coil voltage

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teringer

FABO Gold Member
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my car runs good but does anyone have a idea what the correct voltage should be at the coil + side with engine running ,with stock ign. I have 13.8v at the ballast pos side and only 9.6v on the wire to the coil if I unhook the + coil wire it will read about 1volt less battery voltage so is 5volt drop normal when running,1973 duster electronic ign. I have the plugs gaped at .045 could this cause the coil to work at max ouput. also I replace the coil with a new one but didn't change anything . could I be overthinking this?

many thanks
 
I would say "you're OK." You have to understand than on any ignition which switches coil neg, such as points, Mopar breakerless, or HEI (but not MSD) you have a series circuit.........

The battery..........through the resistor..........through the coil (the load) and to ground

Voltage at the coil will depend on the resistance of the ballast, the resistance of the coil, and the RPM because it will be switching on/ off faster or slower, so think of it like duty cycle.

And of course you have to measure it with regard to changes in charging voltage

Resistors vary, and they CHANGE with temperature and current. They are supposed to, which is why they are called a "ballast."

Coils vary and Chrysler used several over the years, plus, in this day and age, you might have an aftermarket replacement.

The answer? It varies, LOL

Three things that are VERY important for voltage, and for sensing / charging voltage at the regulator is to measure voltage drop TO the resistor. This voltage drop will be greatest with the key in 'run' but with the engine off, because the alternator / regulator AND the ignition will all be drawing current.

So the "key side" of the ballast (or the blue wire on your alternator on 70 / later cars) should be within .3V (three tenths of one volt) of battery voltage.

Easy way to check this is to place one probe of your meter on the high side of the ballast, or the blue field connector (with everything hooked up) and the other probe right on the pos post of the battery.
 
Well thank you for some piece of mind. I just looked to low to me ,the problem I've been chasing was in my new rebuilt carb, 1 barrel holley ,basically I just paid someone $259 to clean it. had to take it apart and put the gasket behind the acc. pump in right it was blocking the accelerator pump circuit. and the rubber tip on the needle /seat valve keeping sticking in the closed pos keeping the gas from going into the float bowl got to tap it with a hammer to get it to open!
 
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