Centerline wheel Pro Drag - Air leaking out of wheel - DAGNABBIT!!!!!!!!!

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partsmonsta

partsmonsta

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15 x 3 Centerline wheel - Air leaking out of wheel :BangHead:

Thought this would be an EZ fix by removing the factory epoxy they put between the 2 wheel sections. Used my tried-and-true Permatex gas tank sealant epoxy to do the trick, but they STILL LEAK.
It is not the tire, the beads do not leak. The tire valve does not leak.
So where is it leaking? Out of the lug nut holes? Or the center oval area? Baffling.
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Really wanna keep the wheel, since it is in excellent cond. and also small bolt pattern Mopar.
I was thinking of using the green goo crap out of desperation. I hear it is tuff to clean out of the wheel, but I really don't care at this point. Tired of having to air up the wheel every 2 days. :soapbox: Any suggestions appreciated.

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I agree with AL. I had to run tubes in mine when I ran them years ago
 
Dont wanna install tubes. Gotta be a way to seal them. Drivers side is sealed, no inner tube.
Great suggestion, though.
 
If you are running light weight front runners it could be the stampings on the tires leaking. We were having a pressure drop problem with race tires without tubes. The tire guy told us to rub the inside of the tire down with " Dawn dish washing liquid Regular " Mount them and get them warm. They never went flat again. We just did a set for the Demon and we had to put them on the valiant we bought because the one Valiant tire kept going flat. Spray them up with soapy water and let them sit see where the foam up. Usually at the stampings in the sidewalls you will see them foam/suds up
 
Oldmanmopar said:
If you are running light weight front runners it could be the stampings on the tires leaking. We were having a pressure drop problem with race tires without tubes. The tire guy told us to rub the inside of the tire down with " Dawn dish washing liquid Regular " Mount them and get them warm. They never went flat again. We just did a set for the Demon and we had to put them on the valiant we bought because the one Valiant tire kept going flat. Spray them up with soapy water and let them sit see where the foam up. Usually at the stampings in the sidewalls you will see them foam/suds up
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I'll give it a shot.
Read about this before but forgot about it. :rolleyes:
 
RAT ROD AL said:
What about those things they used to call inner tubes ?
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Guy that runs our Speed Shop was sponsored by Mickey Thompson.
He hit them up for tubes for all his tires and they told him that tubes were required as safety requirements by the sanctioning body, but the tires are manufactured to be run without tubes.
 
First thing I would do is air the tire up to about sixty pounds, cover it with soapy water, and see where the air comes from.
For the air to be leaking out the lug holes, it has to be getting past the wheel halves seal.....
 
The racing Centerlines were not for the street or tubeless tires. They will be stamped on the rear whether they are DOT/street approved or not and whether they are for tubeless tires or not. The racing rims again were designed to be run with tubes...
Contact Centerline for advice, they made the wheels.
 
All the ones I've ever seen that were the real race wheels had "Must run tubes" or some such stamped in them SOMEWHERE.
 
Honestly, since you said, you dont know where it leaks..... I'd find out where it leaks....every two days is bad enough that you should be able to find it.
 
I’m asking my brother what he uses on the split mag rims they run on the vintage F1 cars. I remember splitting some rims with him last summer and we used some “glue” when we bolted them back together…

Edit, here’s a pic. we use less than 20 pounds of air for the tires. But the car will run up to 180 MPH on some tracks like Road America / Cota, 140 over the crest at Laguna Seca…

Here’s a pic and let it dry for at least 24 hours…



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MoparLeo said:
The racing Centerlines were not for the street or tubeless tires. They will be stamped on the rear whether they are DOT/street approved or not and whether they are for tubeless tires or not. The racing rims again were designed to be run with tubes...
Contact Centerline for advice, they made the wheels.
Click to expand...
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I think I'm just gonna get some tubes. F - it!
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33IMP said:
First thing I would do is air the tire up to about sixty pounds, cover it with soapy water, and see where the air comes from.
For the air to be leaking out the lug holes, it has to be getting past the wheel halves seal.....
Click to expand...
Already did that, tire and stem are totally sealed. It is leaking out of the wheel.
Not too thrilled about pumping any tire up to 60lbs., so I brought it down real fast. :wtf:
 
Scody21 said:
I’m asking my brother what he uses on the split mag rims they run on the vintage F1 cars. I remember splitting some rims with him last summer and we used some “glue” when we bolted them back together…

Edit, here’s a pic. we use less than 20 pounds of air for the tires. But the car will run up to 180 MPH on some tracks like Road America / Cota, 140 over the crest at Laguna Seca…

Here’s a pic and let it dry for at least 24 hours…



View attachment 1715959374
Click to expand...
Believe it or not, Permatex gas tank sealer is much better. I have sealed off leaky Radiators with it, with the steam pouring out. I have sealed gaping holes in freeze plugs with it. The **** is amazing. Rut roh, I said a cuss word, here comes our Facebook FABO Patrol!!!
 
MoparLeo said:
The racing Centerlines were not for the street or tubeless tires. They will be stamped on the rear whether they are DOT/street approved or not and whether they are for tubeless tires or not. The racing rims again were designed to be run with tubes...
Contact Centerline for advice, they made the wheels.
Click to expand...
Just for shitz and giggles...HOW MANY OF YOU GUYS RUNNING CENTERLINE DRAG WHEEL FRONTRUNNERS ARE RUNNING TUBES????
NONE, that's how many. Nobody wants to add another 10lbs to their front end.
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partsmonsta said:
Believe it or not, Permatex gas tank sealer is much better. I have sealed off leaky Radiators with it, with the steam pouring out. I have sealed gaping holes in freeze plugs with it. The **** is amazing. Rut roh, I said a cuss word, here comes our Facebook FABO Patrol!!!
Click to expand...

Depends on the materials that are trying to be sealed. That 832 has a high temp range and easy to clean up. Just looked it up. The rims for the F1 cars have to get split each winter for crack checking cert per FIA rules.
 
I've found a roof sealer that works incredibly well called Through The Roof. It's a clear, brushable sealant and it works fantastic. It seeps into cracks and cervices very well. You might try something like that. Just a thought. I would only try something like that if you do NOT find on the wheel that they require tubed. I'm beginning to think that may be what you have.
 
Two pair of 15x3 1/2 centerlines, no tubes. But I don't run drag fronts, just street tires.
Got a pair of cragar supertrick fronts too. Those HAVE to have tubes, and I don't use em on the street.
Three pair of big rear centerlines, two pair of moderate sized rears. One large pair needs tubes, but that is all on the tires, they bleed air like a colander.
 
My wheel was leaking out the bolt holes, because the sealant between the 2 halves had failed. I dug it out and the cleaned it with a wire wheel on a drill, and then resealed it with a silicone sealer.
 
I had some brand new Weld Prostar skinnies and 1 kept leaking air. Turns out it was the weld. Sent it back to Jegs. They gave me some grief as it had been 9 months but I explained it was a manufacturing defect and just wanted to swap it. They did it. Could be the weld between the 2 halves.
 
66Valiant528 said:
I had some brand new Weld Prostar skinnies and 1 kept leaking air. Turns out it was the weld. Sent it back to Jegs. They gave me some grief as it had been 9 months but I explained it was a manufacturing defect and just wanted to swap it. They did it. Could be the weld between the 2 halves.
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Cragar supertricks were the original two piece (racing) wheel. They were bolted together, and leaked like a sieve. Centerlines were a refinement. Better manufacturing techniques, riveted together, and a sealer for the two halves.
Almost everything else, including Welds, are welded now.
 
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