Clutch disc preferences for street driven small block 4 speed

[Rocket]

I have read many posts here about clutch choices. Many seem to prefer the center force dual friction for higher power small blocks. My small block 4 speed car will only be street driven with a stroker 416 in the 500-520 HP and torque range. It will be set up to handle reasonably well, have 3.55 sure grip and decent street handling tires. It will not be taken to the strip and have an accerlation style suspension.

My question is for a street driven cruiser, what type clutch disc material or set up wild you recommend based on experience? I hear some of the dual friction clutches grab very well but may not "slip" much so being a little grabby for around town driving.

Appreciate your comments and experience

 

[Abodybomber]

Bumpola....

 

[70DSTR]

I have a dual friction centerforce clutch in my 416 with 510 HP and 535 ft-lbs torque at the flywheel. I have 4.10 gears with MT ET streets. The clutch works great on the street but I have dead hooked at the drag strip several times and the clutch slipped. After each slip I had to re-adjust my clutch free play. Now after about 25 drag strip runs when I engage the clutch it sounds like sandpaper rubbing together and makes a whirring sound. It will still turn the tires on the street but not on a prepped track.

I am going to take it out and upgrade but I'm not sure what I'll put in its place. I think this is a great clutch for the street but not for me at the strip. It feels just like my old stock clutch. Same smooth engagement and easy clutch pedal (with the over spring removed).

 

[AJ/FormS]

This might not help you much,but here goes;
I have a 360, about 430hp, 3.55s and 295/50-15s, either BFGs or Cooper Cobras, OEM type, street suspension. I run the CFII pressure plate with a Mopar 340 disc. I found the Dual friction was breaking stuff.One input shaft, two diffs, 7290 joints. Plus it was a little grabby.But boyOboy, that thing stuck.A little hard to modulate when travelling on soft ground and slow speeds, ie slipping it.
I found the 340 discs are not very durable, and you may as well buy a spare. When abused (track use, with 325/50DRs) they tend to rupture the spring pockets and spit out the springs. They havent left me stranded yet.When the springs leave home theres a whole lotta shakin goin on. They usually give me fair warning.I made the clutch disc my weak link.When the U-joints go, youre walking. I put 1350 joints in the D/S and a 489 case out back. No more breakage.The 340 disc is very smooth, and takes a lot of parking lot/parade abuse. And that diaphram clutch is a real pleasure after the Zoom 3200# that I was previously running.Its been in the car for at least 10 years, and still barks the tires into 3rd.I think Ill never need to replace the PP.

EDIT; As to The grabbiness/modulation issue;
-Firstly, it was mild, but enough to be annoying enough to be rid of it.
- Secondly; it was only annoying with engine at or near idle, ie, when slipping the clutch out,trying to move at a speed that was below full engagement, and even more so on soft ground.I think grabbiness is not the right word. I think what was happening was the interplay of the large-cam idle, the stiffly sprung clutch hub, and the highway-friendly 3.55s. Heres my take;The 3660 pounds and the 3.55s and the 2.66 low all conspired to present a pretty good load to the clutch on the one side. And the idle quality due to the 292/509, was putting a pretty good input pulse into the other side. Then the stiffly sprung hub would transmit the pulses into the trans and out the back where it got transmitted into the chassis via the poly bushings out back. That Purple cam, at a c/r of 11.2 puts out some pretty strong pulses at idle.And the CFII disc is very good at transmitting them out the backside. Your BB will probably bark the tires on a crisp 3-4 shift.
-Thirdly;When I swapped the 2.66 set out for 3.09 set the issue was greatly reduced,and with 4.30s I didnt notice it at all.
-So, bottom line is; There is nothing really wrong with that clutch. It does its job really well. The PP especially. Its got well over 100,000 miles on it, and still is doing its job as well as the day I installed it, Despite severe abuse from time to time, and regular abuse that would have destroyed many an oem clutch.
--IIHO, I say try it.Whats the worst that could happen? If it gets annoying, you can just swap that CFIIdisc out for a CFI.Further more, if you are running a smaller cam or a bigger gear out back or rubber spring bushings, these are all more street-friendly.