The tricky area is the oil pan. As to the timing chain tensioner. Years ago I had to make the same decision and I had two conflicting opinions from two very smart small block mopar engine builders on whether or not to use a tensioner. I decided to use one, and I feel first hand reall world experience is the best. I will not use another tensioner. Took the motor apart to change pistons and the spring side guide was broken right at the pivot, the flat spring had fallen down below the bottom sprocket. It was not worn through. With small block mopars the cam/crank center lines make for a long chain. I put a billet sprocket and Iwis chain. the chain will die before sprockets. You can put a block of wood between the bypass nipple on the intake and the top center bolt boss. Then use screw driver.
I was told to use a gear puller to pull the bottom gear, with the harmonic balancer bolt in place, or a large socket. I don't want to use a tensioner anyway, I wouldn't know how to set one up right.
By the oil pan being "tricky", do you mean the gaskets that exist on the pan now and getting the permatex to stick to them? I was thinking a good way to approach this situation would be to buy a pan gasket set, use the arced rubber piece from it, then cut and clean the old cork gaskets from the pan all together to where the block starts, then cut the same sized pieces as the ones I cut off to replace those sections. Should that work if I use the Ultra Grey Permatex on both sides, and between the old cork and new cork gaskets, or is there something better to put on the old oily cork that would seal that area better?
Finally, do I put the bolts in from the bottom first? If so, how far should I tighten them before put the bolts from the front in? I was told to tighten them together, kind of tighten one a little, then go to an opposing side, tighten that one a little, and go around the cover like that, but it seems like I would need to get the bottom ones, the ones facing up, at least snug to get the other ones in. Is that right?
