Car running hot would it be a good idea to switch to HHR fan?

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skep419

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I have a spal 16", 2360, straight blade, puller, VA18-AP6-41MA with a shroud. I have a stock mechanical water pump, 50/50 coolant mix, 35 total timing, 20lb cap summit radiator, 180 stat with 3/16 hole drilled. The car runs around 200-205 and wont cool down even at highway speeds.

Swap to 160 stat?
High flow water pump?
Water wetter?
Would the HHR fan cool better? part #15817306
Anybody running one?
 
definitely would like to see what the suggestions are. Im running a clutch fan with shroud 180 stat and 34 total timing. i have a 40% gycol shell, 60% distilled water plust water wetter. and im running at the same 200-205. i want to be max at 190
 
Hottest day ever sitting in traffic max 190 would be so nice. The HHR fan is rated at 2700 cfm. I only have 3 1/2" to work with between the water pump and radiator. The HHR fan is 4 1/16 so the radiator support would have to be modified.
 
In this type of weather I doubt it will stay 190 all of the time. It's going to climb especially in stop and go traffic. I have been down this road before. My cammed up, bored over, hot little 360 wasn't staying cool enough in the summer times. All I had was a 3565 cfm puller electric fan and I was seeing temps in the 210 range. If you get down to the math a 360 will require over 4000 cfm to keep it cool.... I can't remember where I read that but it was in a car mag. My rememdy was chuck the stock two core radiator I had, bought a Griffin aluminum radiator with the large cores. This automatically induced much more coolant and water into the system. Next came a shroud with a mechanical fan no clutch involved. The shroud directs the air directly onto the block and heads of the engine.... that's its purpose. This helps out a bunch because the air isn't going in all directions but directly where it is needed the most. I installed the electric fan on the front of the rad and converted it into a pusher just in case I need it. I have not needed to hit the switch since I installed the rad, and shroud. I still hit 190 in stop and go traffic but I don't worry about it because a bored, hot running engine is going to run hotter than a normal daily driver motor anyways. Running down the high way and running on the warm side indicates that there isn't enough radiator capacity. Not enough water and coolant... that's what I was told by a old timer radiator shop owner anyways. Griffin has some nice radiators if you can swing it. I bought the shroud and it bolted directly to the Griffin without a bit of trouble. The temps dropped dramatically in the engine bay as well as in the cabin of the car.... it was amazing what a radiator can do and the proper capacity. Some might not agree on any of this but it worked for me!! I was having a serious vapor lock conditions, hard to start after the motor has been run. Good luck
 
Not sure if you spotted the pics above but my radiator has only a couple mm of room on either side. Biggest mamajama I could order from summit that would fit between the fenders. It could be its knockoffisity causing the poor cooling but capacity should not be an issue.
 
just judging by the picture of your current fan set up, it looks like atleast a third of the radiator is not being used. As in the shroud covers up a great deal of the surface area of the radiator. If the car doesn't cool while driving down the highway it leads me to believe either the radiator is not efficient enough, or its the lack of airflow thru it. When driving down the highway you will have more than enough airflow to keep it cool even without a fan. I would put money on the current shroud causing your problem. Just my 2 cents.
 
i'm in the same boat as you. i only have like 5.5-6 inches from water pump to front panel. my radiator i have now is 2.5" which only gives me 3.5" to play with. not much out there for limited space.
 
Vent holes would help tremendously for the highway issue, but it would effect the fans performance when idling or stop and go driving. I think the bigger hhr fan would work nicely.
 
Would there be a way to make a flap so at hwy speeds it opens up and at stop signs it sucks shut?
 
Hey Sam, I know why your car is running hot.....you are always doing burnouts!!!!!!!!! :toothy10:
 
Vent holes would help tremendously for the highway issue, but it would effect the fans performance when idling or stop and go driving. I think the bigger hhr fan would work nicely.


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I think its the same size fan just pulls more air.
 
Would there be a way to make a flap so at hwy speeds it opens up and at stop signs it sucks shut?
For sure. The be cool dual fan setup on my swinger has that exact thing. You could make a few large cut outs in your shroud on the passenger side and attach some sort of rubber sheet to flap out while driving and close when stopped.
 
Hey Sam, I know why your car is running hot.....you are always doing burnouts!!!!!!!!! :toothy10:

Isn't that what they are built for?
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSYOdYjDZNA"]YouTube- Mopars in the park 2010 burnout contest 69 Dart GT[/ame]
 
For sure. The be cool dual fan setup on my swinger has that exact thing. You could make a few large cut outs in your shroud on the passenger side and attach some sort of rubber sheet to flap out while driving and close when stopped.

something like this
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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icjB6wx499k"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icjB6wx499k[/ame]

used spal fan ebay $50
shroud custom $20
 
I didn't look at the pics that hard last night but you need more air flow that's for sure. I bet a funnel type (stock) shroud would do wonders. The fan in the top post would do it I bet. I gave up on the electric fan and install a mechanical fan. I just wanted to drive my car and not have to worry about over heating. Whatever horsepower I lost by installing the fan so be it. It's not a drag car anyways. lol
 
I've been reading up and it seems that 80% are running a clutch fan
 
Have you checked your spark plugs to see if you are running the correct fuel mixture ??

Too rich or too lean can cause your engine to overheat.

Also have you thought about wrapping those headers?
 
I just had the car chassis dynod the A/F is dead on. Header wrap would be a pain in the :bootysha:
 
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