Broken Bolt in Water Pump

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GTXperience

Orig Stealth Mod
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So, I was changing the water pump on the 340 and snapped the the lower bolt on the somewhat triangular bracket that supports the alternator. I soaked the bolts the entire week and even tried heating it up a little but to no avail ... el snapo! Of course, all the other bolts came off easily and I can actually pivot the entire pump clockwise a little. It appears that the bolt is pivoting as well.

So the question is ... If I can't get the pump to slide off the broken bolt (which would be nice so I could try and get some v-grips on it), is there any other methods that you all can think of besides an EZ-out?

I'll post a couple of pics of the offending bolt (or what's left of it) below. Thanks in advance.

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IMG_0578.jpg
 
A Die Grinder with a cuting tool would cut the pump out around the bolt to get it off or mayby a welder with heat added to to area around the bolt. Good Luck!
 
Does that bolt go all the way in the block throught the cover.....if so you will need to pull the cover as well....bolt is set up in block....
 
A Die Grinder with a cuting tool would cut the pump out around the bolt to get it off or mayby a welder with heat added to to area around the bolt. Good Luck!


I agree, the water pumps is already done. get the die-grinder out and do some surgery on that pump and slide it off.
 
is that a portion of the bolt sticking out of the housing?

If so, grab a nut that fits over the outer diameter and weld it onto the bolt.

Maybe take a drift and smack the end of the bolt. A little shock therapy sometimes breaks rusty stuff loose.

If you have room, cut the bolt so it doesn't have any burrs and slide the pump forward and off. That will give you plenty of exposed bolt to work with.
 
If you're saving the pump... pull the radiator and dampner and slide the cover off. You can heat the block around it to get it off, or you can cut it off flush and drill it out that way. but one way or another, the cover needs to be removed to save the block.
 
What every you do, once you are able to turn the bolt, turn it by hand, and when it binds, turn it back in some, keep working it back and forth. I had one of those top bolts bind up and put an air rachet on it and snapped it right off in the block. Had to take off timing cover and drill it out. Luckily I got it out without messing up the block. Sealer on the threads keeps the coolant out and keeps rust from forming.
 
I can actually pivot the entire pump clockwise a little. It appears that the bolt is pivoting as well.

The water scale and crud has seized the bolt to the water pump housing as the bolt was backing out..You need to break that seal. It's not going to be easy. Keep trying 'crud buster' or similar products. Good luck

GregH
 
It sounds like the shank of the bolt is siezed up in the pump. i would try like what crackedback said and weld up a nut to the end and apply some heat to the pump to try and beak it free. if that doesn't do it try and find a spot to put a pry bar so you can hit the pump foward after again applying heat and spray something like freeze off on the bolt.
 
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I am going to let it soak a little more over night and get on it tomorrow. I pryed the pump forward from the right side/center and shot some additional PB Blaster down there and will do so again later tonight.
 
The jaws of a pipe wrench bites harder the more you try to torque it. This helped me remove a broken exhaust stud, along with a few shots of liquid wrench, a few blows of a propane torch and a few raps of the hammer.
 
If the bolt turns with the pump I say cut most of the pump off so you can get some visegrips on the section with the bolt and try to turn it that way. At least most of the pump will be out of your way and you will have that much more room to work. Besides cutting stuff up is fun!
 
Deep Creep works better than PB Blaster IMHO. I also agree with 360scamp, cut the pump away from the boss.

This is why I like to use SS bolts.
 
I am getting tied up all day with preparation for two family get-togethers so it looks lie another night or two of soaking and back on it Monday early eve. BTW: This is the original pump and bolts on a 51K original 340 so I am going to attempt to get the pump off without damaging it. Of course, that is until I get really frustrated and then out comes the air chisel. ;)
 
Oh come one, just do what I do when ever any of Nikkis family comes over (like right now) run and hide in the garage and crank up some good music like the Deli Creeps. It's amazing all the work you get done when you are trying to avoid people.
 
Oh no. I am definitely going to be in attendance ... three of those relatives owe me money and I plan on getting some of it back this weekend. ;)
 
As of 25 minutes ago, I got the pump off and the bolt out of the block. I was sick all of last week and this was my first day back on it (besides going out to spray the area down a couple of times) since my last post. Losing an entire week absolutely sucks (especially when you are trying to meet a deadline). Count down: 3 days left to get the car in traveling mode. I will post a pic of the lil' bastard bolt later.
 
What will happen in 3 days if the car isn't in traveling mode, will a group of wild mopar owner bashing monkeys hunt you down, throw poop at you, kick you in the shins then run away? If so then I suggest that you stock up on bananas to distract them with.
 
What will happen in 3 days if the car isn't in traveling mode, will a group of wild mopar owner bashing monkeys hunt you down, throw poop at you, kick you in the shins then run away? If so then I suggest that you stock up on bananas to distract them with.

I hear ya but I don't think redastback and slantscamp like bananas. ;) Actually, I don't want to disappoint Joyce. I haven't felt like taking a car to the Fling shows in quite awhile. I just like to go visit friends (some that I only see annually at Spring Fling). Joyce is the one who really wanted us to take a car down this year. I don't think she thinks its cool to cruise in the caravan (not the van type) down the cost and then to the show and the cruise-ins in a rental. I ask you all. "What the hell's wrong with a rental? At least it's usually a Mopar rental" ;)
 
OHH!The suspense,you forgot to tell us how you got it out GTX??Fill us in on crusty bolt removal knowledge!!LOL!
 
hey Ben don't i recall a conversation about you and a rental Yaris once? :shock: now that would have been a sight! glad to hear both you and Steve are bringing your rides, i'm stoked to finally see them in person.
 
OHH!The suspense,you forgot to tell us how you got it out GTX??Fill us in on crusty bolt removal knowledge!!LOL!

Well, an entire week of being sick really helps let the PB Blaster seep in. ;) While I was sick, I "crawled" (for dramatics) into the garage each night and sprayed everything down. I heated up the cover area a the bolt end and shot PB hoping it would suck it in. I gave the bolt end a couple of shots with some scrap metal stock and a ball peen. I was also able to get a couple of small pry bars at the ten & one o'clock positions. I shot some more PB down there hoping it would find it's way.

Other than that, I would give the pump a few twists back and forth. Originally, the bolt was turning with the pump. One night, I twisted the pump and the bolt did not move so I knew I was close but there was still alot of material keeping it from sliding off.

Also, I was making a little head way with the pry bars and got to the point where I could slip some metal stock in between the timing chain cover and the pry bar (so I wouldn't damage the cover). When I got it to budge a bit, I slipped in a little thicker stock. Monday was the first day back on it (besides spraying it down during sick week) and after a little work with the pry bars it finally came off.

Re: the bolt in the block. It was a little more of the same. Heating, banging and a pair of vices ... and out it came. Here's a pic of the troublesome bolt below. To be fair, it hadn't seen the light of day for 38 years.

Then ... just when I thought I was out of the woods ... (To Be Continued in the Next Post).

IMG_0603.jpg
 
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