Brake upgrade

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salinasjoel

salinasjoel

Learning Daily
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I recently ran new lines through my whole car and upgraded from single to dual master cylinder. I've bleed all the brakes and the master but its still really spongy. Do I need a longer pushrod? Car is a 65 dart and I put a new master cylinder for a 68 dart in it.
Thanks
 
So just keep bleeding and check my connections? With a whole new setup should I expect to bleed for quite a while or more then normal?
 
Does your brake pedal sit in it's normal position with your foot off the pedal??

A quick, easy check for air,, after you're sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly,, is ,.. with m/c cap on,, have friend pump 2 or 3 times and hold down,,, remove the cap,, have pedal released as you watch fluid levels,... any "geyser" ( fluid spouting well above the surface) is compressed air, "springing" back,, front or rear,, and that system needs more bleeding..

-with the exception that,- if the rear brakes are outta adjustment,, the return springs can cause a fluid return from the rears.. setting the emergency can help if you can't adjust the rears..

hope it helps... grant
 
air in the lines most of the time. one of my friends put his caliper on up side down that was funny
 
I once installed the calipers on the wrong sides. Spent 3 weeks trying to bleed system. No one could figure it out. Then my friend who is a mopar genious took one look and diagnosed it in like 1 minute!
 
On a disc brake set-up, make sure the brake line/bleeder is at the highest point of the caliper (when installed). Otherwise, you will have trapped air in the caliper that will never be bled out.
 
Make sure your bleeders are all on the top side of the cylinders/ calipers. Bleed the longest line first. Many do but I say do NOT let the pedal up with the bleeder open whether you have a hose immersed in fluid or not. You pretty much must bench bleed the master.

If there is a question as to pedal height, tighten the heck out of the adjusters on the rear so the shoes are tight, which will take movement out of the rear cylinders. This should result in a very high, very hard pedal.
 
Ok so brakes are bled and work but there is too much travel in the pedal... Should I have switched to a longer push rod?
 
You did not say what you are runnig disc/drums, disc/disc, power or manual. If running drums on the rear make sure shoes are adjusted to slight drag when you spin wheel by hand in neutral. What diameter mc are you running? What spliter block did you use to plumb in the new mc? We need more info to try to help.
 
Master cylinder is for a stock 68 dart. Block is from inline tubing, brakes are all adjusted so there is friction in neutral. The brakes are firm once I press the pedal about three inches but before that its nothing to push down all drums
 
Did you "bench bleed" the master cylinder BEFORE you installed it in the car??? If not, then that's your problem.

If so, then probably still got air in the lines or a leak.
 
So I did not bench bleed it... Do I need to pull it and do so? I've never done it. Would it help to use a vacuum pump to bleed them?
 
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