Control arm camber bolt washer play Help Plz.

[rich006]

Reading this with interest as I'm about to rebuild my front suspension. What does "HH" refer to?

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

Did you yank really really really hard on the UCAs after tightening them? Did you put a washer under the HH?

I did not yank really hard no, not sure what this is referring to.

Also I just installed new split lock washers directly under the nut that ties down each camber bolt.

What does HH refer to? :coffee2:

 

[AJ/FormS]

HH is hexhead. Like I said earlier, you need to put a hardened washer under the HH, to pull the bolt out of the far-end eccentric to get it off the shoulder, and positioned correctly. Putting a washer on the nut-end, of a new aftermarket bolt, does nothing for this condition. The flats are just not in the right place; you have to put them in the right place with shimming the HH end.
Well, wait. I've been away from front-end work for 6 or 8 years now. Maybe they have corrected it in the interim.
If you get to taking it apart again, compare it to an original Chrysler bolt, and maybe you will see what I mean.

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

I apologize I am currently using oem bolt set.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

How about a pic of the bolt in question. You may just be really weak and need a mans arm for the tightening. Or just cut the shoulder on the bolt back.

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

Haha I do not think so these arms there is no doubt in them... Plus I used a breaker bar.

Cut the bolt back?

 

[Daves69]

....................

Cut the bolt back?

I believe the shoulder of the bolt is what is meant. File the flat .060" toward the bolt head to allow the eccentric to move further.

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

Just came up from under it boys....

Result....!

The idler arm..... Bushing is completely just going nutsO' sliding up and down giving play to the tires causing the quick jerks left and right....! Thanks for all your help. I really do appreciate the a body only fam. Putting in they're two cents.

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

Or is that bushing suppose to have that much play and slide up and down like that?

It is the only play I am able to find in the steering.

I think I got ahead of my self not sure that this might be the issue.

 

[67Dart273]

Should be VERY little movement/ play vertically in the idler. Any vertical movement allows the tie rod ends and the center link to change length as they move up/ down.

One way to see this easily, especially if you have two people, is to support the right side lower arm with a jack, and leave the driver side tire on the ground. Grasp the right tire firmly and horse it in/ out as if you want it to make a turn. If there's play there, you'll see it. Likewise, you can work the idler up/ down while watching the tire move.

 

[AJ/FormS]

It is not uncommon to have to shim the bushing on 68 and up As.the I-arm should have Zero movement in any direction except that commanded by the P-arm.The inner sleeve should be squeezed tight between the two brackets by the pinch-bolt. Zero play is not always achievable without mods.

Oem bolts for the UCAs are properly engineered,and I have never had to mod them,but the washer inserts loose their grip over the years, and the places where they anchor can get pretty chewed up when the pinch-bolt gets seized inside the sleeve, and guys get to sawing on them in an effort to remove them. .

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

FIXED THE positive camber with split lock washers - + adjustments

now on with the idler arm issue.

Okay so what do you guys recommend to fix this issue.
New idler arm?
New idler arm bushing?
Press the bushings in Some how?
Shim the idler arm bushing somehow? How?

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

Confirmed brought my son out there, idler arm at the bushing goes up and down moment (vertical movement) allowing angles to change on tie rods and center link -there is where I am guessing my "jerking" is coming from and making steering a bit dangerous.

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

Bump:::

 

[AJ/FormS]

Confirmed brought my son out there, idler arm at the bushing goes up and down moment (vertical movement) allowing angles to change on tie rods and center link -there is where I am guessing my "jerking" is coming from and making steering a bit dangerous.

If the inner steel sleeve is fixed,as evidenced by the pinch-bolt NOT moving; then
A) if the idler arm is moving only vertically,as in sliding up and down on the sleeve, then you can shim it to stop that, with washers large enough to straddle the inner sleeve, but
B) if the idler arm is also moving in other directions besides vertically then it time for replacement.

Shimming it in the vertical direction, is a temporary solution: and probably only worth it if you're broke.

 

[72bluNblu]

Sounds like it's time for a new idler arm.

Firm Feel makes a roller bearing conversion kit for the idler arm. Haven't tried it myself, but I may soon...