Braided lines and AN fittings ...

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orangecrush

orangecrush

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Are these just for looks on street cars ? I was considering running from fuel pump to carb - looks great but no real advantages, correct ? I'm assuming they come into play when you want fail-safe parts on a race car ?
 
orangecrush said:
Are these just for looks on street cars ? I was considering running from fuel pump to carb - looks great but no real advantages, correct ? I'm assuming they come into play when you want fail-safe parts on a race car ?
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They are suppose to be the top of line stuff from my understanding (quality). I've always wanted to use it but just don't know how to measure it to fit the things I need it for. Like -6 .... what the heck is that? If there was some kind of cross reference chart or something maybe I could swing it. Then another question is how does the braided hose seal on the hose etc.?? I didn't want to order what I thought was right from Summit then have to return it because it won't fit. I don't know anyone with hands on experience to show me how to use it or has it on there cars. So I stuck with the old rubber hose and clamps bulls**t! lol
 
orangecrush,

I question whetjer it is worth it but I did it for oil lines because I was afraid of the "what if?".

There are some decent instructions here
http://www.anplumbing.com/tech.html

Here is some size info....
http://www.anplumbing.com/thread_npt.html
and http://www.anplumbing.com/tech.html

For cutting-
http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html

And putting the fitting on....
http://www.anplumbing.com/SWIVEL_SEAL_HOSE_ENDS.html

Again.. not sure if it worth the bucks but there are plenty of good sources of info out there.

Kory
 
It ain't tough to build what you need, instructions are available on line for everything .... but it is more for looks for street applications (and it does look good) They are used (and required) in race applications, aircraft, etc. Cool factor's about it unless your running any super high pressures (?). Too rich for my blood (how 'bout the phony braided red plastic wraps over your radiator hoses - what a joke).
 
The big advantage is that it's about as strong as steel line and almost as flexible as rubber and it looks great. It is also very abrasion resistant and the fittings are leak free as long as they don't loosen up. NHRA dictate how much rubber line can be on a race car fuel system and IIRC, it's three feet.

Terminating the ends can be a pain (literally, the braid can draw blood), but there are tools to simplify end installation.

-1 AN = 1/16". So, if you want a 3/8" hose, it's -6 AN. AN means Army Navy as this was originally developed for the military.
 
Also beware the wannabe parts. Good stuff generally ain't cheap, and cheap stuff generally ain't good.
 
C130 Chief said:
Also beware the wannabe parts. Good stuff generally ain't cheap, and cheap stuff generally ain't good.
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And mixing brands can prove... disappointing and/or impossible. I run it when I want it to seal and be safe. i dont care about bling.
 
"Ask and ye shall receive!" lol

Thanks guys! Maybe I can learn and switch some stuff out now. I'm going to save the above links in my file for future reference.
 
As someone else stated the AN stands for Army Navy as in army navy standards or what is now MS, military standards. All aircraft use these fittings so you can go out to your local airport mechanic and if they aren't too busy they can either help you or teach you to get you started. they are flexible , tough, resist abrasion and serviceable in the field with wrenches rather than compression fittings.
 
tech inspector at the track can shut you down for rubber hose. I think theres a 6 in. or 12 in. limit under the hood. Its in the nhra ihra rulebooks. sorry missed ramchargers post
 
ya its 12. Does that mean no more than 12 inches in a area or Total on the Car? because I can go from the fuel pump with rubber to steel line then right before the Carb Rubber.
 
12 inches total. Another benefit for the racer is the ease of taking hoses off. Compare it to using pieces of rubber hose and worm clamps, they're a ***** to take apart.
 
If you want to save some money, steel fittings work as well as the aluminum style. the steel is obviously a bit heavier and the ends sometimes use a larger wrench size.

Any good hydraulic hose house will have the steel fittings.
 
hmmm I can make that work, I think Ill just cut 1 ft maybe 1ft 1/2 and use were needed and try to use as much alum. line as possible
 
As you can see I would like to do away with what I have from the fuel pump to the carb. The steel fuel log is ok I guess but the filter and hose looks cheesy.

DSC01428.jpg


DSC01690.jpg
 
Don't forget the Push-Lok hose. Russel sells it, as do others.

It's braided still, but it's not metal. It'd very tough stuff, and waaaaay easier to work with than braided steel hose, not to mention cheaper.

Additionally, after a couple of years, it seems like the braided stainless hose lets a lot of gas smell through.

Steve
 
daredevil said:
You can use a piece of braided hose with worm clamps and it looks great
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That would be to easy and wouldn't have the "look" I am wanting. lol

LXguy said:
Don't forget the Push-Lok hose. Russel sells it, as do others.

It's braided still, but it's not metal. It'd very tough stuff, and waaaaay easier to work with than braided steel hose, not to mention cheaper.

Additionally, after a couple of years, it seems like the braided stainless hose lets a lot of gas smell through.

Steve
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Push-Lok hose .... I'll have to check it out... thanks.
 
Push lock is perty good you dont bleed putting it together

for looks and duribility an fittings and hose cant be beat
 
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