cleaning and painting my block

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1930

1930

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Couple of things going on here that I have some questions about.

1- I just had the deck cut twice, its now close enough to where I had originally asked it to be, machinest did not do anything either time as far as cleaning the block, it was coated with WD-40 and now its coated with metal from the cutting and WD-40. Do I need to bring this block to someone again to have it dipped cleaned or should all this be going away when i do my cleaning?

2- Ive got some areas on the block that are still rusty, I guess that when the machine shop originally cleaned all the paint off there was alot of rust hidden. Im wondering if there are any special precautions I need to take before I spot blast some of these areas ( Outside block ) Its bare with the exception of cam bearings and freeze plugs.

3- Im wondering if I can paint the block with my epoxy primer, then topcoat it with a base clear, I know engine paint says high temp, Ive got aluminum heads so not planning too paint them and I dont see the block itself really getting all that hot? Dont want paint to flake off either though.

4- From what Ive read I just need too sand all the gasket mating surfaces with some 80 grit, get out my pressure washer, some soap and go to it with some scotchbrite pads and bottle brushes, then coat the machined surfaces with WD-40 again. Any other recommendations?
 
I would take that block to a machinest who KNOWS what he's doing..had to cut the deck twice and its still NOT perfect left all the metal shaving in the block..I wouldn't trust anything he DID!!!
 
Agreed, Find another mchine shop. Have then check the deck, The bore and the mains and hot tank it.
 
My cousin painted an engine with epoxy primer and base/clear about 10 years ago. Still looks great and not peeling. Like any other paint job, it's all in the prep.
 
1930 said:
3- Im wondering if I can paint the block with my epoxy primer, then topcoat it with a base clear, I know engine paint says high temp, Ive got aluminum heads so not planning too paint them and I dont see the block itself really getting all that hot? Dont want paint to flake off either though.
Click to expand...

yes you can use epoxy and bc/cc.

i've always used a single stage high solids urathane...

this is years ago.. this is epoxy primer and a utech high solids urathane.. think it was 3.1. of course they don't make it any more..lol
that primer/paint combo holds up awesome..

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here is the one we just did last year for jamies dart...

epoxy primer and utech high solids urathane...


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Seems to me all machining (and sanding?) should be completed before freeze plugs or cam bearings.

I used SPI Epoxy Primer and a single stage urethane. Cheaper and more of an engine paint look. I think you want to minimize the mil thickness so an additional layer of clear is working against you. But if you already have the 2 stage and it will hold up then I guess go for it.

My single stage paint discolored on the intake manifold crossover and the exhaust gasket heat shield where it touched the exhaust manifold. Other than that it's held up fine.
 
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use the color map.. this is color map number 410C5

i think its a little red compared to original, in certain light anyway. close enough to me.. no one has noticed yet. then i'm not going for OE correct anyway.. they would use a enamel anyway not urethane or BC/CC anyway for oe. hard to know for sure.. gonna be hard to find the chrysler color in my opinion.. the spray cans that mp sells is known to be way off what it should be...


if the exact "correct" color is that important to you this guy claims to have the correct colors but they are enamel. frank Badalson Frank Badalson Services


can try here too.. ENGINE ENAMEL-hirschauto.com
 
As others have stated I'd get it to a real shop and have it checked and cleaned. No sense in doing all this work and spending time and money on something you have to do over.
 
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Someone said on another thread ..........Quote : Another perspective and based on the opening post... If you really wanted it "RIGHT" you should have had the crank turned, indexed, and stroke corrected, the rods resized (so the lengths are equalized), and the block align honed, and machined on a fixture to square deck it..........End of quote

Not sure what he means on some parts, I did have the crank turned, it was cut/machined down for oversized bearings, ( is that what he meant ? )

Indexed. I googled crankshaft indexing and kinda get what it means, as mentioned Ive already had the crank turned down so Im assuming that going back and having other work at this point would prob. be hard to justify, sound right? Same with the stroke correction?

Im not building an Winston Cup wannabe but again I would like to do things right.

The block originally went to a fine machine shop, they were the ones that cut the cylinders, turned and balanced the parts, wouldnt they have checked the main bearing alignment?

The crank turns freely when installed. Ive read that as long as it dosent feel to bind that Id be good to go?

These people are good, I trust them, Im assuming if it needed doing they would have informed me and done it.

The guy that cut my deck only got that work cause he was closer, I thought it was less hassle for me but it turned out the other way. I wont bring him anything else.

Thats twice now Ive walked away with a less than desirable experience so shame on me. I did ask him about the filthy block and his reply was when they originally manufactured the blocks they werent too clean going together so I should just not worry so much about it. I knew that didnt sound right but Im tired of debating with people.
 
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