shutudown4
Well-Known Member
I’m rebuilding my big block
What is a good oil for it?
What is a good oil for it?
Choice of oil
- Thread starter shutudown4
- Start date
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Lots of factors missing. Flat tappet or roller cam? Street or strip? Both? what's your climate like?
You should post this here.
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shutudown4
Well-Known Member
Sorry I DID leave out some very pertinent information
mechanical cam. Stroker 440 now
526 cid, 10.8:1 compression, .565 lift
6 quart
Los Angeles area
What about oil with zinc? Conventional oil
A straight weight? 30 or 40?
Thanks for your quick response
Shutudown
I like running an oil with Zinc already in the mix, although here lately, I've switched over to Motorcraft semi synthetic 5w20 and self mixed a ZDDP additive. I did that because of the lower viscosity. It's been proven to get the oil to the engine sooner on cold startup and (although splitting hairs) takes less HP from the engine with the lighter viscosity. But, be advised of two things. First, if you decide to use a ZDDP attitive be very attentive to the label. There are some out there......stupid as this sounds that have NO zinc OR phosphorous in them at all. This is the additive I use. I mix it in a bucket with the oil and then dump it in. The second thing to be advised of is, everyone will have a different opinion here. All your engine really cares about is the oil pan being full of something that will WORK.
ZDDP Additive
ZDDP Additive
Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
I only use conventional oil (non synthetic) 10W30 and add a bottle of zinc additive. Prime the engine prior to firing it up. 65'
IMHO
The viscosity will be dependent on the bearing clearances you set in your engine.
Tight and a lower viscosity will work great, loose and your pressure at idle and hot will be close to nothing.
My 150,000 on its last rebuild 273, if I use 30w (per the FSM) it will trip the oil pressure switch, 40w no problem.
The viscosity will be dependent on the bearing clearances you set in your engine.
Tight and a lower viscosity will work great, loose and your pressure at idle and hot will be close to nothing.
My 150,000 on its last rebuild 273, if I use 30w (per the FSM) it will trip the oil pressure switch, 40w no problem.
Cali? VR1 20W/50
I use Lucas hotrod oil in 10w30. Mai ly because the Napa right across the street stocks it for me. Plenty of other oils for old school motors with zinc out there if you have a brand preference.
Vr1 10-30 will do you just fine unless your clearance are looser 20-50.
You want to run a oil with zinc.
I run 10-30 vr1 in my 470, 12.8:1 mechanical flat tappet .670 lift with edm lifters & a 8 qt milodon oiling system
Is your mechanical cam a roller or flat ?
shutudown4
Well-Known Member
shutudown4
Well-Known Member
Clearance set to factory specs
Los area climate
I’m thinking 30w or 40w conventional with zinc
Sounds good?
Shutudown
Los area climate
I’m thinking 30w or 40w conventional with zinc
Sounds good?
Shutudown
shutudown4
Well-Known Member
Flat tappet
Engle
Engle
Stick with the multi viscosity. Also, I see no reason whatsoever for the 40w.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I would second the VR-1 20w50, unless your pressure is too high cold.
Personally, I run whatever I find in my garage. Currently running a mix of 10W40 diesel oil, with some old 50wt racing oil, added, for some zinc in the old racing oil.....and to use some of it up. I have a couple cases
Personally, I run whatever I find in my garage. Currently running a mix of 10W40 diesel oil, with some old 50wt racing oil, added, for some zinc in the old racing oil.....and to use some of it up. I have a couple cases
Save the light weight oil for your old lady's sewing machine.
15w/40 or 20w/50 for summertime temps. anything above 60 degs.
15w/40 or 20w/50 for summertime temps. anything above 60 degs.
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
VR 1 20w50 in my 340.
Valvoline 20w/50 racing oil in my engines since the late 70's.
Zero camshaft or bearing failures spinning low decks 6500 plus rpm
shutudown4
Well-Known Member
Every engine craves something different pending use and bearing clearances. My 383 Bee and 383 Forumula S run 10W30, 340 Dart and '64 dodge 440 run 10W40, Superbird and HP2 20W50
shutudown4
Well-Known Member
I just talked to my engine builder
Valvoline vr-1 convential straight 30w
For break-in
Then change over to same brand multi-weight 20-50w full synthetic
Valvoline vr-1 convential straight 30w
For break-in
Then change over to same brand multi-weight 20-50w full synthetic
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