budget 383 build!

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I will be going with a off the self Comp cam kit as it comes with a timing chain which I also need - don't need springs as I have some on another pair of heads
 
"That's nearly a stock cam. " Yup. And it works well, and wont fall flat on its face when you mash the go pedal. A 292 is alot cooler when talkin with your buds, though.

What's a 292?

Bigger cams don't necessarily fall on their face when you mash the pedal. They don't necessarily have a choppy idle either.
 
292 cam. I thought he was doing a budget build, hence the recommendation. No, its not a big cam but it wont need a lot of upgrades to go with it either. I have ridden in a stock 383 rebuild with Cranes blueprint cam, it ran strong. This is 2 steps up from that cam, albeit small steps for Crane. I thought it was a good choice given what he is looking for.
 
292 cam. No, its not a big cam but it wont need a lot of upgrades to go with it either. I have ridden in a stock 383 rebuild with Cranes blueprint cam, it ran strong. This is 2 steps up from that cam, albeit small steps for Crane. I thought it was a good choice given what he is looking for.

The 292 AKA "509 cam has [email protected] and is cut on 108 LSA. Be aware that advertised (292 etc) duration means nothing. Duration at .050 along with lobe separation angle will give you a much more accurate idea of how large a cam is an how it will be mannered.

My cam is the 284/.528/112. It idles very mild unlike the .509 which I have also run. It also makes more power. But duration wise they are almost the same. 4 degrees of lobe separation angle makes the difference at ldle.

Nothing wrong with the cam you suggested. It will make enough power to burn the tires and idle like a kitten.
 
Had a completely stock 1965 383 with stock 516 heads, mopar 528 solid cam, holley street dominator intake with 850 holley and a set of 1 3/4 headers that went 12.65 in a 3500 lb coronet. That motor was lucky to be 8.5:1 compression, the pistons were .045 in the hole with who knows how many original miles. It was also the toughest low maintinence motor ive ever seen. If i were you id copy what i did. Especially if your on a budget. Oh and get a 4000 converter, that will really wake it up
 
Had a completely stock 1965 383 with stock 516 heads, mopar 528 solid cam ([email protected], .528 lift, 112LSA) , Holley street dominator intake with 850 holley and a set of 1 3/4 headers that went 12.65 in a 3500 lb coronet. That motor was lucky to be 8.5:1 compression, the pistons were .045 in the hole with who knows how many original miles. It was also the toughest low maintinence motor ive ever seen. If i were you id copy what i did. Especially if your on a budget. Oh and get a 4000 converter, that will really wake it up


OP, read this a few times /\ /\ /\
 
By the looks of it that convertor was helping you a lot.
 
Here is my 383 build that is all machined and ready for assembly:

KB400 -.040 pistons
MP .528 solid cam with stock style adj iron rockers
Cloyes Hex-a-just timing gear
Stealth heads prepped by Muscle Motors
RPM intake with 750 Biggs Carb

Going into a 1964 Dart with a 4 speed, 4.10 Dana
 
Found out my budget is cut in half today as the chassis still need work as do my daily drivers - SO some serious penny pinching is going to happen sadly

I got an offer from a fellow member for a hugh's 3500rpm stall converter for a very good price
 
Well due to budget constraints I've been crunching numbers - got about $2,700 for the motor/trans/ exhaust/fuel system

parts -
MP 284/.484" 108*LSA cam
Comp valve springs on stock "346" 440 heads
Summit timing chain
MP windage tray
MP shim head gaskets (my math puts it about 9:1 static)
Milodon 7qt oil pan
MP valve covers
Edelbrock Performer RPM
Hughes 3500 stall
Proform electronic ign. kit
Hedman headers
Summit 2.5" X pipe
Dynomax Ultraflow's dumped
 
^^thats gonna be a bad *** ride!

I think so!!

I just started the mockup last weekend. Cut the hole for the 4 speed tunnel, put in a bare block with Schmacher mounts. Mounted the Dana w/new springs. Started to set up the vertigate shifter.

Mike
 
Well due to budget constraints I've been crunching numbers - got about $2,700 for the motor/trans/ exhaust/fuel system

parts -

Hedman headers
Summit 2.5" X pipe
Dynomax Ultraflow's dumped

I might be able to save you a few bucks on your exhaust. I have a complete mandrel 2 1/2" exhaust system, including Hooker headers and turbo style mufflers, back to the bumper. If you are interested PM me. It was used on a 74 Duster for about 800 miles here in AZ. Nice shape.

Let me know, Mike

Mike
 
I priced the Summit X pipe, reducers, 2 Dynomax's, and a 45* bend to make dumps for $320.. thanks though.. I can't run tail pipes cause of offset hangers/shackles in back..

Ok guys got my tax return and loan so money is getting spent here-

440source aluminum heads (confirmed with Kim the below cam will work with the included springs)
440source aluminum underdrive crank pulley
Comp 280 / .480" cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM w/ 1/2" spacer
Holley 750
Hedman B body headers
3500rpm hughes stall converter from a fellow member

everything else will be left til money allows -
 
I priced the Summit X pipe, reducers, 2 Dynomax's, and a 45* bend to make dumps for $320.. thanks though.. I can't run tail pipes cause of offset hangers/shackles in back..

Ok guys got my tax return and loan so money is getting spent here-

440source aluminum heads (confirmed with Kim the below cam will work with the included springs)
440source aluminum underdrive crank pulley
Comp 280 / .480" cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM w/ 1/2" spacer
Holley 750
Hedman B body headers
3500rpm hughes stall converter from a fellow member

everything else will be left til money allows -

if your budget is cut that far maybe get a set of 906 heads rebuilt and run em. that could save a good 500 bucks
 
My 2 cents.

Install the 484 cam at 100-102 ICL. With the low compression, that will boost cylinder pressure and get you some low end grunt.
 
Ok the .484 purple shaft is still a decent cam? I just looked and the springs on my other 346 heads are double springs.. so maybe have them setup on the stealth heads and pick a cam after that? As I feel there are better off the shelf cam's than the .484" and why stay under .500" if I don't have to wit the other springs..

I basically have 906's (346's are 71 HP heads - only the casting number is different to my knowledge) - I have 2 pairs of 346's at that - 1 pair is off a friends 71 440 w/ Comp Cams double springs, and the other is on the 71 383 I'm picking up tomorrow
 
ok back up - I inspected everything over good - 75% sure both stock heads have stock springs in them as they look identical on each of the heads, (single spring with a damper spring inside)

SO I ordered a pair of stealth heads and will just run them for now.. anyone know the part number for the correct plugs for them? I'm not a fan of Champion plugs, and want to get NGK's.. honestly to me they look like typical GM style plugs that most aluminum heads use..

So here is the FINAL build-

Holley 3310 750 carb
1/2" divided spacer (may switch to open)
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
440 source stealth heads OOTB (ordered - no going back)
MP shim .020" head gaskets (should be 9:1 static with the flat tops - measured .050"-.055" in the hole)
stock pushrods/ rockers - may buy hardened pushords not sure yet
Comp 280/.480" 110* cam dot to dot
Summit timing chain
stock oil pump from 71
MP windage tray
Milodon 7qt oil pan
stock 71 rotating assembly
440 source crank under drive pulley (5.25" diameter)
440 source aluminum water pump setup w/ HF pump
Proform electronic kit (may just get a dizzy as I already have the harness/box)
Mancini lightweight alternator kit w/ 120amp Toyota alt to run electric fan
80gph mechanical fuel pump w/ reg/filter

Hedman 1 3/4" B body headers, Summit 3" X pipe, 3" Dynomax Ultraflow's dumped at axle

stock 727 w/ hard spring shift kit, 4.2 band lever (factory super stock part)
Hughes 3,000-3,500 stall
Hurst Pro-matic 2 shifter (can get for $120 brand new)
stock drive shaft
B body 8 3/4 w/ 3.23 gears (a gear set isn't in the budget as the chassis needs a lot of work)
^ new green bearing kit for axles - leaving center section as it has lower miles on it..

What do we think it will make? I'm guessing 400hp-425hp at the crank.. but would be happy with 380 crank..
 
LOL thank you for the number I couldn't find it! I ended up getting the champions, but will probably pick up a set of the NGK's
 
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