny, then mud...
 
hw612 said:
can you epoxy over some old paint and bondo?
Click to expand...

yea but i wouldn't... if your gonna spend the time to block it out nice you should just strip all the old paint and bondo, there could be little rust pockets under them and it will come thru...
 
I would chip it all out. Thats to much filler and way. It shouldnt be more then 1/8" thick.
 
40 grit on a da for stripping is ok right?
i just used 40 on a block today and it was too slow for me.
 
i know its thick but i dont know what else to use, i dont have the skill do make metal fit in there.
 
hw612 said:
i know its thick but i dont know what else to use, i dont have the skill do make metal fit in there.
Click to expand...

i havn't seen the pics but if its that bad and you cant make it better i would leave it till you can...

but for striping we use a 8" disc grinder/sander AKA a Mudhog, get it to where your just getting to metal and then use the da with 60 or 80, then wipe it down with thinner and epoxy
 
what can happen with bondo that thick? i know that stuff has been on there for 50 years and is cracked. i dont know how long it took to crack though.
 
hw612 said:
what can happen with bondo that thick? i know that stuff has been on there for 50 years and is cracked. i dont know how long it took to crack though.
Click to expand...

the thicker it is the more likely it is to crack...
 
if i just put enough on to make it semi-uniform and cover the welds. it wont be as thick but it will be a drastic contour change.
 
hw612 said:
if i just put enough on to make it semi-uniform and cover the welds. it wont be as thick but it will be a drastic contour change.
Click to expand...

can you make a filler peice of metal to take up most of the area? weld it in and then your light skim coat of filler
 
Where the wheel well flares added on? I would just get rid of them and make the panel the way it is supposed to be.
 
i got too much respect for them guys to undo their work, plus trying to make the panel stock would just create more problems. the size of slick i can fit in there is insane. and i plan on putting the car back to its as raced condition at some point. i think i might just put in a bunch of tack welds to build up metal then use less filler.
 
What about a donor piece from another car and splice the part you need in..
 
If you have access to a welder, why not go to lowes and buy a $30 sheet of 20 guage steel. Make a card board template of a cresent moon that fits over this gap and then weld/mold it into the shape you want?
Its a pretty basic job and gives you a rock solid platform for finish work with bondo as a skim coat.
1) Just make sure the cardboard template wraps nicely around the gap and has good contact points to the lip of the well and the quarter skin.
2) Take the time to cut the steel to the template.
3) Keep your welds short, spread out, and cool so you get pentration but not so much heat it warps the metal.

You'll be happy with the results and its going to look better longer than a bucket of mud smacked into the wheel lip.
 
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