Cheapest place for torsion bar removal tool/clamp?

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Well, me and two other people could not. But it came out with the tool.

My Challenger was sold in Utah and eventually came to me in California after having been in Florida for some. It needed most of the floor, both rear frame rails, part of the left front rail, part of the torsion bar crossmember, both quarters, and half of the hardtop structure replaced due to rust. The original bars were installed when I replaced them with 1.12” bars.

If you can get it out with one of those cute little clamp tools, you can get it out with the LCA.
 
Well, me and two other people could not. But it came out with the tool.

Must have been doing it wrong! ;)

If anyone wants to buy mine, I’ll sell it. $20 plus shipping. It’s an unnecessary waste of tool box space, just so you know ahead of time.
 
Must have been doing it wrong! ;)

Just like you say is the magical way. Nothing is so magical it works every time. One Duster a friend and I had to snatch it apart with a Ford 8N chained to the K frame because the torsion bars were so rusted into the mounts. At that point we had literally tried it all. The tool, your way, a torch, and finally I got the tractor out. Since we were parting the car out, the damage we did to the body didn't matter. lol
 
I guess I just don't understand the stuck torsion bar thing ? I'm 60 and have changed so many I can't count.
I have lived in Ohio all my life and talk about rust if the clip was still there the tangs were rusted off. After digging the rusted clip out then scrap scrap scrap the rust from the back of the crossmember squirt some oil on it, loosen the LCA from the K member and clamp vice grips on a piece of rubber around the Tbar and smack it once and it comes out. Very seldom do I need to smack it 2 or 3 times.
 
Just like you say is the magical way. Nothing is so magical it works every time. One Duster a friend and I had to snatch it apart with a Ford 8N chained to the K frame because the torsion bars were so rusted into the mounts. At that point we had literally tried it all. The tool, your way, a torch, and finally I got the tractor out. Since we were parting the car out, the damage we did to the body didn't matter. lol

If you say so. If the bar needs that kind of effort to remove its junk anyway, torch it and drive out the hexes with drift and a sledge.

Like I said, $20 and shipping to anyone that wants mine. I’m 100% confident I’ll never need it, so it’s still a waste of money for anyone that buys it.

I guess I just don't understand the stuck torsion bar thing ? I'm 60 and have changed so many I can't count.
I have lived in Ohio all my life and talk about rust if the clip was still there the tangs were rusted off. After digging the rusted clip out then scrap scrap scrap the rust from the back of the crossmember squirt some oil on it, loosen the LCA from the K member and clamp vice grips on a piece of rubber around the Tbar and smack it once and it comes out. Very seldom do I need to smack it 2 or 3 times.

Yeah I don’t get it.

I would also never use vice grips on a torsion bar I intended to use again. Ever. They do fail from surface damage, usually with a bang. No thanks. But if it’s destined for the scrap heap, what the heck.
 
Thanks a million to all for the input.

So I don't think I'll ever reuse my stock 318 torsion bars...but I do agree with not gouging them if possible...so a piece of garden hose or some other kind of rubber along with a vice grip sounds like a good (free) tool solution. I'll try that first.

jacked up right side of my 76 duster /6 car and left side torsion bar snapped into...wheres best place to get a set of stock /6 bars? figured thay come as a set??

Define "best."
Best quality bars? Upgrade? OEM replacement? Cheapest price?

Were are you located if your anywhere near me I would lend you my tool it’s about 20 years old and beat to hell but it makes removing stuck bars real easy.

Thanks! I'm in CT...not quite a short enough driving distance. :D

My thinkin is if you think 40 bucks for a good tool is too much, then maybe you should be collecting Hot Wheels.

Lol...Oh, internet forums.
As someone who usually throws money at a problem and later figures out how I could have done something much cheaper, I thought it was worth an ask. If I had a nickel back for every dollar that I've spent on tools bought for one particular job, I'd buy everyone a beer. :D

Oh...and I do collect Hotwheels too!
 
Oh...and I do collect Hotwheels too!

I have a small collection myself. Worth nothing I am sure. I only grab the ones that appeal to me. I am just a tool nut. After decades in the auto repair business, I cannot help it.
 
Getting ready to remove a kmember myself and having never done it I will opt for the tool. Who knows, maybe it will get used a couple of times. I always find that the right tool for the job always works in my favor.....

JW

Do yourself a favor and by some 5/8-11 all-thread - about 6" long, some matching nuts and washers. This will help you line everything back up when you re-assemble. They thread into the K-member bolt holes and keep everything aligned until you get the K-member close enough to use the regular bolts.
 
I've had cases where I didn't need the tool and some cases where I did...

It's good to have the tool when you need it.... [that's what she said... :D]
 
Bought a large cable clamp at a logging supply store, worked great. A lot less than 40 bucks and did no damage.
 
Take off the upper control arm bumpers first. They do keep some tension on the bars. Then loosen the lower control arm nut. Remove clips at the rear of the bars. Pry the Lower control arm to the rear. The bar will come out. The removal of the upper control arm bumpers is the key.
 
Take off the upper control arm bumpers first. They do keep some tension on the bars. Then loosen the lower control arm nut. Remove clips at the rear of the bars. Pry the Lower control arm to the rear. The bar will come out. The removal of the upper control arm bumpers is the key.

I always just separate the spindle from the lower ball joint. Pull the shock, drop the tie rod end and the spindle off the ball joint, disconnect the sway bar if you've got one, and take the nut off the end of the strut rod. It totally frees the LCA, no tension on the bar from any suspension components hanging on it, and the bar usually slides right out.

It sounds like a lot, but it usually takes me less than 10 minutes to pull all that stuff. It's what, two cotter pins and 7 nuts? Piece of cake. And by disconnecting all of it you don't have to worry about any of that stuff getting moved, just hook it back up and set it to the same ride height and you're good to go. And if you're doing a suspension rebuild, all that stuff has to come off anyway. If you're not, then all that stuff should already be in good condition, so it'll be fast.
 
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