bypassing the alternator gauge

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I did the ammeter bypass recently and it required no other modifications. I simply removed the connectors from both sides of the gauge and connected them directly together.

The benefit is that you won't have to carry the entire current load of the system through the firewall connector. As these systems get old the high current produces excess heat and can result in fire behind the dash.

Mike
 
so the 2 wires on the back off the amp meter, you just hooked them up to each other?
 
yes or you can just put them both on same side of the gauge and tighten the nut!
 
hmmm seemed like last time I made them touch they sparked
 
Replace it with a voltmeter- no draw, and tells you if it's charging. Ampmeter almost useless.
 
BrianT said:
yes or you can just put them both on same side of the gauge and tighten the nut!
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Yup! Thats what I did and it solved my flickering dash light problem. And, I still run the mechanical voltage regulator,and STOCK alternator.
 
I'm thinking if you simply connect the two leads from the amp gauge together, you still have the same amount of current flowing through the bulkhead.

If the bulkhead connections are clean, the wires are in good condition, and you are not running higher than stock electrical loads, your amp gauge is just fine...
 
ya, connecting the two wires before the firewall will help more
 
QWK FSH said:
I'm thinking if you simply connect the two leads from the amp gauge together, you still have the same amount of current flowing through the bulkhead.
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Bingo. If you want to get around having the current run through the firewall, you have to make the changes under the hood. I've been considering making a diode shunt that goes under the hood and under high charging loads partially bypasses the ammeter. I also have a much heavier gauge wire from the alternator routed through the firewall.

If the bulkhead connections are clean, the wires are in good condition, and you are not running higher than stock electrical loads, your amp gauge is just fine...
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I am running EFI and a larger alternator, so I did want to do a couple upgrades, though I've chosen to keep the ammeter. I kind of like how quickly it reacts - although in some ways it's overdone as it can change in response to the turn signals clicking on and off.
 
QWK FSH said:
If the bulkhead connections are clean, the wires are in good condition, and you are not running higher than stock electrical loads, your amp gauge is just fine...
Click to expand...

And if your 30+ year old amp gauge does burn out, your alternator will quit charging, and your battery will go dead.

The mad electrical bypass and adding a voltage gauge is the best solution to the whole situation in my opinion.
 
BrianT said:
And if your 30+ year old amp gauge does burn out, your alternator will quit charging, and your battery will go dead.

The mad electrical bypass and adding a voltage gauge is the best solution to the whole situation in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify... it is not called an amp gauge, it's an ammeter which displays current measured in amperes or amps for short. Shorting the 2 large wires together simply takes the ammeter out of the series circuit but does nothing to help with any voltage drop due to resistive 30 year old wires and the resulting voltage drops (mainly to the headlights).
 
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