But Rusty is Right on this one, pressure test the dry cooling system and see where air is leaking to. Pinpoint your leak before proceeding.
It ran strong for 45 seconds and was a fresh engine before cam issue. To be honest, the water issue is secondary to the high pressure blowing out the oil filter. And actually, I did pull the oil pump and put a new/used one on since I found some bits of cam in the pump. Could a relieve valve spring on the pump cause this sort of problem? Thanks
My thought on the hi oil pressure is the bypass valve was stuck for whatever reason.
If and when you tear down Jake, make sure to note bolt locations, which holes are wet vs dry etc.
Also as RRR mentioned the oil mixing with coolant may be the cause of it coming out past filter?
"If it was mine" what I would do at this point is run a pressure test on the cooling system with the spark plugs out.
But Rusty is Right on this one, pressure test the dry cooling system and see where air is leaking to. Pinpoint your leak before proceeding.
You wouldn’t happen to have a part number would you? I looked around on eBay.SCE has a .120 intake gasket.....
****!This was maybe 45 seconds to minute and this was what was pushing by the oil filter. What would cause pressure high enough to do that? And the water is about 1/8 high from the bottom at the cap. And water is still slowly dripping from the oil pan
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only on freshly machined surfaces can you get away with a good spray of copper coat on both sides.Well, I as far as I can see I took all the correct avenues while disassembling and reassembling the engine after I wiped a lobe on the previous cam.
I swapped in a used set of late 70’s 360 1.88/1.60 heads with new seals, springs and retainers and lapped the valves. Went to break it in 20 minutes ago and started spraying milky fluid out of the oil filter or should I say through the rubber o ring. I stopped it immediately and I’m now faced with a perplexing situation. What would cause water to leak into the engine before it’s even started? And what would cause so much pressure that it pushes by the oil filter seal??
I had filled the radiator up last night and it wasn’t until all this happened did I realize when I went to open the cap today that it was empty. I filled it up not thinking that it could have been an issue. The only things I replaced were the heads, cam and head gaskets. I used a set of NOS .024 head gasket lightly sprayed with copper seal. I’m bumming hard on this and really have no clue where to look. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jake
If you have too.... glue 2 intake gaskets together for each side.. Gaskasinch, permanent Tex in a can works.Well, I had a hunch that after all this talk about the intake water passage not sealing I decided to test it since there was drips still coming out of the pan I pulled all the water out of the intake and the drip stopped immediately. Now, I’m going to pull it out tomorrow because I believe now that the oil pump switch was wrong but my fear at the time about finding car pieces in there were legit. I should have inspected it closer and maybe it would have been something I would have caught. The machine shop i took it too had the wrong amount to take off on there but promised that they did it to the correct number which was .015. I believe I can get a thick intake gasket to resolve this issue because it’s going to be hard to find another LD340 for 125$. Thanks to everyone for their experience and insight. I’ll check back with pictures in the coming days, also, I used straight water and no coolant so hopefully that will have payed off in the long run.
Jake
Block was machined as well as the heads, cleaned it all up with degreaser. Ports were good, not deterioration of any sort and I rtv the corners like I had before without issue. I believe i found the issues but as I got it out this morning I’m wondering if that high pressure caused a leak in the head gaskets since I noticed a leak running down the block.only on freshly machined surfaces can you get away with a good spray of copper coat on both sides.
Then again what was used to clean the surfaces that could also cause an issue when trying to use the steel shim and some copper coat. You would have had to use some RTV around each water port on both sides if you didn't machine anything and then cross your fingers.
If you used too little rtv on the intake water cross overs "aka 4 corners" or the manifold is creating an A shape gap....it will leak into the engine. Front cover leaking is rare... but if the block was corroded around the water passages and not enough or any rtv was used, sure it will leak. Always rtv the threads of the long water pump/front cover bolts or they can weap around the head. Honestly I've seen worse have the oil changed and live a long life. Roll of the dice, your throw ..
I think 14-16 lbs is plenty to test.Block was machined as well as the heads, cleaned it all up with degreaser. Ports were good, not deterioration of any sort and I rtv the corners like I had before without issue. I believe i found the issues but as I got it out this morning I’m wondering if that high pressure caused a leak in the head gaskets since I noticed a leak running down the block.
Jake
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I like investigative work. Don't do this just because I would, but this is so odd I would pull the motor and inspect everything, just out of curiosity.
Block was machined as well as the heads, cleaned it all up with degreaser. Ports were good, not deterioration of any sort and I rtv the corners like I had before without issue. I believe i found the issues but as I got it out this morning I’m wondering if that high pressure caused a leak in the head gaskets since I noticed a leak running down the block.
Jake
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