CenterForce diaphragm, and
Factory 340 disc straight from the dealer.
I tried the CF-II disc and it was a ripper allrightee, but I found it too harsh, in a streeter, (367 cuber), for a DailyDriver.
The 340 discs usually blow up before they wear out, but they give plenty of warning. They usually puke the springs out and start vibrating. If I wait too long the hub tears out. Occasionally she sheds her linings in patches.
I used to barely get one summer out of them, but I got older........ and became nicer to my stuff.
I really like the diaphragm.
But it does have a hiccup. Occasionally the flyweights stick or don't all return to the same place, and it vibrates just a lil. I mean just a lil. A blip or two in neutral and she settles right down.
One of the things I like about the diaphragm is this; As you may know, driving an A833 at very slow speed can be an adventure. With 3.91s and a 2.66low, your slowest speed is likely to be 5.4mph @700rpm. What do you do when circumstances require you to drive slower? Yeah that's right you toe the clutch. Just try that with a 3-finger 3400 PP.
The Diaphragm makes this a breeze.
The other thing I like is it's modulate-ability. Is that even a word,lol. Ok I hyphenated it; that looks reasonable.
Taking off in first gear, is not always a rev-it-up-and-dump-it, deal.
And I don't like when my car sounds like an old Mustang, slipping it out half of forever-time.
Lots of times you will be in a circumstance ,like in traffic, slipping that darn thing, and the diaphragm just makes it so easy.
I'm 67 now so this becoming more important,lol, than it was 15/20 years ago when I first installed it.
Edit:
You didn't say about your cylinder pressure or cam size.
If your engine runs herky-jerky at idle and in gear like they often do, a heavier flywheel tends to smooth it out a bit, as does retarded timing. My 367 has a 3.09x3.55=10.97 starter gear, and IMO it is barely adequate. I have run both lots more and lots less; but I like the 3.55s so the 3.09 was the best I could do. The problem goes back to slow driving. If your engine gets too jerky at 700rpm in gear with 2.66x3.91=10.40 (5.4 mph), the heavy flywheel will help tame it.
The other thing I like about my heavy flywheel, is it makes my combo a blip-it-and-go deal. At zero mph, I can blip the throttle to put a bit of energy into the flywheel, and then let the clutch out partway, which makes a soft launch. Then as soon as the car is moving I feed it clutch, and once it's out, I can feed it throttle, and you'd never know it was a manual trans. My engine will idle down to 550 in gear (4mph). It will pull itself across the parking lot an hard flat level ground.
This engine makes at or just over 180 psi, and runs a
[email protected] cam, and 14* of idle timing. I do this by retarding the timing from my seat with a dash-mounted, dial-back timing device, to about 5*. This softens the individual power pulses to reduce the bucking to ~500rpm, so I make sure the engine stays at 550ish.And the flywheel smooths it right out.
At one time, during the planning stages, I had the idea to try and run an aluminum flywheel, but when the engine worked so nice like this, I set that on the back-burner.That was 1999, and as it turns out, I just never re-visited it.
With the CF-II disc, and 295/50-tires tho,I recommend 1350 U-joints.