Can small block oil pump be replaced without pulling the engine?

[furrystump]

Done it a couple of times. Won’t do it again, it’s just easier to get everything to seal with it out of the car. Plus I can clean it and paint it again. One thing I didn’t see mentioned, make sure the fan doesn’t hit the shroud when you jack the motor up. Mine is pretty close and I just pull the shroud off the radiator and leave it in place.

 

[mgoblue9798]

Some responses in this thread seem like they are from dudes that never turned a wrench.
No, the engine does not have to come out. Those that suggest it are wrong.
If the car is a 73 Dart Sport as shown in writing at the bottom of the original post, that is one of the easiest cars to do this with the engine still in place.
What logic is there in draining and removing the radiator, ATF lines, headers or exhaust pipes, fan-alternator-power steering systems, radiator hoses, wiring, fuel lines and motor mounts, disconnecting the bell housing and torque converter bolts to get to an oil pan that is at the bottom of an engine?
The 73-76 A body has a center link that can be removed easily. From there, you drain the oil, remove the oil pan bolts and lower the pan out. Yeah, you might need to raise the engine a little to clear the oil pickup tube or crank counterweight but so what? Use an engine hoist with a chain across the two frontmost intake manifold bolts or a floor jack with a block of wood under the harmonic balancer. It is simply that easy.
Those that chime in with useless advice are not helping matters.
Inertia has it right, Dano does too.
Why would you remove the distributor??? There is plenty of room.

Or maybe the advice of those you mention is from some oldsters like myself. Can the pump be changed in the car? Sure. But it is usually just a patch on a worn out engine. If you are ok with a patch on a high mileage engine go for it. I'd rather pull the thing get it on a stand and start checking things out to know for certain what I have got. Nothing wrong with spending a couple hours to pull reseal and check everything over. I haven't found a small block with any miles on it that couldn't use a timing chain at a minimum.

 

[Kendog 170]

Shake the oil pick up when out. I had low oil pressure so I changed the pump. Pick up was full of old crumbled valve seals. I was a kid then and couldn't fiqure why my 71 340 Demon ran strong, no leaks but used a quart of oil a week! lol
Oh, yes, did it from underneath.

 

[mgoblue9798]

Shake the oil pick up when out. I had low oil pressure so I changed the pump. Pick up was full of old crumbled valve seals. I was a kid then and couldn't fiqure why my 71 340 Demon ran strong, no leaks but used a quart of oil a week! lol
Oh, yes, did it from underneath.

I have found the same problem with nylon timing gear pieces in the pickup making the oil idiot light come on.

 

[Inertia]

OP hasn't been in since around the original post .

 

[mygasser]

not on a mopar but i've cut the bottom of the pan off, swapped the pump and welded the pan back on. only took about an hour the whole job. also no worries about holding gaskets up in place, or even buying gaskets for that matter. it's only metal after all so.......
neil.

 

[Swinger 340]

hey now, i do some of my best work from my back-- and there's a long list of ladies that'll attest to that.

Are your legs up in the air or laying flat?

 

[Swinger 340]

Or maybe the advice of those you mention is from some oldsters like myself. Can the pump be changed in the car? Sure. But it is usually just a patch on a worn out engine. If you are ok with a patch on a high mileage engine go for it. I'd rather pull the thing get it on a stand and start checking things out to know for certain what I have got. Nothing wrong with spending a couple hours to pull reseal and check everything over. I haven't found a small block with any miles on it that couldn't use a timing chain at a minimum.

A stock nylon gear set up yes, a dual set-up as in a 340 no. When inside a LA motor, I always change out the stock set up and install the 340 one. Good cheep insurance.

 

[Dale Davies]

I have a Magnum-based stroker and I will be replacing the oil pump in the coming weeks. I have a engine hoist on hand and two engine swaps for this car under my belt but none since the 4spd conversion (not sure if this is better or worse)... but frankly, I'm just trying to figure out if I can do this with as little re-work as possible.

I assume that the motor will have to be unbolted from the mounts and lifted to clear the K member... Would this be enough clearance for the job? If so, can this be done without separating the motor from the trans?

Thanks for any tips.

Why? Is your oil pressure low?

 

[Best of 3]

It's just a small block. Pull it out get it on a stand. Go nuts. It'll be better in the long run.

 

[4mulas]

It's just a small block. Pull it out get it on a stand. Go nuts. It'll be better in the long run.

I also agree with this A lot!. Even though I said it could be done in the car etc, I actually just pulled mine to change the pan. Seeing as I had it out I changed the rear main too as it may have had a slight little drip….

I was so happy to see the bearing were new and the story of my motor being new and never used (mopar crate 402) come together with proof (shiny bits, cross hatch, new bearings, the right number stamped in the crank counter weight). Inspection may also be another advantage of removing it all together

and ofcourse, a fresh detailing is also an added bonus of pulling it!

good luck with whatever you choose.