Rusty's right and so am I. You are confusing the ports.
Number 1, disconnect the Vcan
Then,with the gauge on the MANIFOLD vacuum port you use Rusty's method.
Then with the gauge on the sparkport; It should read little to nothing.
Then you can reconnect the Vcan.
This my dad used to call "timing it by ear". He got away with it cuz he used to burn "hi-test". We don't have that available at the pumps anymore.Keep in mind this gives the engine the idle timing it wants. BUT the power-timing still may need adjusting.
You say"currently i have it set at 44-45 with vacuum ports blocked off and idle at 2k/2.5k i use timing light." This is not right. Idle-Timing is never set at 2000 rpm with the ports blocked off, on a street car. The timing is always set with the Vcan defeated, and, at any idle rpm below that which activates the centrifugal system. This is usually below 1000rpm (but not always). In your case 600 to 900 should be fine.
-Then the power-timing is checked, still without the Vcan.This is done by reving up the engine to an rpm where the timing no longer advances, and reading the amount of advance. This rpm usually (but not always) falls between 3000 and 4000 rpm. The amount should be 32 to 36 degrees. If it's not in this range we will have to figure out how to make it so.
Methinks you didn't re-read post #17. Or if you did, you didn't understand it. And if that's the case,then don't be shy to say so. At one time,I didn't know anything about this stuff either.
So I'll include it here and amend it as required. From post #17,then;
I think that idle issue may go back to the T-port sync-up/late idle timing issue.
The T-port sync-up is done with the carb on the bench and at curb idle, with the choke off. Flip the beast upside down and observe the transfer slots.You will be searching for them in the throttle bores,right beside where the mixture screws enter. You will find one slot in each primary bore. They are about 20/25 thou wide and maybe an eighth inch long. When you find them, put the carb back on the curb idle screw/choke off. Now look at those slots under the throttles. They should be just about square. Make them so, using the curb idle screw. Then, check the secondary throttle blades;they should be all the way closed but not stuck closed. Then make sure NONE of the blades have holes drilled through them. Then bolt it back on.
IDLE-TIMING
The number one thing is to defeat the v-can for a while.Put it on the back-burner of your mind.
For now only,that is for now only,engine running transmission in Park,loosen the dizzy hold-down bolt and rotate that dizzy; till the idle speed stops increasing
and the vacuum at the manifold vacuum port reaches a maximum,
and the vacuum at the sparkport falls to zero/near zero,
The idle speed should now be in the ballpark of 600 to 900.
Adjust the mixture screws to about 2.5 turns out, or whatever it takes to get a smooth,steady idle quality.
Now, if the idle speed is not reasonable, as in too fast, then one of two things is going on; 1) the engine is sucking air somewhere or, 2) the timing is overly advanced. If the idle speed is too slow(not likely), you will have to introduce air somewhere else than the curb idle screw. This is called giving it idle-air bypass.Like the PCV, or by cracking the secondaries. The point is to not move the curb idle screw too far from the T-port sync-up, but to control the idle speed with timing or idle air bypass.If you just need a 1 turn of the curb-idle screw ,take it.
Now, heres the thing.This is an idle timing adjustment only. AND its ballpark only.
The power timing HAS to be adjusted next. If you take it for a boot,set like this, and all your skirts end up in the pan; I dont want to hear about it.
You can drive it like this using gentle throttle opening rates. If you hear the dreaded detonation rattle, Your not being gentle enough.
POWER-TIMING
And from posy 3#;
Next check your all-in centrifugal advance(power-timing). If its more than 36* or so, you will have to limit it.If its less than 36*, maybe you can steal a few more degrees from the idle-timing. say you have 32*all in, and 18idle. By increasing the all in 4*, to 36*, the idle-timing might go up the same 4*, to22*. Sometimes (often) The dizzy has to be modified to hit both points; the idle-timing and the power-timing. We can talk about this later.
Do what you gotta do. The all-in has to be limited to what your fuel will support.If 36* knocks at above say 3500 and never goes away, then 36* is too much for the engine/fuel combo. If 34* knocks below 3200 but is ok above 3500, you will have to slow the rate of advance. If 34* doesnt knock down to 2000 rpm, perhaps you can speed the rate up.All this tuning is done with the V-can defeated. This is power timing full-load/WOT timing only.
Once the above is set, drive it for a few hours. Get to know her. Make adjustments in small increments, as may be required.
VACUUM ADVANCE
Now, its time to hook the Vcan up to the spark-port, and tune it.Inside the hose nipple,
way down inside is a tiny allen socket screw. IIRC it's a 5/32.This screw can be adjusted to bring the advance in sooner or later. Adjust it to bring the advance in as fast as the engine will take it without knocking. The screw is captured and cannot be removed. When it gets tight dont force it, it is at the end of its travel.I forget which way is what. I think CW is slower, but not sure at all.
Sometimes its a bit of a balancing act between initial idle-timing and the Vcan. When its right the low-speed operation will have a very smooth strong torque delivery, as opposed to a kind of on/off feeling to it. Since you've been driving it for a few hours without the Vcan, you will be able to tell pretty quick what Im talking about,once the can is hooked back up.
Now go have some fun.
Once you get the timing sorted, you may be able to lean out the low speed and cruising circuits some.
CONCLUSION
So go get that done and let's see what your dizzy is doing. We want to know what the Power-timing is when the Idle-timing is properly set up. Then we'll figure out how to marry them.
